This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
The Forum Parts and Services Unofficial Allis Store Tractor Shows Serial Numbers History
Forum Home Forum Home > Allis Chalmers > Farm Equipment
  New Posts New Posts
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login


7010 Powershift Question

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
CrestonM View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8391
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 7010 Powershift Question
    Posted: 01 Nov 2024 at 11:39pm
Hi guys, I bought a 7010 powershift yesterday, and this is my first powershift tractor. I test drove it and it's getting delivered to me next week. The seller stated to shift to High or Low range without gear grinding, he clutches and shifts to reverse, then it goes into either range very smoothly. I tried as he said, and it worked. In the test drive, I noticed the detents were very weak between gears, and it felt like I might be getting only 5 gears instead of 6.
I searched the forum for powershift threads and I've got an idea on what to check for the weak detents...the ball, spring, and comb behind the shifter valve on the side of the transmission, so I will check that out when I have the tractor in the shop. What I'm not so sure about is the range shift issue...from what I've read, the transmission "brake" is just oil pressure being applied to a forward and reverse clutch simultaneously to stop shaft rotation. I don't remember how much free travel the inching pedal had, but if I'm thinking right, there isn't supposed to be any free travel at all, correct?

What would shifting into reverse to stop range shift gear clashing signify? Would that indicate the reverse clutch pack isn't getting oil pressure when the inching pedal is depressed, but it is getting it when shifted to reverse, thus stopping shaft rotation?
Thanks for any advice!
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20528
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 6:31am
He has given you very wise and experienced operational advice. The Power Shift transmission has the same quirk as most all wet oil bathed clutches do......creeping or viscous drag of the lube oil, especially when the oil is cold. The transmission brake (if it is working and I assume it does ??? maybe not??) stops things from rotating, but sometimes there is still drive pressure against the shift coupling, making it difficult to get it out of (especially) LOW range. A quick shift to reverse and slight teasing of the inching pedal will then allow you to pop it right out of gear to neutral to go to HIGH range or PARK. When the oil is warmed up this is not an issue. With 6 wet clutches, there is a lot of drag with cold oil.     ***Rereading this, I don't think the trans brake is working at all, which would be a broken snap ring on the inching spool. Trans brake should stop the tractor pretty hard when the inching pedal is put clear down. The advice is still very accurate for cold oil operation and shifting the range lever.

Edited by DrAllis - 02 Nov 2024 at 6:35am
Back to Top
CrestonM View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8391
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 10:30am
Yes, I should've worded it better...without that trick of shifting into reverse, the range shifter will not go into gear due to the gear clash. I read on another thread either here or on YT that this is a common issue and the fix for that is a spot weld where the snap ring goes? I'm unable to find that thread at the moment, could you refresh me on what needs welded and where? 
Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20528
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 4:05pm
Power Shift trans valve has to be removed and torn down, at least partially. The missing snap ring in question commonly breaks. I just put a spot of weld in the snap ring groove and call it good. AGCO's update is a new spool with a threaded stud/nut affair on the end, if it is even still available.
Back to Top
CrestonM View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8391
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2024 at 8:32am
Thanks Doc, once I get the tractor I'll begin looking into this, and I'll probably be back with questions. 
Back to Top
Ed (Ont) View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 08 Nov 2009
Location: New Lowell, Ont
Points: 1290
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed (Ont) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2024 at 4:20pm
Hey Creston. This is off topic but how are you doing on the FE project? My friend has a 68 Mustang and he is building a ford 390 for it. Wants to get about 500 hp.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.129 seconds.


Help Support the
Unofficial Allis Forum