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garden_guy 
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Joined: 05 Jul 2013
Location: Illinois
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 Topic: Best jack for working on a narrow front tractor?
Posted: 03 Dec 2018 at 10:15pm |
Whats the best way to work on a narrow front tractor? I've got an old school farm jack, but I know how dangerous they are and I am leery of them, and would prefer something more stable/less dangerous.
Say I want to work on my WD... I was thinking either a bottle jack buiilt up on some cribbing or a hydraulic jack (the kind that rolls on four steel wheels and has a big handle).
Is it easier to jack up the front end with a bottle jack and set it back down on a bunch of concrete blocks or 4x4 posts?
What do you guys do?
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Reindeer
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Calgary, AB
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Posted: 03 Dec 2018 at 10:22pm |
While I was working on the steering box of the D15 I cribbed up under the clutch housing, so I could drop the wide front out of the way. Had a bottle jack in place to lift using the cribbing as a base.
Worked well. Used 8x8 and 6x8 with some smaller boards for fine adjustment.
Edited by Reindeer - 03 Dec 2018 at 10:25pm
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Don(MO)
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Location: Bates City MO.
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Posted: 03 Dec 2018 at 11:35pm |
If all you are doing is fixing a tire or repacking wheel bearings just lay a 2" x 4" (might need two if one is to low) say 12" long in front of a front tire and drive tractor up onto the 2x4 set brake the other tire/wheel will just be off the ground.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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dumpswithpin
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Posted: 04 Dec 2018 at 2:21am |
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 04 Dec 2018 at 6:00am |
Please NEVER,EVER use 'concrete blocks' !!!!! ONLY use solid blocks or good timbers. Hollow concrete blocks WILL fail..one day. I prefer timbers as concrete can chip and fail. Besides a solid 8by8 concrete block is dang HEAVY !
I'm wondering if you can get the jack between the front wheels to lift ? Don't own one so I don't know what space there is. I use a 3T floor jack and timbers to lift my D-14s.May take awhile but it's SAFE. egads I sound lke an old ,busted record... Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
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FREEDGUY
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Posted: 04 Dec 2018 at 6:14am |
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That picture brings back memories of helping dad swap out narrow front /wide front on the D-17 every fall. Dad ran a NI mounted picker for harvest and the '17 was the tillage tractor in the spring and wanted the wide front on for smoother riding. Right or wrong, that's the same jack we used-right down to the color of yours LOL!!
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JoeO(CMO)
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Posted: 04 Dec 2018 at 6:39am |
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-what Don said
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wfmurray
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Posted: 04 Dec 2018 at 9:01am |
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I made a saw horse out of 1 1/4 pipe and reenforced it good and made it to just go under tractor .Jack up and put a 2 by on sawhorse and have weight of front end.Worked good on D/14
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 04 Dec 2018 at 9:49am |
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When I pulled the engine in my D17D, I cribbed it up with concrete blocks under the clutch housing but put a 4x4 wood block between the tractor and the concrete blocks.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Ray54
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Posted: 04 Dec 2018 at 11:02am |
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Nothing wrong with using the tipsy jack if you put cribbing under it before you risk your life. Or even just put a board under the other front wheel. Just never forget what ever name you put on the pictured jack the only thing for sure is it will tip. But so handy to not have to drag out a big bunch of blocks if your life is not on the line.
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TimNearFortWorth
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Posted: 04 Dec 2018 at 11:34am |
Never seen that "Handy Man" type jack until I left the farm and headed to WY. Standard issue for co. vehicles in the oil and gas industry back in the early 80's and everyone had a story about themselves or someone they knew that smashed their hands up using them and you could pick out the pickups where they had been used by the damaged tailgates/bumpers. Everyone does what they have to do but I will not have one on the farm. Big bottle jack, or big floor jack and two different types of jack stands that are stout enough to be used splitting the 190XT and a large pile of wooden cribbing. Can remember what we called a "barn jack" growing up, large base with course threads and a swivel top and those things were heavy. When our dairy barn was straightened by cabling, they first brought it more into line by leveling with those barn jacks and they had plenty of them that were far larger than ours. New beams for additional support were slid into place with RR Jacks, same theory as the Handy Man, just super duty. Cribbing is everything and new 4x4's are cheap from a big box store, it is your life after all. If at all possible, also have someone there to assist.
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Ross D.
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Posted: 04 Dec 2018 at 12:13pm |
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To re-enforce what Jay said, Never use concrete blocks (cinder, cement, bricks, etc.). They are not designed for the point load, and I would never use them in conjunction with wood.
Dad was a master mechanic. He started with an A C Distributor in Toronto in 1937. He progressed to be Manager. In 1953, Dad was in a partnership at an A C dealership. When A C approached him to become a Territory Manager, he accepted the challenge and he set up the dealer network in the Ottawa area. Always the 'mechanic' with his years of experience, he would help the new and existing dealers in all aspects of sales, service and safety. Never use concrete blocks was always at the top of the safety list. Dad went on to be the Service Manager for the Toronto Branch of Allis Chalmers Rumley Ltd.. He always preached about safety first.
How important is your health?
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ACinSC
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Posted: 04 Dec 2018 at 12:55pm |
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When I pulled the rear wheel off my D 15 I used my 3 ton powerbuilt bottle jack/jack stand . Bought it at TSC . Also used 3 pieces of lam beam for cribbing . Not sure if it would work on a narrow front .
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Bill_MN
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Posted: 04 Dec 2018 at 2:43pm |
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Chain hoist around the frame rails just behind the front wheels if you have an overhead hook point is easiest. wood blocks under frame rail as a backup if chain fails.
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 04 Dec 2018 at 4:02pm |
GG, If just one wheel has to come off then Don(MO)'s method will work. These tractors tend to swing around when the front end comes off the ground. I have seen it happen. I am fortunate to have a couple steel saw horses that are just the right height with a couple wood blocks. You can see one of the steel sawhorses in this shot.
Better shot with front wheels off, and blocking to the frame rails. Used a floor jack to raise it gently then put blocks in place. I know you may not have these. But giving suggestions, and be safe!
Wood cribbing would be the next best thing! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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garden_guy
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Posted: 04 Dec 2018 at 8:00pm |
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Oh my, thank you for the replies, all! So, to summarize.
1. Never use concrete blocks. Go with wood cribbing. I am good with this. Wood is cheap. And anything is cheaper than a hospital bill (or worse).
2. If possible, don't bother to jack (ie. drive the other wheel up on some wood or somesuch).
3. Handyman jacks are evil. I have seen them kick out myself and do not like them, so I am in agreement here.
4. If you need a jack, seems like a 3+ ton bottle jack is the way to go. With some cribbing below.
To replace the front wheel I just drove up the other side on some wood, and then just used the handyman to take a bit of "slop" out of the missing wheel side (should've driven it up on more height on the other side probably).
Now looking at working on the front pedestal and was hoping to take the wheels and hubs off to rebuild/repair. But instead of doing both at once, I could always just drive up on blocks and do one at a time.
Edited by garden_guy - 04 Dec 2018 at 8:01pm
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Bill Long
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Posted: 04 Dec 2018 at 9:43pm |
Back in the day Pop went to a Junk Yard and picked up an engine lift for cars. It was wide enough to startle the narrow front tractors. We took the hood off the tractor and placed a bracket on the four valve cover bolts. Worked fine with no problems. When we were in the field and had to split a tractor or lift the front we looked for a solid tree. Did the same thing as with our engine crane but used a block and tackle or a chain craw for a lift. Primitive - compared to the equipment you have now days - but it worked and we were safe. Good Luck! Bill Long
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LouSWPA
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Posted: 04 Dec 2018 at 10:04pm |
 Bill Long wrote:
Back in the day Pop went to a Junk Yard and picked up an engine lift for cars. It was wide enough to startle the narrow front tractors. We took the hood off the tractor and placed a bracket on the four valve cover bolts. Worked fine with no problems. When we were in the field and had to split a tractor or lift the front we looked for a solid tree. Did the same thing as with our engine crane but used a block and tackle or a chain craw for a lift. Primitive - compared to the equipment you have now days - but it worked and we were safe. Good Luck! Bill Long
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Bill, I pulled many a car engine with block and tackle and the obligatory sturdy tree in my youth!
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I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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garden_guy
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Posted: 04 Dec 2018 at 10:10pm |
Oh, and an extra hat tip to Sugarmaker -- I have seen the tractors want to "swing" a bit myself. I like your saw horse cribbing. I don't have anything like that; will have to go on the hunt for big sturdy wood.
On a side note, it looks like you can get to the bearing in the front of the pedestal.... From the bottom? You don't have to take the pedestal off to get into the bearing? Is that what I can see from your picture? Must just be that big bolt in the front that goes into the magical keyway? That's the other thing I feel like I need to do to this one pedestal that is wobbly, as I figure that bearing in there is pounded to death.
Edited by garden_guy - 04 Dec 2018 at 10:11pm
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shameless dude
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Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 12:46am |
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hang it then block it
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Tbone95
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Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 6:56am |
Bill Long wrote:
Back in the day Pop went to a Junk Yard and picked up an engine lift for cars. It was wide enough to startle the narrow front tractors. We took the hood off the tractor and placed a bracket on the four valve cover bolts. Worked fine with no problems. When we were in the field and had to split a tractor or lift the front we looked for a solid tree. Did the same thing as with our engine crane but used a block and tackle or a chain craw for a lift. Primitive - compared to the equipment you have now days - but it worked and we were safe. Good Luck! Bill Long
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A startled tractor must look pretty funny! Anyone seen the animated Cars movie? Hahahaha!!!!
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Stan IL&TN
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Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 8:31am |
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I went to a welder and had him take some 6" steel angle about 36" high and weld 1/4" steel plate on one end to make a stand. There are plenty of unused holes in those frame rails so jack up tractor and place stand against frame rail them mark on the stand where you need the holes then drill them so you can bolt the stand to the frame rail. I put one on each side.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 9:08am |
GG, Stan's idea of a frame bolted in two places on each side of the frame and to the ground on each side is a good idea. If you have some steel its a good time to bust out the cutting touch and welder and fab up a custom support.
To remove and repair the lower vertical bearing and seals in the pedestal you will need the tractor front off the ground 4-6 inches and blocked, under the frame.
Take both front wheels off. Hubs are optional as far as take off. Loosen the lock nut on the front and remove the sq head set screw (tightens against key). Then remove the large bolt (sq hd) from the bottom of the vertical shaft. The cross axles should come down and off the vertical shaft. Note the placement of any washers, and or shims too. Remove the sq cover on top of the pedestal and push/lift the vertical steering shaft up out of the pedestal. Now you can examine the bearing and races also the seals can be examined (top and bottom). If the bearing is bad then this is the time to remove the outer race with a long bar from the top. Also this is time to check the bearings at each end of the worm gear. Yea its a pain but mine were dry, worn out and causing the tractor to bind up during steering. Hope this helps. Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 06 Dec 2018 at 8:35am
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Charles (KY)
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Posted: 05 Dec 2018 at 8:07pm |
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How similar is removing the shaft on a wide axle gear box? I need to replace the seal at the bottom of the gear box.
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