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HD6 Motor Mounts

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DieselBumpkin View Drop Down
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    Posted: 22 Jun 2023 at 8:03pm
I have a HD6B that I am doing a rehab on. I am putting in a 6000 engine, and while I am in there, I am replacing things like fuel lines and gaskets. I am having the radiator recored and retanked. The old core has a circular gouge in it where the blades hit or a stick was caught up in the blades or something. I don't want to take chances with a new core and have the engine rock or slide and have to go through this again.

I haven't been able to find even a mention of motor mounts much less anything for sale. What does everyone doing about motor mounts? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 2023 at 9:13pm
Engine front mount should be a trunion style which is behind the harmonic balancer supporting a bolted to the block bracket, or the engine front timing cover. The rear mounts should be on the flywheel housing. Both mounts will have rubber isolators incorporated and you may have to make or modify something to work.

The circular gouges you have are probably from a prior water pump losing it's bearings and the fan blade getting into the radiator core. Sometimes bad, sometime superficial and can be left alone. A good radiator shop can advise you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DieselBumpkin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2023 at 7:33pm
I am already having the radiator recored. The shop vatted and tested it, and it's time for a new one. I'm saving the old core and the tanks. The newest catalog that had the core in it was from 1990. It took a few calls for my guy to find one, but he did.


Sorry, I should have been more specific about the mounts. I am looking for the rubber isolators. The "new" 6000 engine came with about half the front mount, only the little trunnion portion (concentric with the hydraulic pump) and not the horizontal bar. Presumably, this did not change between the 344 and the 6000. It is a bear to see anything where the dozer is right now, but I probably have all the metal mount parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2023 at 8:43pm
I understand. Many call them "cushions" also so can get kind of confusing. In many instances you can easily make your own with a hard rubber sheet, or pucks from Mcmaster-Carr. They are not show in the Minnpar website that I've seen.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DieselBumpkin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2023 at 11:36pm
Thanks for looking that up. I dug in the parts manual myself, and it is #6 that I am interested in replacing.


I already picked up some gasket material from McMaster-Carr. I did the fuel filter washers out of the hardest Viton that they sell. I have purchased sheets of rubber from them in the past, but I was hoping for something a little more off the shelf. A few years back, I was looking into machining rubber and polyurethane for a similar project, and that involved a lot of dry ice and beer. It's nice when there is some part on the shelf that either does the job or can be repurposed/modified to do the job.
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DieselBumpkin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DieselBumpkin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2023 at 11:46pm
HD344/6000 stand and what I'm working with.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2023 at 7:09am
Having the vertical milling machine and a lathe will help you tremendously in fabricating anything you require concerning engine mountings. You'll like the HD6 once operational as you can get a lot done with them being not too large, and certainly not too small for most any medium task.

Easy enough to move behind a one ton truck on a gooseneck trailer makes them very versatile. Although modern CTL's have largely hurt their market share in the segment, a well maintained small dozer is still very prized among farmers in this area.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TramwayGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2023 at 10:28am
Those isolators look like Metalastik products to me:

http://www.missionsupplyonline.com/

Catalog:

http://www.missionsupplyonline.com/images/Trelleborg_AVS_IND_Product_Catalogue_0422.pdf

Edited by TramwayGuy - 28 Jun 2023 at 10:31am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DieselBumpkin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2023 at 11:12am
Codger,

This is a dozer that my dad bought long ago, and I am bringing it back to running condition for the reasons that you mentioned. He poured water in the cooling system, the water manifold cracked, and the dozer never ran again aside from a minute or two just to crank it. He had taken the water manifold to be brazed, and the guy threw the casting away. Someone else came along and took off the hood and valve cover and left the engine exposed for months. The rocker shaft is completely rusted, and the old engine is seized. What I would do to hear the sound of those energy cells again. The 6000 is going to be an upgrade, so I can't complain.


The milling machine has already been indispensable. I bought some lifting eye forgings from McMaster-Carr and drilled and tapped them on the machine. I have the engine lifted by some webbing around a boss behind the fan on one side and from the eye screwed into a head stud on the other side. It's holding up very well.


There are some threads on removing the radiator. On this unit, the radiator will not slide out the front any way that you try because it is wider than the grille. I was able to pull it out from behind without dropping the hard nose by removing a bunch of things. The fan and several brackets had to come out, the valve cover had to come off, and I had just enough room to tilt the radiator back and slide it up and out at an angle. I had maybe an inch of clearance and did not have to remove the water pump. When the radiator goes back in, I will have the old engine out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DieselBumpkin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2023 at 11:13am
Originally posted by TramwayGuy TramwayGuy wrote:

Those isolators look like Metalastik products to me:

http://www.missionsupplyonline.com/

Catalog:

http://www.missionsupplyonline.com/images/Trelleborg_AVS_IND_Product_Catalogue_0422.pdf
Thank you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2023 at 3:59pm
To access the radiator remove the dozer blade
remove the bumper. Remove the 2 bolts on the rear of the hard nose.
Loosen the front bolts on the hard nose. The hard nose pivots on the
forward bolts. Ther is a rachet holding the hard nose so you will
have to pry the rear of the hard nose away from the frame so you can pivot
the hard nose.

If you no longer need the exhaust manifold from your HD344 and if
it is in serviceable condition I may be interested in buying it
email George at 6cigol@gmail.com
good luck
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