1925 and 1926 Allis Chalmers 20-35 longfenders

Thought I would post some of my recent additions to the collection.  This summer I picked up a 1925 20-35 Allis longfender and a 1929 20-35 shortfender in a package deal.  The parts are all mixed up, the SF front half is on the LF rear half, but most of the parts are there to put both back together.  

Here it the "hybrid" is as found:

And the hybrid cut and dug out:

Here is the LF front half:

Here is the SF rear half:

Got them hauled home earlier this summer:

I like that John Deere grain auger too! Granddad used to have one that had a small (Wisconsin I think) engine to run it. He said it worked pretty good, and would move the grain. 

I currently only have the one set of LF front wheels that came with the LF I found here in ND, pictured above.  I am looking for another set of LF front wheels, but I know they are about impossible to find, so as mentioned in my parts reproduction post my buddy Kyle has a set of original LF cuttoff hubs that we will use to reproduce some wheels if it comes to that and there is any demand from other people looking for a set.

So far I have not gotten any interest in front wheels really.  Air washers and oil gauges yes.  I was kind of surprised by this, I thought a few more people would be needing front wheels?  

If anyone needs parts, contact me.

Yeah, they were pretty sunk into the ground!  Been sitting there for over 50 years!

Here is a few videos I took of the process.

[TUBE]http://youtu.be/MTt602zsiI4[/TUBE]

[TUBE]http://youtu.be/OukbTs3KQ3c[/TUBE]

[TUBE]http://youtu.be/EYAQkRChZLY[/TUBE]

[TUBE]http://youtu.be/XNj-8wqwzJA[/TUBE]

[TUBE]http://youtu.be/sW7CJ0ne_Lk[/TUBE]

[TUBE]http://youtu.be/Qbxh31j8h0U[/TUBE]

[TUBE]http://youtu.be/ZfvSwBfJFSk[/TUBE]

This is a constant speed governor used on the early tractors.  I believe they only used them up until 1926.  Unlike the later ones, these had no control to adjust them from the dash, hence calling them constant speed.

I was pleasantly surprised when I opened it up, there was just enough old oil and junk to preserve things from rusting.

The governor weight arm is supposed to be held in place on the shaft with a taper pin.  The pin was missing on this one, and it was not inside the housing, so someone must have been inside this at some point.  I don't understand why they would have not replaced the pin, but it did make disassembly much easier.

The only thing really worn is the brass shifter

Note the wear on the left side of the brass shifter.  

The shaft and housing bushings seem to be worn very little, so I am going to leave well enough alone.  I can always take this back apart in the future to put in new parts if I decide it leaks oil too much once the tractor is running.  (which will be a long time down the road).

The governor pivot pins and bushings are also in great shape.

So I just cleaned everything up, made a new gasket for the governor clamp (what holds it to the side of the engine block).

Yesterday I ordered up some brass stock to make a new shifter, a taper pin to pit in the arm, and some key stock to make a new key for the arm.  All from McMaster Carr.  Once it comes I'll put it together with the new parts and I'll make a new gasket.

I still have to round up an original drain cock for this as it was missing.

I also freed up the adjustment to fine tune the governor once running.

Just thought I'd give a quick update for those that might be wondering what the inside of one of these old governors looks like.

Ok, good to know, thanks Dave.  I'll give you a call sometime to pick your brain some more.

Phil, yes, the gears look good from what I can see so far.  It is a dirty mess in there, the pictures make it look a bit better than it really is, the bottom is filled with gunk and rust, but once cleaned out and gone through, should be good to go!

Anyone have any advice on tearing into the tranny of one of these beasts?  It seems fairly straight forward, as they are not overly complicated, but any advice is welcomed, as I have a few that might eventually be needing work?  If I'm going to go this far, I might as well take it all apart to inspect and be sure everything is in good shape?

Then I bounced back to the radiator tanks.

It is a fairly nice day here, so I set up outside and wire wheeled up the inside of the tanks to see how much work they will need.

Here are three of the tanks after a little wire wheel time. The other top tank I have here is fairly rough shape, so I am waiting to see what the third top tank I have back home looks like when I pull that apart. I'm hoping it will be in better shape, and I will use that to complete my two tanks. The one top I have here is fixable, but is rotted through in a few places.

Note the one bottom tank mounting boss on the upper left is rotten right through, it looked solid, but once I touched it with the wire wheel it went right through.




These are so prone to rotting out, this bottom tank can be seen that it has been fixed once in the past. a piece of threaded pipe was shoved in the original rotten pipe and welded in place.


The top tank pictured also has had a new piece of tube welded onto the original stub of the inlet in the past.