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djake 
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Joined: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Green Isle, MN
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 Topic: D17 Loose shaft/arm
Posted: 13 Dec 2019 at 9:17am |
[TUBE]LViGPKjA7dk[/TUBE]
Is there any way to fix this short of replacing the parts?
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Strokendiesel002
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Joined: 04 Apr 2019
Location: 53158
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Posted: 13 Dec 2019 at 9:52am |
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Mines probably worse than that, unfortunately... mind if I follow along to see the repair?
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Acdiesel
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Location: Rochester Ohio
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Posted: 13 Dec 2019 at 11:07am |
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the couple that i have done, I built male shaft splines up with a bead of weld and reground it till it fit tight.
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Lonn
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Posted: 13 Dec 2019 at 11:25am |
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Do both pieces wear a lot or is the wear mostly in the female splines? Can a good metal shop make a new female spline piece to weld in place of old piece?
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 13 Dec 2019 at 12:58pm |
I fixed the flywheel on a 2,500 ton forge press, by filling the gap with an epoxy. I can't for the life of me, remember the brand name of it. I made a plate that bolted to the shaft, used wedges to kinda line up the flywheel , then used a plastic syringe to fill in the gap. Let it set for 24 hours and they ran that machine 24-7 for about 6 months, till they got parts ahead enough to tear it down and have other repairs done .
My brother did a fix like that on a 1300 ton forge press and a year or 2 later I had to tear that press down for a rebuild. We put a LP burner on the shaft, and flywheel hub to get it to just over 600 degrees F and pulled it apart with a 60 ton porta power jack.
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 13 Dec 2019 at 1:01pm
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 13 Dec 2019 at 1:28pm |
OK, humour me ( 2 hrs 'sleep' last night...)
What about adding thin steel 'shims' vertically to 'take up the slack' between the faces of the gears or splines or whatever's the proper term( they LOOK like gears to me..) Maybe something like 'banding strapping', a tough , thin steel.
Jay
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 13 Dec 2019 at 5:27pm |
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Permatex has a 5 minute epoxy, that should fix it right up for $5 or less.
Suggested Applications: Complex, multi-piece
assemblies. Bonds rigid materials including ceramic, chrome, fabric,
fiberglass, glass, hard plastic, metal and rubber
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 13 Dec 2019 at 5:28pm
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Lonn
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Posted: 13 Dec 2019 at 6:38pm |
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I suppose a cheap fix would be to weld it in two or three spots..... you can always grind it apart again
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john(MI)
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Posted: 13 Dec 2019 at 7:34pm |
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I wonder if you cleaned it real good and then forced in the JB Weld for wet applications that you knead to mix? That stuff is pretty strong.
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Gary Burnett
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Location: Virginia
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Posted: 13 Dec 2019 at 8:14pm |
Is there room enough to drill in a couple holes,weld nuts to hold set screws on the outside piece and then tighten up as tight as possible?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 14 Dec 2019 at 8:36am |
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Replace the shaft seal so there's no worries about oil leaks. With a rosebud on your torch, warm up the splined area collar on the arm til it's red all the way around and let it cool down enough to not damage the new seal. Drive the arm into place and let it cool fully. Consider driving it on so far that it binds up on the splines and forget the roll pin. Weld on the bottom to solidify the repair. Weld can always be ground off if needed, but why would you need to with a new seal above it ?? Heating it red and then allowing it to cool off on it's own will shrink it to fit tighter on the worn shaft.
Edited by DrAllis - 14 Dec 2019 at 9:04am
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Strokendiesel002
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Joined: 04 Apr 2019
Location: 53158
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Posted: 14 Dec 2019 at 8:07pm |
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that's a pretty slick trick there Dr nice responses everyone
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