pulling pistons for sale, other parts

 

I have 4 new pistons to sell, Keith Black hyperutectic alum, KB9907HC-030 I had to buy a set of 8.  Rings for 4 cyl are also included.   They are $200 for a set of 8 and a typical set of decent rings is $65, I'd sell the half set of rings and 4 pistons for $125 shipped, or trade for some other parts you may have and I may need.

 

Specs are 4.155 bore, 1.565 comp hite with a 5cc dish, .927 pin floating or press fit, so there are keeper groves machined in the pistons.  I am unaware if they come with snap rings, locks or nothing. 

 

I went through some of my old Allis stuff and had some spare parts to use up, to make a little engine for some 3.5-5 mph classes here. Useing a nice used set of 4.125 sleves simply bored .030 over, this doesn't cost much, typically $15-$30 per sleve depending on your machine shop.  I made my rods to be 8.5" long with the Allis berring and this gives me 12 to 1 comp.  or I may trim a few more CC out of the bowl to drop it to 11.25 to 1 in a cheap and simple bolt togather engine.   Origianlly was going to go for a 9 to 1 engine on pump gas but for the little actual use it will see, I'll buy a few extra gallons of good gas for it a year.  I bought a locked up E engine, a few new parts and a cam grind, some ford valves, head, manifold and carb work and for well under a thousand bucks out of pocket and a bunch of time I should have a good running engine to sit in the shed and never make it to a pull.

 

For an easy and cheap little engine you could use the above pistons and rods from a Massey Harris 33 which are 8.312 long to start with, nice strong little rods with a 2.25" crankpin.  With these rods you can offset grind the crank just a bit and offset the wrist pin in the rod end if you wish to get in the range of a 9.5 to 13  : 1 compression engine depending on how much you offset the wrist pin, head gasket used , etc.  I know these rods are on hand at the local tractor salvage yard but I don't know how many.  I can supply them if you wish for whatever they cost me, I think $35 each.  I've offset wrist pins in the past, simply drive out bushing, make a steel plug to press or slip fit in the wrist pin bore of the rod and chamifer.  Weld in place and re bore the hole, not a lot of work and can be done in a matter of a few hours if you have access to a lathe and mill.

 

I also have a new valve service kit for a D17, new intake and exhaust valves, guides, springs and keepers.  $100 shipped. 

 

New set of 4.125 bore sleves for 201-226 engines at $65 each or $250 for the set, shipped. 

 

 WD45 exhaust/intake manifold.  Non threaded outlet.  It is in verry nice condition and I set it in the mill, surfaced it,  bead blasted and painted with John Deere exhaust paint  $70

 

 

Also a set of 4.56 forged Venolia pistons, 1.1 comp hite, 1.094 pin.  I'll have to dig them out and see what's left.  They've been abused but made a lot of trophies on the wall.

 

Also have a spare cam ground, 3 bolt gear on front, 11 tooth oil pump gear.  228 duration intake,  228 exhaust, 110 lobe seperation .330 lift.  It's not going to work well (or at all)  in any kind of speed regulated classes. $150

 

I also think I have a few 4 cyl GM HEI ignition units left.  I cut them down, use the allis distributer gear and it makes for a good ignition system.  I'll dig around and see how many I have left and what new parts, advance kits, etc.  It's been 10 years since I made the last one so my memory may be lacking.

 

It's going to depend on the size of your engine and cylinder head, manifolding and carb to weather this cam is a good choice.  I run a cam with just a couple deg. less duration useing an big Zenith updraft carb with a 2.25" throttle plate on a 270 cid engine.  At 2000 rpm the engine will fall on it's face , at 4000-5000 it's \ strong.   Our rules changed now so I had this cam cut thinking I was going to use a 500 cfm downdraft for better torque at high RPM but I never made the manifold and tried it. 

 

I'm working on an injected 370 cid deck plate engine, and makeing a billet roller cam for this one so I'm not useing the cam, it's been in the works for a while and now and then I get an urge to make some more parts for it