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john n/il. 
Silver Level
Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Location: wonderlake ILL.
Points: 60
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 Topic: D-17d
Posted: 12 Jul 2010 at 10:09am |
Hope this works 
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john n/il.
Silver Level
Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Location: wonderlake ILL.
Points: 60
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Posted: 12 Jul 2010 at 10:10am |
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This is our newly aqiured 17d
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Jim Lindemood
Orange Level
Joined: 22 Sep 2009
Location: Dry Ridge, KY
Points: 2569
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Posted: 12 Jul 2010 at 10:15am |
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It worked. Looks like a pretty nice tractor.
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Coljus
Bronze Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2010
Location: Texas
Points: 39
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Posted: 12 Jul 2010 at 2:59pm |
Your tractor is very similiar to mine... any idea how to remove the radiator? Is the hood segment containing the radiator cap hole/cut out connected to the lower half of this hood? Mine looks like it is tack welded and I CANNOT get it off the tractor. I find it very hard to believe AC would make it this tough to access the radiator/water pump, etc...
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Prairie City Ia
Points: 10508
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Posted: 12 Jul 2010 at 7:27pm |
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Coljus, the lower hose setup on a diesel is totally different (alot easier) than a gas. I have the radiator out of mine and all I had to do was remove the bolts on the sides of the radiator shell, remove the center segment between the radiator and fuel tank, and it lifted off easily. If I remember correctly, there are 2 bolts that attach the radiator to the pedestal. It also seems like the "trim panel" for lack of a better term under the pedestal on a narrow front has to come off the get to the bolts. The center segment running from the fuel tank to the radiator is originally bolted in place. If yours is welded, looks like you have some fun coming your way.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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GregLawlerMinn
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lawler, Mn
Points: 1226
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Posted: 13 Jul 2010 at 9:19am |
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I recently had to remove the radiator/nose cone from my D17D. Removed the side panels and the center panel support, radiator screen, P/S fill tube, 3/8" bolts on the side of the nose cone, 1/2" bolts from the front and the upper/lower radiator hoses (headlights and wiring are MIA) and lifted both parts off together as the nose cone would not come off seperately. Once off, I noticed someone had bolted the front hood panel clips thru the nose cone...and...thru the radiator sides, thus preventing the removal of the nose cowl seperately. Redid the clips and when I reinstalled the radiator, did it in two parts. Reinstalling the two bolts holding the front of the center support panel was a challange for my phat phingers.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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john n/il.
Silver Level
Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Location: wonderlake ILL.
Points: 60
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Posted: 13 Jul 2010 at 11:59am |
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I had no problems in the past with the removal of the front shroud to get to the radiator.But that was on a d15gas and a 60 d17gas .This is a 58 17d and i wont be stripping it down till feb.when we will sandblast and paint .I need a power steering pump for it yet but those suckers are pricy.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Prairie City Ia
Points: 10508
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Posted: 13 Jul 2010 at 12:00pm |
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My D17D also looked about as good as that one when I got it. With nothing in front of the fuel tank at the moment, it's kind of tough to identify it...
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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