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rossinmich 
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: West Michigan
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 Topic: d17 power director netral position
Posted: 11 Jun 2010 at 11:04pm |
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My d-17, new to me, will post pics later, has no neutral position in the power director. Where should I start? I'm thinking the clutch itself needs adjusting, not the lever. Anyone had this happen before?
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Prairie City Ia
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Posted: 11 Jun 2010 at 11:17pm |
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When you say no neutral, are you talking about the lever not having a detent that holds it in neutral, or the tractor still wanting to move with the lever in neutral position? Especially when cold, the tractor will want to creep until the oil in the power director warms up. Nature of the beast.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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rossinmich
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Location: West Michigan
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Posted: 11 Jun 2010 at 11:23pm |
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No, there seems to not be a detent position, goes from low to high, no neutral. Am new owner of the tractor, and yes, oil is warmed up.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Location: Prairie City Ia
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Posted: 11 Jun 2010 at 11:27pm |
Can you hold the lever in a neutral position? The push button is supposed to be able to lock the lever in position. It's probably like mine and the plate down by the pivot point is worn to the point that you don't need to press the button to move the lever.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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ryan(IN)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Bluffton,IN
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Posted: 13 Jun 2010 at 9:32am |
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When i bought my D14 it didn't go into neutral either. Turns out the pin that lock it in is missing. i still need to fix that. thanks for reminding me!
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ryan
1984 8070 FWA,1979 7060,1975 7040,1971 190,1960 D-17D,1957 D-14, 196? D-19G, 1975 5040,1971? 160,1994 R62
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prospolaris
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Joined: 17 Aug 2010
Location: nj
Points: 84
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Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 2:57pm |
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hey how are ya. i have a d 19 and i can not get it to stay in hi gear. took off the side plate and have tryed to ajust them. nothing seems to be working any ideas? as of now the shims starting from the back of the tractor are 3 middle 8 front 4.. any ideas.. have it all torn apart and hay this week.
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JC-WI
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: wisconsin
Points: 33901
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Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 3:18pm |
Sounds like your linkage that 'snaps' over is worn out, and pivot pins etc.
Levers on clutch packs will eventually wear grooves in the face of the plate assembly in clutch pack. often wondered if a fellow could buzz some new hard face in those grooves and reuse the plate and then do the same to the worn surfaces on the levers.
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prospolaris
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Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 3:35pm |
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where would i look to see if its worn out? is this repairable? does seem liek it is worn out but can i check it?
thanks andrew
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Jack(Ky)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ky
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Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 3:48pm |
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I repaired the ramps on mine a few years ago. Just weld it up with a rod that will work on hard metals and order new rollers from Agco. You will have to split the tractor and pull out the power director. After grinding the ramps put the pack back in and pull it in and out of gear til you get it just right before putting tractor back together. JP
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prospolaris
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Location: nj
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Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 3:52pm |
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so by the sounds of thingsits not the clutch shims? looks like this might be a job for the winter.. it pulls back and locks in low great high is justdoesnt seem to lock have a bungy holding it now
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JC-WI
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Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 3:58pm |
Think you would have to have a couple mirrors and a good light to shine on the clutch pack. If I remember right, the front section is the low range pack and the back half is the high range.
the back half has the levers on them that also push the link rods that engage and disengage the front pack. The wear will be under the levers where they ride on the preload plate, there is suppose to be a roller between those levers. The rollers could also be worn out so levers don't have a full 'snap over' action to them
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prospolaris
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Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 4:01pm |
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does the tractor need to be split to change Rollers?
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Skyhighballoon(MO)
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Location: Pilot Grove, MO
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Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 6:12pm |
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I put new rollers in the high side of my Series IV when I had it split to put in new plates...helped a little but not much...still pops out of the high side some and the whole engagement is loose/sloppy. I need to have it split again and do it right on both sides with new rollers and having the ramps fixed. Mike
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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