Non-detergent engine oil

I know the pros and cons of detergent vs non-detergent motor oil have been discussed, but I think I'll go with non-detergent in the WD I recently bought, and I'm wondering what's available. All I've found, with one exception which is very expensive, is not for automotive type engines.

I would start using the detergent oil like every other motor in the world does today. Monitor the oil and see if crud starts to break off and dirty the oil... If the motor is that dirty / sludge inside.... you have problems anyway .......... might as well get it cleaning out..... your motor will thank you 2 years from now.

any farm and home type store like rural king will have it. if thats what you want. Last time I looked rural king oil was under $10 a gallon for sae 30.     the autoparts stores like autozone, oriely, etc will be double the cost. 

I'll throw in to roil the waters, Royal purple oil!  No wait, Amsoil!

Motor oil with zinc additives. Off the top of my head I can't think of a non-detergent oil with zinc.

Non Detergent engine oil died long before Elvis for real good reason. DON'T USE IT!!!!!!!!!!

Tractor Supply Co. has Travelers Non-Detergent 30wt in five quart jugs. It was on sale for $9.99.

I'm a black sheep here too, as I use non-detergent oil in my tractors. I've bought it lately from Tractor Supply in the 5 qt jugs like BEK said for $9.99, but I have historically used NAPA brand non-detergent at $1.99/qt.

Converted our tractors decades ago to detergent oil. After the conversion, we ran it for maybe 10 to 20 hours and dumped the oil and filter and then just stayed with the 100 hr filter/ oil change. Never had any issues with it.

But, there may be something to be said for the old "bypass" filtering system on a WD and using non-detergent oil in an old engine.  Detergent oils carry the dirt to the full flow filter which traps the dirt and lets the oil move on to lubricating things. The bypass system only filters a small percentage of the oil per minute instead of 100% per minute like full-flow systems do. So, do you want to pump dirty oil every minute to engine parts with detergent oil?? or let some of the dirt settle and separate from the oil ??  I would only use good detergent oil if I knew the engine was clean inside.

Most compressor manufacturers now specify HD synthetic oil.

If the engine is filthy there might be some dirt around the seals which may prevent some oil from leaking past the seals. Detergent oils may clean that dirt away, possibly causing more seal leakage. I would consider using non-detergent oil as a crutch in this case, not a permanent solution. The fix is to replace the seals if they leak after switching to detergent oil. If you bought a used tractor from someone, the odds are he was already using detergent oil. If the seal are leaking now, switching to non-detergent will not fix that problem. Why switch back now?

Only purpose for non Detergent these days is gear box oils, no need of the detergent value but will not hurt.

If you're going to change the oil every 100 hours, per the original schedule, you don't need an expensive oil. Much less a synthetic oil. In any case, I'd still use a detergent oil. As for recycled oil, if I used that in either of my cars and they found out, it would void the warranty. Both manufacturers specify synthetic only. Mineral oil is acceptable if it's an "emergency," but they state to drain and refill with synthetic as soon as possible.

Creston,back then they sold add on bypass filters for the old stovebolts.

The only place I use non-detergent oil these days is in my WD's hydraulics. I've got some cheapo 20 weight non-detergent stuff that works great for plowing and remote cylinder use.