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Farmall M Beginner 
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Joined: 29 Mar 2010
Location: KS
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 Topic: Allis Chalmers WD will NOT run HELP (UPDATE)
Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 10:48pm |
I got the WD timed again and I think I found why it doesn't run right, if you look at the video you can see a exhaust leak on the first cylinder and right above where the carburetor mounts also has a crack and is leaking.
I don't know if it matters but it was also blowing out some small "Flames" and sparks, I never noticed before but tonight it was getting dark and then I could see them.
Do I just need a gasket to go behind the manifold and then patch the hole,
or do you think this has nothing to do with it not running right?
VIDEO
Thanks for all the help
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Farmall M Beginner
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Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 10:53pm |
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Can't get the link to work, copy and past this link in a search.
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff47/JacksonFender/?action=view¤t=JohnDeereLARims007.mp4
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 7:58am |
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The leaks between the head and manifold shouldn't effect how the engine runs but, in time will erode the block and manifold surface so a gasket set might not do the trick. When I got a new manifold for my 45 the gaskets on the ends only lasted a month or 2 so I took the head of and milled it flat.
I don't know what is going on down below but you could have vacuum leaks causing a poor mixture. I would bet, if you replaced the manifold, that bugger would run better. I'm interested in knowing what others have to say. Should there be a plate over that square opening? Is it for preheating as in a duel fuel tractor?
I don't think I would drive her in the hay barn like that. LOL
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Dennis(IA)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: IOWA
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Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 8:13am |
If the engine runs better/good at high rpm and runs bad at low idle, you have a vacuum leak. Of course, if the timing is set right and the carb. is in good working order. Spray carb. cleaner on the crack/suspect leak area with the engine running, if it runs better or gains rpm, you have a vacuum leak.
Also, repair the exhaust leak to prevent damage to the manifold or head (acts like a cutting torch). Dennis
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Gary in Texas
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Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 9:55am |
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We had a problem with the WD not running right. Sprayed carb cleaner around and found the rear (of the 2) intakes was sucking air. Smeared some silacon around it , let it set up a couple hours, started it and runs like a top. So have ordered a new set of gaskets for the manifold and will pull it off and check the manifold when the gaskets get here.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 10:38am |
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Dennis, I doubt any spray-able liquid would have a chance to get in the leaks if he has them with all that fire coming out. It might get a little hot on your nozzle too. In the video it sounds like it runs as good slow as it does faster, it just doesn't open up to full RPM when throttled up. I just wonder if it could be sucking exhaust back through the intake manifold but with all that blue flame the fuel mixture probably wouldn't make it to the cylinder before burning up??????????
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ALinIL
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Location: Frankfort, IL
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Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 12:55pm |
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You definitely need at least manifold gaskets. When you get manifold off, check on surface plate. If it has cracks, I suggest a new manifold as that one has seen better days. Your IGN timing seems late. Also by the movement of the throtle you have a problem with a bind in linkage or the govermor needs attention.
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Matt MN
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Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 1:54pm |
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It sure seems more like late timing or Governor issues. It appears when you move the throttle it does not rev up.
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Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!!
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Farmall M Beginner
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Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 2:08pm |
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I removed the throttle linkage and I tried to rev up the engine by hand and it still would not throttle up? so I don't think it is the governor? I'll pull off the manifold and see what I find.
Thanks for all the help and info
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Tedin NE-OH
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Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 3:24pm |
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On the magneto rotate all the spark plug wires one position. Try one direction and if that does not work go the other direction.
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hillmonkey
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Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 4:20pm |
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i think ted is on it. could have backfired on the last shut down from the leaking manifold and be off timing 1 tooth. once you get the manifold fixed rotate the plug wires as ted stated and one way or the you will be able to get it back in the timming adj. range.hm
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 10:22pm |
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It's not gonna be as picky as say... a modern motorcycle, but I'll state my opinion that having a leaking exhaust manifold DOES cause it to run less-than-optimal... the cylinders don't scavenge well. If it was a high-performance machine... lots of valve overlap, etc., then it'd REALLY suffer, but as-is, it'll just be a little out-of-breath.
The stark reality usually is... that if it's leakin' exhaust that bad, good chance it's not sealing on the intake side very well either... and you just MIGHT have a crack in a runner there somewhere.
I've taken manifolds off, put 'em in the mill, and milled off an eighth-inch to get 'em nice and flat. I've done same to cylinder heads, then put new gaskets on, and had 'em running nice.
I'm thinking that your ignition timing events still aren't right... off by one tooth on the magneto, or some silly thing like that. When it's RIGHT, the magneto sits fairly straight up and down, and it's pretty happy to throttle up, even if the mixture is a little lean.
Provided you don't have a cracked intake-side, I'd keep focusing on ignition, and once it's properly timed, then move to manifold leaks, then check valve lash.
Another thing- the mixture screws on the carbeurator- if you've been messing with adjustments, read up on the carbeurator- they may not be doing what you're thinking they do... and if you've had the carbeurator apart, read up on the extra passages, because they don't exactly do what you'd think.
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JeffMOnt
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Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 10:22am |
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If you have a belt sander you can level out the manifold as long as the block is straight and you don't take off to much metal that will cause the flanges to warp.
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Reeseholler
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Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 1:12pm |
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Off subject, but what are those steering wheels called? I used to know and now I forget...
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hillmonkey
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Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 2:46pm |
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reese, are you talkin about a "suicide knob" on a tractor steering wheel???? hm
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Reeseholler
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Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 7:00pm |
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No. It's a type of steering wheel that if the front wheels whip one direction, it breaks inside that hub and keeps you from getting steering wheel whip. Then when you turn the steering wheel it locks back in so you can steer. It's that big hub that you see right in the center of the steering wheel. I can't think of the name for the life of me.
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 7:27pm |
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Oh- you mean a breakaway clutch or safety-hub. Works on a pretty simple principle... two plates that fit fairly close together, forced together by a spring. There's a half-round 'raceway' cut in the flat face of each, and in three spots, there's smaller holes drilled through crossways. There's a ball-bearing in each hole, so the clutch plates WANT to stay together, but if the shaft spins hard, the clutch plates will separate and the ball will roll 'tween the two (in the groove), so that the sudden torque won't be transmitted to the operator's hands. These are great for demolition derbies and off-roading Jeeps.
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Reeseholler
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Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 7:29pm |
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That would be it. I was going to get one for my Farmall but didn't see paying 65 bucks for one. I just wanted to see if it worked or not. I wish I could remember the company that made them.
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Farmall M Beginner
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Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 8:39pm |
The brand of the one on there is "Kosch" "Steering Aid" made in Nebraska. I found this one on eBay for one dollar. here is the link http://cgi.ebay.com/KOSCH-MANUFACTURING-TRACTOR-STEERING-WHEEL-MASSEY-/360358522828?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e70aafcc
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Reeseholler
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Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 8:41pm |
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That's Right! Kosch.... I wonder if that would work on a farmall?
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 15 Apr 2011 at 5:25am |
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Anyone with a lathe could make it work on anything...
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