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New to me '39 B |
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Twinkie8907 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 30 May 2024 Location: Indiana Points: 18 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 16 hours 39 minutes ago at 2:25pm |
![]() ![]() Hi everyone, My wife surprised me with a new tractor. Right off the bat I have some questions, I tried searching the forum for some insight into them but did not have any luck. I believe It's a 1939 model B from the serial number. I think it needs a carburetor, I'm guessing those arent cheap or easy to find because the one that is on it has been brazed. Any insight on where I could find a replacement would be appreciated. My reason for this diagnosis is it will start but sometimes backfires before it does, it will rev up but has almost no power. It has a 60" yanmar/cub cadet deck under it and I never did get the deck fully spinning, killed the tractor twice trying. It will drive in ALL gears and does NOT pop out, when in 2nd or 3rd the speed varies as in the engine is struggling with the load. The other problem is the throttle linkage does not work correctly. It will throttle down but the lever wont make it throttle up, I have to get off and move the linkage by the carb manually. Wont lie havemt spent much time on this....I was till the engine fan tried to remove my finger(I'm fine, Pride hurt the most). I'm thinking I'm missing a spring. Thanks in advance, I might upload some more pictures if I can get it figured out. |
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Twinkie8907 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 30 May 2024 Location: Indiana Points: 18 |
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![]() Carb in question |
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85537 |
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front wheel / rims look like a 39... but has several "up grades" like the dish seat, alternator, distributor... and maybe the starter..
the only SPRING on the throttle is on the top of the governor at the front right corner of the motor... Your THROTTLE lever, should pull back and you can see an arm on the governor pivot rod rotate as you move the throttle.... there is a cross arm that goes to the left side of the motor, behind the radiator... that is pinned to the carburetor rod.. With motor off, push the throttle lever all the way forward, see that the governor arm PIVOTS and moves easily and the cross arm moves behind the radiator.. It should PULL the carburetor rod and open the carb lever to FULL FORWARD (open)... look where the problem is... what is not moving......... you can pull the pin at front left corner of motor and disconnect the governor cross arm from the carb rod... might be easier to tell what is moving and what is NOT at that point.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85537 |
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here are a couple photos that show the linkage...
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Twinkie8907 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 30 May 2024 Location: Indiana Points: 18 |
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Thank you for the info. Guessing im going to have to f8nd a used carb somewhere and have it rebuilt or rebuild it myself. As far as the "year" and upgrades the SN is B23207, which shows mid to late '39 according to Tractordata.com(yes I know not always accurate). It's possible it has a different transmission/rear end. It also have the foot brake kit in place of the original hand brakes(perhaps the reason for the seat?). I want one of those bigger bench style seat that has the backrest, I wonder if the brake linkages would clear, if not id imagine thats why it has this seat. 🤔
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85537 |
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your front wheels and transmission are from the 1939 model.. Someone could have added foot brakes to the unit. That happened often.. The BENCH seat will fit with foot brakes no problem. Many came that way for years. Someone added the bucket seat, they never came that way.. Original was a Magneto.. so the distributor and coil have been added or engine was changed. There is a sn on the engine also... early was on the top rear of the block where it bolts to the bell housing... Later the sn was on the flange on left side by bell housing.
Most carbs can be rebuilt with a new gasket set... Dont hurt to open it up and look.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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jvin248 ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Jan 2022 Location: Detroit Points: 421 |
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. If it had ethanol fuel put in it last you'll have a gummed up carb and possible rust. Most have a screen where the inlet tube is that gets plugged with debris. Float, needle, seat check. I've successfully used the harbor freight small ultrasonic cleaner on several carbs. I split them and lay open side down. Dawn dish soap and green/purple/orange cleaner and warm water. That can save buying a carb kit. Use recreational fuel the last tank in the fall before storing. Those fuel stabilizers don't work. . |
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Twinkie8907 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 30 May 2024 Location: Indiana Points: 18 |
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Thx for the info guys! That thread that Steve shared was especially helpful. From the pictures in that thread I think I diagnosed my linkage issue. The piece on top the govenor that has the spring attached to it is no longer attached to the rest of the linkage underneath it. I will try to post a picture after work today to make sure this is the problem. Thanks again for all the help.
As for the carb, it has been brazed at the fuel inlet, then someone stacked silver solder on top of the braze(second post blow the picture up)...I'm afraid if I try to take it apart it may never work again. |
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