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djake 
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 Topic: new crankshaft in D17
Posted: 04 Feb 2020 at 5:17pm |
should I be able to turn the crankshaft by hand with everything back together? Rods connected, all bearings in and timeing gear in place with the crank gear. I really can't rotate it by hand trying to turn it at the crank pully. This is my first time on something like this so I don't know what to expect. Another issue is one of the rod nuts fell into one of those holes under the cam shaft and I can't get it to come out. Any secrets to getting it out. I think I would have to pull the cam again to get a magnet in there. I turned the engine over and still did'nt fall out.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 04 Feb 2020 at 6:38pm |
djake, Well I had to use a stick in the fly wheel bolts on my 45 rebuild. It was stiff, which I am not a good judge of, since I dont do a lot of engines. Sounds like you need to get that nut out of there. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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HD6GTOM
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Posted: 04 Feb 2020 at 7:20pm |
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Did you use some type of motor rebuild lube on the crank and rod bearings? I used STP on mine 30+ years ago after I tried to turn it over by hand and it would not turn. I had the motor out, layed it on its side, pulled the rod and main bearing caps back off, wiped them with STP and torqued them back down along with wiping the sleeves with STP. It was a little tussell to get it to start turning, but once it started turning it was easy after that.
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d17brown
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Posted: 04 Feb 2020 at 7:40pm |
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should rotate after each bearing is in so you can tell if it getting tight. you may have to plastigage the bearings.Check for clearences. Should have about .0015
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phil
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MACK
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Posted: 04 Feb 2020 at 9:00pm |
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No, with rods and pistons in you will need a bar. With just crank and mains torqued, you should be able to turn by hand. MACK
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 04 Feb 2020 at 9:59pm |
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Bare crank spins easily. Assembled engine turns hard especially with new rings/sleeves. No way you could turn by hand on the pulley.
Edited by SteveM C/IL - 04 Feb 2020 at 10:00pm
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nella(Pa)
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Posted: 04 Feb 2020 at 10:36pm |
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Just to be safe plastic gauge the main bearings to between .0015 and .003 and then lube them when putting the crank in. You should be able to spin the crank by hand at that point of assembly.
Edited by nella(Pa) - 04 Feb 2020 at 10:42pm
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JC-WI
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Posted: 05 Feb 2020 at 12:28am |
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Make sure all bearing are in correctly and the caps are oriented matched correctly too as they came off.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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nella(Pa)
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Posted: 05 Feb 2020 at 5:22am |
 nella(Pa) wrote:
Just to be safe plastic gauge the main bearings to between .0015 and .003 and then lube them when putting the crank in. You should be able to spin the crank by hand at that point of assembly.
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Also plastic gauge the rod bearings when you put them in.
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djake
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 3:38pm |
plastigauged the crank and got an 0.001 on one of the main bearing and a rod bearing. Would shims be a solution for that?
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 3:44pm |
Djake, I dont believe those were designed to be shimmed. .001 clear might work but it is near the low end and that could make it stiff. Maybe someone like Dr. Allis or Mack can comment? Did you get the missing nut found, and out? Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 3:52pm |
Was that measurement 0.0010? Or maybe something larger like 0.0015? You need to record the measurement to 4 decimal places. Which may mean that you have to interpret what you're seeing on the plastiguage.
If you are truly seeing 0.0010, then you'd use shims to get to at least 0.0015.
Warning: I'm a novice engine guy!
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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DrAllis
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 3:56pm |
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Which main bearing measures only .001" ??? When using plasti-gauge the bearing shells and crankshaft should be DRY, with no oil or grease on them. If it is the front or rear main that is tight with dry surfaces, you might try swapping around bearing shells and see if it changes. Is the crankshaft re-ground undersized ??? because that might get back to the person who did the grinding......
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 4:04pm |
djake wrote:
plastigauged the crank and got an 0.001 on one of the main bearing and a rod bearing. Would shims be a solution for that? |
No shims would not be a solution. Bores without the bearing in them are or should be round. If you shim the cap, all you are doing is adding clearance at the top or bottom of the bore and giving room for the bearing to spin inside the block.
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Boss Man
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 4:29pm |
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The engine rebuilder/machine shop I've used for years told me the only time you should shim a cap is if its a true babbit bearing. I would move the bearing around like suggested or return the crank to who ever ground it and have them polish it. That .0004 difference could shorten your bearing life.
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djake
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 4:41pm |
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I probably did the plasti guage with oil under the lower bearings. Think I will repull the crank, dry it and remeasure and move caps around if I have to.
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nella(Pa)
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 5:57pm |
djake wrote:
I probably did the plasti guage with oil under the lower bearings. Think I will repull the crank, dry it and remeasure and move caps around if I have to. |
Did you mark the bearing caps before you took them off so they are installed in the same place. Also, did you mic. the crank?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 6:25pm |
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YOU DON'T MOVE THE CAPS AROUND !! MOVE THE BEARING SHELLS IF ANYTHING.
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MACK
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 8:55pm |
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D17 have shims for Maines, but not rods. Are you sure rods are clamped to wrist pin according to manual, and pin is not against side wall, putting rod in a bind?MACK
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DrAllis
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Posted: 07 Feb 2020 at 7:22am |
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No shims on mains or rods on D-17/G-226 engine. WD45's have shims on the mains but not the rods.
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Dave H
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Posted: 07 Feb 2020 at 9:01am |
dang, I think I read all the posts and did not determine if the pistons are in or out when the rotation is binding. 
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djake
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Posted: 07 Feb 2020 at 6:31pm |
when I read the plasti guage do you read the crank deposit or the cap deposit. It seem the cap measure is about 0.0015. The crank slightly wider.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 07 Feb 2020 at 6:49pm |
djake, My way was to read the plastigage on the crank. This is not a good picture from my old flip phone! I never looked at the cap? Seems they should be the same??
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 07 Feb 2020 at 6:50pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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