Update.We got the tractor out!

How did you get it in there in the first place? It appeared to be hooked up to something?

Now the fun begins!!!

I went back and watched the video again, and I am not sure the brakes aren't locked on, it doesn't apear that the brake pedles are in the released position like they should be, but I couldn't really see well.  There is a cam inside the frame that holds the brakes on, when pulled into place, just double check that.

I`m wore out!!!!!

ON the initial pull from the Tahoe I seen the rt wheel roll a bit then stop,like it was in gear with clutches not released.Would make sure trans is in neutral then it should roll irregaurdless,however,if there is water in trans/rearend it may be frozen causing "locked" situation.You could pull the rear plate off the back of differential housing to get a better ideal what is free and what is not.Since it's been setting out for so long the back end may be full of water and have rusted/froze internal parts.Trans and differential share housing/lube(water?).You can pull the shift tower off the top of tranny for a look inside too.

In the video you said you were going to take the wheel off to look at the brake. No need to take the wheel off. It won't help get at the brake. Take the brake cover off just inside the fender on the top of the differential housing.2 bolts and you can see the brake mechanism.
I guess I miassed Orange Bloods reply about the brake cover.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 07 Mar 2011 at 10:49am

I really enjoyed the video. I see you have a son who will most likley get the tractor bug also. My wife has also been drug all over the country and into remote locations for tractors.

Might just find the shifter slipped out of rails and locked trany in two gears. Might be why someone left it . Pull the shift lever out of tower and allign the rail with long screwdriver or bar.

After setting out for 10yrs it may have water in the tranny,brakes,rear end that is now frozen into a giant icecube.And after 10yrs I would bet the engine is full of water too!!!

Edited by RSponenberg - 07 Mar 2011 at 4:13pm

Great work!  It looks to be in good shape.  Looks to have plenty of rear weights.

that young man standing and holding a taut cable with that much tension on it was not too smart.if the cable snapped it could have been instant death.that winch had to have had at least a 100:1 gear reduction or better...

ain;t this sum fun chit!!

well, I've done everything I know to do but can't get it to play

Whole time I'm watching I'm wondering where the extraction tractor is hehehehe. Great find and good luck.

Most of the questions posted, were already answered in Sagar's previous thread.

You get my applause for the successful extraction, but I'll HAVE to step on the box and give you a stern warning here...

When a cable breaks, that's a warning sign you SHOULD NEVER ignore.

Draft cables are incredibly dangerous when broken... especially long ones.  Why?  Because they're elastic, and have considerable mass.

Whenever using draft cable, ALWAYS lay blankets, jackets, or large segments of wood or log-chains over them at regular intervals to keep the cable from whipping out and cutting you in half.  They WILL.

Next- never use a draft cable of a length longer than absolutely necessary for extraction.  If you can reach it with 8' of cable, don't move the winching point 40' away, because you're allowing a longer segment of elastic material.  At a given load, if it stretches 1/8" per foot, at 8', that's one inch of stored energy.  At 80', that's 10 inches... an impressive amount of jump with that much stretch.

Next, when a cable breaks, it's because you're asking more of it, than it can safely handle.  This means double up the cable, or triple it... or more.  You should never find yourself in a situation where an extraction move should bring a cable within 1/6th of it's yield strength... ever.

I WILL give you great respect for wrapping the cable around the tractor, and then clamping it.  Many times, people use extraction rigging that, when failure occurs, will send broken hooks, clevises, etc., through the air at Mach 1.  When one of those fragments hits a person, it passes through with essentially no change in velocity, and leaving behind a very gory, and terminal result.

In my opinion, there is no better, or safer method for extracting a tractor, than using a similar or larger-sized tractor with a 3-point hitch.  Use the hitch system to LIFT the drive wheels of the incapacitated machine, even partially, and then roll it out on it's front wheels.

And next time- remove the wheel weights.  Wheel weights and other ballast give the tractor an incredible amount of grip on the ground... whether it be for pulling a load, or lifting something in the loader... or keeping you from dragging it up out of a 5' deep gully.  Once knocked loose, they can easily be chained to the back of the tahoe and dragged out somewhere to safety.