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Motor quits when it gets good and warmed up
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allischalmerguy View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Deep River, IA
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    Posted: 06 Jun 2016 at 9:40pm
Hi guys and gals,
I have a troy bilt rototiller that has a Tecumseh HH60 6 hp motor on it. It is an old tiller. It does not smoke. I put a new set of points and condensor on it last fall. And I put on a new carb too.   The problem I am having is when the motor is worked for a while it quits. And it is hard to start. When it cools down it runs again. Do you think it is bad spark plug or what?
Thanks
MIke in Iowa
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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Jim Hancock View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Points: 1112 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim Hancock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jun 2016 at 2:13am
Does it just quit dead in it tracks or misfire a little bit before it dies? 
If it misfires and dies, I'd change the plug. 
If it just quits in it's tracks, mag/ ignition coil needs changed. 
After that, look at the condensor again. HTH. 
How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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allischalmerguy View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Points: 2877 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allischalmerguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jun 2016 at 8:51am
Thanks Jim. The next time I run it I will see what it does. I was not paying that much attention to know the difference.
Mike
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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HD6GTOM View Drop Down
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Joined: 30 Nov 2009
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Points: 6627 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HD6GTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jun 2016 at 10:24am
dad had 1 on a tiller that didthat, exhaust valve seat would raise up and float around when the motor got hot causing it to stop running. Took it to mechanic to spot. he peaned the valve seatback in place and fixed the problem
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DonBC View Drop Down
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Points: 913 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DonBC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jun 2016 at 11:28am
My vote is the coil. If the coil feels hot after the engine stalls that would be an indication that it is bad. 
Jack of all trades, master of none
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Steve in NJ View Drop Down
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Could be something as simple as fuel tank not venting or fuel vapor lock. Loosen the fuel tank cap Mike next time you till and see if it does the same thing....
Steve@B&B

Edited by Steve in NJ - 07 Jun 2016 at 2:23pm
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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allischalmerguy View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Points: 2877 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allischalmerguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jun 2016 at 7:47pm
Thanks everyone for your suggestons...next time I get it out I will try.
Mike
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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allischalmerguy View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Points: 2877 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allischalmerguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2016 at 4:58pm
Originally posted by allischalmerguy allischalmerguy wrote:

Thanks everyone for your suggestons...next time I get it out I will try.
Mike


I put a new spark plug on. Still does it. I am guessing it is the coil. The points and condensor were new last fall and it has not been run that much.
Mike
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Mike, does that tiller have my DNA on it? Hope you get it figured out and it's an easy fix. 
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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allischalmerguy View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

Mike, does that tiller have my DNA on it? Hope you get it figured out and it's an easy fix. 



Charlie,
No that was my older one. I have not gotten yours going yet! But I hope to by the end of the summer. Maybe I should work on your old one!
Mike
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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Dan73 View Drop Down
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Points: 6054 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2016 at 6:21pm
I hope that isn't like the 12 hp Tecumseh I had in a lawn mower. That one had an electric pickup for the spark. That module failed and is not made any more so I couldn't replace it. That was about 4 years ago. I only bought the mower with the problem because I thought it would be an easy fix and I wanted the rear dump deck. Turned out that mower was also funky and hard to put a different motor into. With a tiller I might start looking for a different 6 hp motor. Now I want to see if I can track down that deck still want to try it on a different mower.
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allischalmerguy View Drop Down
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Dan,
Man that would be a bummer! Did you look on Amazon and ebay?

You brought up something though. Maybe someone will know if there is an electronic module to convert a HH60 tecumseh too. I will start a new thread. Thanks
Mike
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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Dan73 View Drop Down
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At the time I looked everywhere about 6 years ago. The only ones I could find where expensive removed from running motors on ebay. I didn't think it was worth the risk. Always ment to try an industrial sensor but I ended up moving and scrapped the motor. A friend took the tractor as he wanted to figure out how to fit a different motor inside the frame rails. It is still just sitting behind his house...
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Dan73 View Drop Down
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Joined: 04 Jun 2015
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In fact that little experience is what convinced me that the case ingersoll garden tractors where the thing to have. Hydraulic pump on the back drives everything but the mower deck or snow blower which is a normal belt pullie off the front. Very easy to convert them to a different motor. I have one I repowered with a 13 hp diesel.   
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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I would think you could put fresh gas in the one you got from me and go to tillin. Maybe change the oil after it gets warmed up.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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allischalmerguy View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

I would think you could put fresh gas in the one you got from me and go to tillin. Maybe change the oil after it gets warmed up.


I did put fresh gas in it Charlie...this spring. I cleaned out the tank too. But it would not start. I need to ck to see if I have spark. I have not had time to do that yet! Too many projects!!!
Thanks!
Mike
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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GlenPettit View Drop Down
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Joined: 16 Feb 2016
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Points: 26 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GlenPettit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2016 at 10:19am
I think Steve might have pointed out the most common problem and easiest solution for what your tractor is doing; that small vent gets easily plugged (often have to push-prod or drill it open).
If it starts with a squart of  'starting fluid' in the intake filter, then it's the fuel or lines.


Edited by GlenPettit - 01 Jul 2016 at 10:24am
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ACGUY if this was a Briggs the first thing I would look at is the valve adjustment. I really don't know anything about a Tecumseh, but like I said if you have a dying problem with a Briggs, go to the valves. Outside of that, my first suspicion would be the coil or condenser. I'd also look for a loose connection or worn spot in the wiring. When motor is cold there may not be a short but as they heat up things can move closer together and short out. Keep digging and scratching you head and pretty soon you'll have it.
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check the valve lash 
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