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D17 Series IV PTO seal clarification |
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Rusty Allis
Bronze Level Access Joined: 16 Jul 2020 Location: Rhode Island Points: 150 |
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Posted: 23 Jul 2020 at 9:18pm |
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as if my manifold ordeal wasn't exciting enough
I have a pretty good drip from the PTO seal. after reading, consulting the AGCO parts catalog I have more questions than answers... I removed the PTO guard in an effort to see the seal #, which looks like a National 11012 (space) SW (I can't confirm the SW, so don't take that as gospel) anyway after pounding parts catalogs, I came up empty for that seal. the Allis seal 70241779 doesn't seem to have the nice felt ring the OE seal has (i'm assuming this is the original seal, there is orange paint on it) i'm looking at 17 in the photo here: before I move on, I should say I feel/see NO play in the shaft my confusion comes with some of the parts sellers saying to "double stack" the seals...I have done this in marine applications, but this seems like a cop out instead of getting the proper seal. so, my questions are: -is there a better seal for this? the double stack thing seems ghetto to me -is there enough room to double up on the seals? -the triangular seal retainer seems like it would pop out easy enough. I am assuming if I do that I will need the o-ring and I will lose all of the oil, correct? any input would be great, especially if I can find the seal with the felt on it |
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20900 |
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That's the correct modern day seal. Felt seals are obsolete. Two seals don't fit, so use one. Aluminum seal holder may need a tap with a hammer and you will lose 6 gallons of tranny oil if you don't drain it first. Drain plug above the drawbar directly down from the seat.
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tbran
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paris Tn Points: 3369 |
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Go back with the kid from "back to the Future" to get the felt seal... We have had 0 issues with the factory seal .. Never heard of double stacking this seal in my 50 years of experience. Head the tractor down hill as much as possible, take out the three bolts, put a clean bucket under the rear, pull out the Triangle retainer - if the splines will damage the seal when installed , pull the shaft - this will drain the front compartment as well - so get a biggger bucket or two, clean up the shaft, install the factory seal and oring, reinstall and fill the oil. Our guys do it in 30 minutes - lasts for years. No big deal.
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Acdiesel
Orange Level Joined: 15 Jun 2012 Location: Rochester Ohio Points: 2557 |
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13661 or 13651 either will work
Just install one seal Make sure your PTO shaft doesn't have any major wear or you may need to install a speedi-sleeve where the seal rides |
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D19 Diesel,D17 Diesel SER.3
2-D14, 2-D15 SER.II WF/NF D15 SER.2 DIESEL D12 SER.I, D10 Ser.II 2-720'S D21 Ser. II Gmc,caterpillar I'm a pharmacist (farm assist) with a PHD (post hole digger) |
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Rusty Allis
Bronze Level Access Joined: 16 Jul 2020 Location: Rhode Island Points: 150 |
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true what brand seal is that? I found a Ebay listing for a CR seal # CR13649...so are the 13661-651 seals you mention another option? I hope to call napa with either the seal #s you gave or the one I found and just get this done. Thank you for the confirmation on draining the oil...I thought that was going to be the case for sure. park down hill...F'n brilliant!! thanks for babysitting me guys, I really appreciate it |
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Rusty Allis
Bronze Level Access Joined: 16 Jul 2020 Location: Rhode Island Points: 150 |
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just to close this out...
my gut told me to drain the trans. glad I did, as there was a bit of water in the bottom of it. I have known this machine for 20 years, and it has always been inside, so it was a bit of a surprise. anyway I swapped the seal and as of now, all is well, drier than a popcorn fart. I see where guys would double stack the seal. even though the new seal is thinner than the original, the rubber rides deeper, the felt was there to keep crap off the rubber (or, hold it in I guess) anyway, that was a major leak solved, and I had 2 snap couplers for the loader that were leaking bad, so I replaced those as well. again, thanks for the help |
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ac45dave
Orange Level Access Joined: 23 May 2015 Location: SE(IN) Points: 1341 |
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Don, ya sure got to like it when plan comes together.
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54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors
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MACK
Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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I always kept a seal housing with seal and oring. Pull old off, slide new one. No oil to drain, just be quick. MACK
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D17Milo
Bronze Level Joined: 11 Dec 2017 Location: Milo,Iowa Points: 65 |
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Just changed the one on my 170. Make sure you drive the seal out in the right direction. Don't EVEN ask me how I know.
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Rusty Allis
Bronze Level Access Joined: 16 Jul 2020 Location: Rhode Island Points: 150 |
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Yea Dave, no doubt! Thanks for taking the time to chat with me the other day. i hope your ball joint project went well!
funny, I thought the same thing. in the end, i'm glad I drained it. all told, I bet there was about a cup of water that came out. thankfully it didn't whip it into mung...it was clear water then oil.
ooofff that stinks. usually seals have a shoulder to bottom out on. again, i'm glad I pulled this as the aluminum was a bit ashy where the PTO guard butted up against it. I cleaned all that junk off and shot the back side of the guard with some paint. |
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DSeries4
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7372 |
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anyway, that was a major leak solved, and I had 2 snap couplers for the
loader that were leaking bad, so I replaced those as well. The loader does not use the snap coupler. That is the bell shaped thing under the tractor that the drawbar clicks into. I think you meant loader cylinders.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Rusty Allis
Bronze Level Access Joined: 16 Jul 2020 Location: Rhode Island Points: 150 |
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yea, dunno. I've always called them snap couplers |
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Gatz in NE
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lincoln, NE Points: 1037 |
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they're called Quick Disconnects |
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Rusty Allis
Bronze Level Access Joined: 16 Jul 2020 Location: Rhode Island Points: 150 |
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learn something new every day. I just looked up "snap coupler allis" on g00gle and i'll be damned...it's a quick hitch system. oops |
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Lonn
Orange Level Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Назарово,Russia Points: 29782 |
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Around here they are just called hydraulic couplers and many say pioneer couplers. Pioneer is a brand.
Edited by Lonn - 27 Jul 2020 at 6:47am |
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