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Machining allowances for flywheel on 160
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Fellenz View Drop Down
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    Posted: 17 Nov 2010 at 1:56pm
Hello,

I have the clutch apart on our 160 and it looks like we'll have to resurface the flywheel and intermediate pressure plate before we replace the discs. I have the I&T shop manual but it doesn't list any of the machining allowances so I'm unsure how much I will be able to take off.

The flywheel also has cracks on the surface, I will take a picture and post it soon but was wondering if this is usual and something that can be taken off by resurfacing or if it may be a more serious problem, the cracks are all small and do not appear to be deep at all.

Also I see that the manual references disc lining kits, I have not called the Agco dealer yet so I'm unsure if the kit is still available but was wondering what is involved in relining the discs and whether or not it makes sense to do this myself or have it jobbed out.

Thanks,

Erik
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Brian Jasper co. Ia View Drop Down
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Heat cracks, or "checks" are pretty common on just about any cast iron flywheel. I can't say how much you could remove to resurface, but on my D17D flywheel, they took .012 off to clean it up. They also took .012 off where the pressure plate mounts to keep the distance from the friction area to the plate the same.
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Depth mic from the pressure plate mounting surface to an unworn area of the clutch driving surface. Keep that dimension after machining. Whatever you take off the driving surface you have to take off the pressure plate mount surface. Heat cracks are pretty common.
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Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

Depth mic from the pressure plate mounting surface to an unworn area of the clutch driving surface. Keep that dimension after machining. Whatever you take off the driving surface you have to take off the pressure plate mount surface. Heat cracks are pretty common.


Yes, I am aware that the flywheel needs to be matched machined. What I'm looking for is the minimum allowable size (thickness) for the flywheel. I know when I did the clutch on our 180 there was a size range that the flywheel had to kept within, a range of about .032 IIRC, I need to know if the 160 has a similar range and what the minimum allowable size is.

Thanks,

Erik
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Originally posted by Fellenz Fellenz wrote:

Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

Depth mic from the pressure plate mounting surface to an unworn area of the clutch driving surface. Keep that dimension after machining. Whatever you take off the driving surface you have to take off the pressure plate mount surface. Heat cracks are pretty common.


Yes, I am aware that the flywheel needs to be matched machined. What I'm looking for is the minimum allowable size (thickness) for the flywheel. I know when I did the clutch on our 180 there was a size range that the flywheel had to kept within, a range of about .032 IIRC, I need to know if the 160 has a similar range and what the minimum allowable size is.

Thanks,

Erik
 
 
You may have checked already but it may be stamped on the flywheel somewhere. 


Edited by TexasAllis - 18 Nov 2010 at 6:58am
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Fellenz View Drop Down
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Well guys I couldn't find a spec anywhere so I decided to take my chances and remove .010" 

I think it will work out fine. 
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I called our local AGCO dealer for some prices and it looks like they can get me the PTO clutch disk and the transmission clutch disk for a little over $100 each. I was also told that the lining kits are NLA so unless someone here knows otherwise it looks like that option is out and honestly seeing how the disks are pretty reasonably priced it doesn't matter one way or another to me.

Now I'm wondering if the pressure plate can be resurfaced like the flywheel or better yet if it needs to be? It is glazed like the flywheel was and is also worn into the shape of the disk, I think this may be a problem when I install the new disk but am unsure if the pressure plate can be re-machined and shimmed somehow or if I will have to live with it the way it is.

Thanks,

Erik
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I always have a pressure plate resurfaced when doing a clutch job and usually the springs replaced, as there is a lot of heat created in a clutch, and heat+age=weak springs.  Check the yellow pages for a good clutch shop.  They can usually reline your clutch, rebuild the pressure plate, and have you good to go in a few days.  The local clutch shop is all I use any more.  It's probably not saving me a ton of money, if any at all, but I know I am getting a good product and have someone to go to who knows something about it if I run into any problems.  If you can't find a place in your yellow pages, call a couple garages up and ask them if they use a clutch shop.  

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Rebuilder skim or grid that surface also on plate, but springs and fingers may have to be brought back into spec as far as height and pressure.
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Originally posted by Hurst Hurst wrote:

I always have a pressure plate resurfaced when doing a clutch job and usually the springs replaced, as there is a lot of heat created in a clutch, and heat+age=weak springs.  

Hurst

Thanks for reminding me about the springs, I'll make sure I add those to my parts order as the last thing I need is for springs to fail a few hundred hours after I put everything back together. 

I'll need to do some more looking at this clutch to see how I can compensate for the change in thickness when I resurface the pressure plate. I believe that there are stacks of shims that I can modify to make the adjustment but I'll check to make sure before I touch the pressure plate. 

Thanks, 

Erik
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