Allis Chalmers WD will NOT run HELP

Hello, all.
I am new here and I am hoping someone here can help.
I have a Allis Chalmers WD (not sure on the year) that was running great, I was using it to plow the garden and then I went out the next day and it wouldn't start? I got my "Reversed" WD45 and I tried to pull start it and it would try to start but just back fire and the second I stopped pulling it, it would quit.
I completely cleaned out the carburetor and I put in a NEW rebuild kit and it still does the same thing. I then removed the magneto and replaced the points and condenser, then I took the mag to a friend that has a shop and he tested it and it is good.
I then re timed the tractor and it will start but it will not throttle up and it runs really rough. Here is how I timed it.
I took off the cap and put the notch gear (on the mag side) pointing "UP" and I put the "C" pointing "DOWN" and put the cap in place. I then rotated the engine (by crank handle) until the #1 cylinder just started to blow out air. I then slowly rotate the engine while someone else watches for the "TDC" mark on the flywheel (not the firing mark) until it is dead center with the mark on the bell housing. I then rotate the mag "BACKWARDS" (counterclockwise) until the notch is in line, and the I slowly rotate the mag backwards a little more until I here the click of the points closing. I then carefully set the mag in place. I then hook up all the spark plug wires in the order of 1243 and I place the wires on the mag going clockwise starting at the "TOP LEFT".
I can then get the tractor to run but it will not throttle up and it runs very rough.
I took a small bottle of propane and let some in to the air on the carburetor and the tractor RPM did not change.
If any one has any ideas of what I am doing wrong PLEASE PLEASE let me know.
I have been working on this for about a week and I bet I have timed this tractor over 50+ times and it still runs the same way, I even took off the throttle linkage and tried controlling it by the carburetor and it would not throttle up?
Thanks for you time 

Just a guess, You may have fouled out some plugs. I accidentally switched two wires on my WC (same engine) and it ran terribly.  It seems that you have all of the extremes covered now you just have to look at the littler stuff. Also like Charlie said you may have something clogging your fuel system.

My 37 WC did the same thing and I feel bad for not being able to help anymore. All I did to mine was switch the plug wires and take the fuel line off and blow it out with an air compressor and it ran fine.

I hope this helps a little.


Edited by AllisChalmers37 - 10 Apr 2011 at 12:36am

On ANY internal combustion engine, before jumping in and swapping parts, drop everything you're doing, forget everything you're thinking, and go BACK TO THE RECIPIE FOR INTERNAL COMBUSTION.

If you don't, you'll be crapshooting, not troubleshooting.

For Internal combustion, you MUST HAVE:

Air... with sufficient oxygen to provide a burn cycle.  Over 18% oxygen.  Don't assume it's getting enough or proper air- if you do, you'll go to next steps and NEVER find the answer.  Most of these buggers have oil-bath filters... make sure they're not full of ice... or tar... or bugs... or...

Fuel... something adequately combustable.  Don't assume your gas EVER is... and don't assume that just because you've taken some particular action, that the fuel or fuel system is actually conveying it properly.  I usually eliminate the fuel system by spraying in a shot of something somewhat flammable during cranking, and see if it POPS.

COMPRESSION.  Don't assume you have enough.  Doesn't take much, but valves that aren't comin' closed aren't closed enough.

Source of ignition.  Just 'cause there's a blue spark on the plug when you've got it out of the hole, doesn't mean it's strong enough to fire a cold, rich mixture, particularly under substantial compression.  One silly trick I do... is warm up the spark plugs with a  propane flame for a few seconds, then put 'em in... if they're fouled, this usually clears most of the foul and will let 'em fire enough to let you know they're alive.  And as Charlie noted, some plugs... some brands, models, and sometimes just the set... suck.

THEN... a way out.  Plugged exhaust ain't conducive to a running engine.

And FINALLY... Synchronicity.  It has to happen in a proper sequence... with proper timing.

Once running, any problems running PAST that point, are related to some combination of either air, fuel, compression, spark, or exhaust... or timing.

Troubleshoot- Don't crapshoot.  You want to get rid of trouble, not wind up with a pile of crap.

Oh, and Herman's law of Empirical Evidence:  If you do the same test sequence over and over again, you SHOULD get the same result.

What this means, is if you keep doing it same way over and over, expecting a DIFFERENT result, you're on the wrong track.  Go back to the recipie!!!



Edited by DaveKamp - 10 Apr 2011 at 1:29am

Thanks for all the info, I will start trying different things today.
Here is a video of it running, sorry for the poor sound it is really windy here in Kansas.
http://s240.photobucket.com/albums/ff47/JacksonFender/?action=view&current=AllisChalmersWDVideo2001.mp4
Thanks again

I did rotate the mag while it was running and that was as good as I could, It is like I run out of adjustment?
Thanks

Remove plug #1 and bring the piston to TDC on the compression stroke, then remove the cap from the mag and see where the rotor is pointing. You might be off a tooth on the mag gear. Bob

If it was running good the day before, did you check to see if you were getting enough gas? filter could be plugged, shut gas off , take sediment bowl off then turn gas on, should be a good even flow. Been there done that, more than once.. John

Wait a minute. Wait a minute. If your WD ran fine the day before, and now it won't start the next day, its gotta' be something simple here. If you cranked on it, fouled a couple plugs, and now it runs like crap, the first thing I would do is toss a new set of plugs in it. All this work your doing with timing and such, doesn't make sence to me if the Tractor was running fine the day before. Its gotta' be something dumb. We always go to the worst senerio before checking the easy stuff. Stick a new set of plugs in it first and double check you firing order. Its something simple here....

Steve@B&B

I think Steve and Bob might be on to something. Throw those Champion plugs away and put AC Delco, Autolite, or NGK in their place. Like Bob says, a sticking valve would show up on a compression test.

On Yesterdays tractors I read your post as having it timed to the fire mark. Static timing is to TDC  not F on the flywheel. From watching the video I would say it sounds like it is out of time yet. I also agree with throwing out Champion plugs.

Just don't get frustrated with it yet. Some of us might be just about as frustrated as you. Let us know when she runs good again. Charlie