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AC 180 injection pump removal

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corey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote corey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: AC 180 injection pump removal
    Posted: 07 Mar 2011 at 7:47pm
Hi. I'm new to the forum. I was wondering if anyone knows a trick to remove injection pump from allis chalmers 180 without removing the radiator. I havent started taking it off but it doesn't look like enough room between rad and engine to get a puller in there to pop the shaft out of the gear after the lines and mounting nots are removed. Thanks for any advice.
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HagerAC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HagerAC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2011 at 8:08pm
You do not need to remove the gear on the drive to remove the  pump.  You just need to line up the timing marks in the window,Be sure to turn the engine in the direction it runs (clockwise from front) to get the correct timing on account of gear lash.  and then remove the three nuts that mounts the pump to the front plate.    Once the three nuts are removed the pump will just slide back and the shaft will slide out and will remain in the engine, and the pump is now off.  You will need a special tool to hold the shaft seals in place when you install the pump again.
30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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corey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote corey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2011 at 8:42pm
Sounds good. Thanks. Wheres a good place to get the tool from?
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Butch(OH) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butch(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2011 at 8:56pm

I have never had that seal tool, it isnt neccisary, just handy. The seals are kind of like umbrella valve seals and the rear one can be flipped inside out if your not kinda carefull how you slide the pump over it. Just takes a little care.

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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2011 at 9:45pm
On a 180, take the ex manifold off then leave the lines on pump. Makes it a lot easier than trying to get the back lines off and on.   MACK
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2011 at 10:14pm
If you remove the six exhaust manifold bolts, you can lift the manifold and muffler up high enough to rest it on the valve cover out of the way.
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DougG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2011 at 4:05am
That seal tool helps a bunch + a little oil  ,it just compresses the seals enough to slide the pump on ,  Capital Diesel in Holts Summit Mo  has them for $11.50 ;
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KevinON View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KevinON Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2011 at 6:05am

Can you get them at any diesel shop?  I have a couple to do, and it would make the job much easier. 

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injpumpEd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2011 at 6:25am
Yes Stanadyne # 13371, but I haven't seen it as cheap as above. It's around $25. We have them in stock for our customers to purchase or borrow. Ed.
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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corey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote corey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2011 at 8:42pm
Thanks for the tips. Lots of helpful info on this site.
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