Restoring a 1940 Allis Chalmers Model B

Hello everyone! I recently came into ownership of an Allis Chalmers Model B, Serial #17XXX, which should place it around 1940. It has the sickle mower bar. The last time it ran was about 8 years ago, and as I was not the owner, it was not taken care of. It has spent most of its' life out in a shed, out of the elements. I would like advice on how to get started restoring this beautiful tractor!

The current problems, as far as I can tell, are as follow:
-Gearbox sludgy(slow/hard to shift into gears)
-Hard to rotate crank
-Doesn't start(haven't tinkered yet though, I'm sure the carb is pure varnish)
-Finish is terrible because of an extra layer of red lead paint
-Flat rear tire, tube doesn't hold pressure and the sidewall is cracked

I've given it a lot of thought, and I've gotten it down to a few decisions to make right away. Refinishing it can come later:
-Do I make it run, then worry about taking it apart and rebuilding the engine, or just dive right in?
-How far should I rebuild the engine? New sleeves, cylinders, all the way down to the shims?

I've rebuilt a 1982 Honda cb750, and I've worked with modern automotive engines for most of my life, so I at least know how engines work, however I've never tackled anything this old. I have a shed to work in, and it would probably be a good idea to invest in an engine stand.

Any advice or opinions you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

get it running and moving to determine whether it need engine or transmission work.  then evaluate what needs to be done and the costs and decide from there. start with a few squirts of oil in the cylinders to lube them and then work on fuel and spark.

Edited by CAL(KS) - 28 Feb 2018 at 2:05pm

Thanks for the suggestions so far! Somehow that manual managed to evade my searching. I'm reading it now, and I can tell it will be a huge help. I'll pull off the carb this weekend and fix that up, and see if I can get her running in a few weeks.

is it hard to crank with the plugs pulled?

Good advice so far. Drain the engine and transmission oils and check for contamination (water, coolant, sludge, etc.) and change the oil filter before proceeding too far. Once you get it running you can find out what else is needed. And welcome to the Forum, you will find some good advice here.

You chose a good tractor.  They are incredibly easy to work on and as stated parts are readily available.  Just some quick thoughts on restoring your B:

Edited by BEK - 01 Mar 2018 at 8:33am

It is not in my plans to get money out of this; I plan on keeping it for the span of its' or my life, which ever ends first(Probably mine, knowing how they built things back then)

Unfortunately it's being kept away from my house, so I haven't pulled the plugs yet or started tinkering. I would have to agree that wrenching on things is more my style, but this is a great opportunity to learn a new skill.

Seeing as this is tractor is 88 years old, I assumed I would have to dive all the way in, replacing shims, bearings, bushings, etc. I guess that's why I am a bit confused as to why everyone says to get it running first, then decide how deep to go. But I won't argue with experience, if that's the route that everyone suggests, then that is the route I will follow.

But if I decide to rebuild the whole engine(which seems like a good idea), does it pay to get it running first? At any rate, I think the easiest thing to start with is slapping a new tube on the rear tire, that will make moving it around a whole lot easier. Now, just have to figure out the tube size...

Thanks for the great advice so far, this Forum is more help than I could have imagined!

Everybody here is steering you in a good direction.  Get it going and proceed as you see fit.

Everything said so far is true! If it won't run it may not be worth the expense to do what you are considering. You will never get your monetary investment back but hey I have always believed education is expensive. You have to love these old tractors or why would you own one? (just my thought)

Starting with cleaning the carb is the right idea.

But before you reinstall it, remove the gas tank and thoroughly flush it out.

A handful of crushed stone shaken all around inside the tank is a cheap scale remover.

Flush thoroughly with water and blow dry.

Don't forget glass fuel bowl and strainer.

Gary

DJS is good as are the other vendors that advertise on here and support this Forum. I have bought from them as well as OK Tractor and Tony's Tractors and have never been disappointed. For carburetor and magneto work and wiring kits Steve at B&B Custom Circuits can't be beat.

All good advice, but the first thing is getting all the old gunky oils and greases out.  Drain everything and it should turn easier.
Then turn it like Dick says and see if the valves work freely.  You also get to look at the valve springs this way to see if any are broken.

Take the (plugs) out of the bottom of the transmission and let it run or drip out first. You can tell by what comes out if other methods are needed. Thick oil will still run out slowly. If it has a hydraulic pump it will most likely be thin if it is not empty. I have bought several that was empty and full of rust.

Have you got one of those hand pumps for weeds?  The kind you push the handle up and down to put pressure on the inside?  Well, put some diesel fuel in one and stick the end down inside and move it around as it's spraying.  Some more of that gunk SHOULD come out.  You just have to be patient and let it drip. . . . .

Put the plugs back in then DON'T fill anything except the oil in the motor.  AFTER you've got it running, you can put more diesel in the tranny/hyd pump, and run it down about 50 feet, put it in reverse and come back 50 feet.  That should thin any 'gunk' left in there.  Drain that and then try to inspect OR,,,,,,,as I do,,,do it again.  When the diesel comes out, just about as clean as it went in, then drain that good and fill everything to the full points with Universal Hyd/Trans fluid.  You're done with that.
Hope this helps...

I prefer to see an original looking steel line and sediment bowl instead of a rubber fuel line that someone looped in front of the air cleaner...