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wd needs some ponies |
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ScrapIron ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Mar 2011 Location: beech grove Points: 4 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 05 Mar 2011 at 12:06pm |
i have a wd that i use only as a pulling tractor (competitive). been working on it for 4 years now and got it to hook up good now i need some more hp. any one know where i can get some cheap. i put a d17 motor in it. thought about going to a 4 1/2 bore but dont know any where to get them.
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myallis ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 25 Oct 2010 Location: Lansing Area MI Points: 34 |
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I don't know what you consider cheap... but I just sold 2 for 800 a piece and have another one. I am in Michigan though. If interested 5177197443
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ScrapIron ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Mar 2011 Location: beech grove Points: 4 |
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What all does that come with. ( what else will I need to buy) other than block work
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wi50 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 24 Sep 2010 Location: weegieland Points: 1010 |
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burning fuel makes power to burn the fuel though you need airflow, to get airflow you need a shortblock to pump it, and the necessary work on the induction system (head, cam, manifold, carb) to support the requirements.
So the first question you need to ask is what will the rules allow for speed groundspeed and engine speed. How much of an engine do you wish to run and at what speed, 226 inches at 1700 RPM, 400 ar 2000 RPM, or 300 at 5000 RPM, each is going to require a different setup. The second question is what can be done to support what you wish to do.
A bored and stroked shortblock is useless if you have a poor induction system.
I've got a set of rods and sleves, pistons to make good power with minimal work and money if you wish. But it's nothing compared to the power you can make if you open up the checkbook.
So, get decent compression in the engine, stock at 7.5 or 8 to 1, there's pretty good gains made when raising it. Then head work, manifold work and carb swap/modifications will help. Edited by wi50 - 05 Mar 2011 at 3:35pm |
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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wi50 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 24 Sep 2010 Location: weegieland Points: 1010 |
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I just put togather an engine for my dad to pull a little bit. I didn't want to spend much on it so I used a set of overbore WD pistons and sleves in a Gleaner E engine. I did a little machine work to the top of the pistons to get the compression where I wanted it, in my case I wanted 11 to 1 to 11.5 to 1 range. Other than that, it's nothing special, standard parts.
A WD used a taller piston to make up for the difference in stroke from the 4" to 4.5" stroke crankshafts. Putting them in the longer stroke engine required a little machine work.
I did do a fair bit of work on the head, manifold and carb though. I had a cam ground and then changed the cam timeing to what I wanted. Edited by wi50 - 05 Mar 2011 at 4:21pm |
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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ScrapIron ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Mar 2011 Location: beech grove Points: 4 |
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I ported the manifold and have a bigger carb. I'm doing it in steps. I was thinking now I need the cubic inches. Then once I get the size I want then have the head, cam, and carb built to the motor.
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wi50 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 24 Sep 2010 Location: weegieland Points: 1010 |
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that sounds good,
for example a stock Allis D17 or Gleaner E head will flow around 120 CFM in stock form and the maximum valve lift is just over .400 where it does it. A stock manifold of D17 type will flow about 114 CFM. With the carb neck bored out and the radiuses flared back above it, it will flow better, the amount depends on how extensive the work is. The next choke point is the radius where it bends to go twards the head. If one does enough work, a "stock appearing" manifold will not choke the head at any point.
With some proper work on the cylinder head the airflow can increase quite a high percentage. For example at lower to mid lifts it can be near doubled from stock. Maybe the maximum isn't doubled but the total amount available to the engine throughout the valve cycle is increased a verry high percentage.
But it's going to come down to the carb, what it is and how well it's matched to what you need.
If you are looking at doing it cheap, there's some lesser priced ways to get engine displacement, but none of it is cheap. You really need to decide how much work and money you wish to invest. It may end up being a simple rod and piston swap to get some compression, maybe an offset grind on the crank with a rod swap, or a full blown build that will end up being several thousand dollars.
It only costs the difference, parts are parts and don't go part way once if you want to go all the way in the end, it just ends up costing more doing some things twice.
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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mlpankey ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Vols country Points: 4580 |
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stroke it and get some piston speed so you can have good velocity at low lift and rpms. For torque at low rpms raise the compression to 14 or 15 to 1.
Edited by mlpankey - 06 Mar 2011 at 7:40pm |
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Dipstick In ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Remington, In. Points: 8602 |
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mpankey or wi50,what compression ratio do you wind up with a 45 crank and flat top WD pistons? Will it be in the 10 to 12: 1 area?
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You don't really have to be smart if you know who is!
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mlpankey ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Vols country Points: 4580 |
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around 9.1
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Dipstick In ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Remington, In. Points: 8602 |
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Thanks Mitch, that would still be enough squeeze for me to burn LP gas efficiently though I think!
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You don't really have to be smart if you know who is!
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ScrapIron ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Mar 2011 Location: beech grove Points: 4 |
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I think what I'm going to do is buy a 4 1/2" bore this year and next year (even if I set this year out) go to a 5 or 5 1/2" stroke. Then do the carb, manifold and head to suite that size motor. Because if I start with the carb, manifold and head they will drown the motor I have now right? (d17 motor) if anyone has or knows where I can get a 4 1/2" bore kit and a 5" or 5 1/2" crank I would appreciate the help. Is 800 from myallis a good price for a 4 1/2" bore kit
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