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RyanTN 
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Location: Stewart Co, TN
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 Topic: Any MacGyver's out there? Need ideas
Posted: 21 Apr 2010 at 6:36pm |
Okay, so the bolt to the hand clutch handle on my CA is broke off. I have a replacement handle and bolt, but I need to get the old one out. I imagine welding a nut on it would be the best and easiest way. Too bad I don't own a welder or know how to use one (yet). I was thinking of using some locktite and double nutting it, maybe even a crow's foot wrench on the bottom nut. Does anyone else have any ideas?
Edited by RyanTN - 21 Apr 2010 at 6:48pm
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mlpankey
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Posted: 21 Apr 2010 at 6:44pm |
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use a allthread nut .Its a long nut used to join to lengths of all thread together .
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dadsdozerhd5b
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Posted: 21 Apr 2010 at 6:49pm |
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what i would do is drill a small pilot hole down until it goes all the way through the bolt and then open it up to about 1/4 inch. fill with good penetrating oil and let sit. try to get the hole in the center in case you need to drill it all the way out. try the double nut trick if there is enough thread or use vise grips. sometimes heating up the bolt after center is drilled and letting it cool shrinks it enough to let it come out easily. an easy out may also let you get it out. sometimes as simple as a few whacks with a hammer loosens it enough to turn it out. good luck
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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BennyLumpkin
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Posted: 21 Apr 2010 at 7:16pm |
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Heat and an extractor....I have a set of outside ones that you hammer down over the bolt and it twists in a reverse pattern so you as you loosen the bolt it bites harder....Craftsman makes them, as well as MAC and Snap On
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 21 Apr 2010 at 7:38pm |
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You might want to get a little closer to your work. Take the platform off if it's in your way. If things don't work out, cut a little bit of the bolt off and disassemble the clutch. It will be much easier to work on.
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Glockhead SWMI
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Posted: 21 Apr 2010 at 7:42pm |
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Heat it. Work it out a little at a time. Heat it some more.
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rich
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Posted: 21 Apr 2010 at 7:45pm |
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use some penetrating oil before trying the good ideas you already got
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 21 Apr 2010 at 8:06pm |
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Use KROIL for that penetrating oil alternating with heat and vibration with quite a bit of patience.
Gerald J.
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
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Posted: 21 Apr 2010 at 8:11pm |
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I will second on the Kroil idea. I have been working on my D17 seat off an on, and trying to get the roll pins out. I soaked them a week ago and finally got a roll pin punch. I got one out tonite and the other moved a little. I am going to soak them again tonite and give them a try this weekend. Drilling the center out and heating is also a great idea. Otherwise, welding a nut on would be my first idea. There has to be someone close to you with a welder. Time for a sunday drive!!
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DREAM
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Posted: 21 Apr 2010 at 8:27pm |
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I'm liking all ideas so far. I think driling it out somewhat(but not so much that it may twist off when you put an extractor on it) is a good start. Follow up with lots of Kroil. Apply Kroil, whack briskly, but not so hard you break the bracket, right after putting on the kroil, then apply some more Kroil. Let it sit. Go do something else. Come back in a few hours. Repeat procedure. Go do something else. Come back the next day and repeat procedure. Don't get impatient. Time is on your side here. I wouldn't even think about putting a wrench on it for 3 days or longer. Just keep tapping on it and pouring the Kroil to it. When you get ready, go to your local auto parts store and buy a stud extractor. They are not expensive, and work well for this, as well as other things you may need later. Put the stud extractor on the bolt, apply pressure to the wrench, and tap on the top of the bolt with the hammer as you try to turn it. It should come out, if not, find an oxy-acetylene torch. Heat it cherry red, allow it to cool a few minutes aftewr it stops glowing, then whack it with the hammer a few times before you put the stud extractor back on it. If that doesn't work, drill that sucker all the way out and re-tap. Don't let it beat you, you're the one with the brain and tools. Good luck!
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mlpankey
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Posted: 21 Apr 2010 at 8:55pm |
its actually called allthread cupplers here is what they look like have you going in 30 minutes or less may neen to chase the threads though.
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GlenninPA
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Posted: 21 Apr 2010 at 8:58pm |
A little Kroil goes a long ways.....
You do not need to drench it like you do with PB Blaster, in fact that little straw that comes on the Kroil can is your best friend. All you need to put on there is enough to creep around the threads, it will work it's way in there...
They claim it will creep into a millionth of an inch space. I do not have the equipment to measure that precise, but it has not failed me yet.
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Dick L
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Posted: 21 Apr 2010 at 9:06pm |
There be a hardened one I used instead of a regular hard nut on the clamp to the right. 
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mlpankey
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Posted: 21 Apr 2010 at 9:12pm |
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kip in cny
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Posted: 21 Apr 2010 at 10:33pm |
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I would remove the platform then heat it. Then put gray never seize on it and remove it. Its what I use on almost every stuck bolt works great. Will they let you work on that in the auto lab on post ? they had welders if not make some buddies with some 63B they should have away to help
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160 CA 920diesel 5020 HD-3
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RyanTN
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Posted: 30 Apr 2010 at 9:54pm |
WOULD. NOT. BUDGE! Thanks for all of the ideas everyone. I hit it with penetrating oil twice a day for week. Tried some heat. All I had was a propane torch, don't have a cutting torch, yet. I know it didn't get it hot enough. I tried double nutting it...then vice grips--NOTHING! A few more days of penetrating oil. I tried the all thread nut- NOPE. Then I moved up to drilling and an easy out-aka stud remover. It still would not move and the easy out finally split the bolt in two. I am trying to collapse what's left with a punch, and so far no luck. I think the next move is to drill it out and install a helicoil. Thanks again for all the ideas!
Edited by RyanTN - 01 May 2010 at 6:56am
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j.w.freck
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Posted: 30 Apr 2010 at 10:18pm |
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go to radio shack and get a can of freez all or something in that line.progress drill the broken fitting as mech as possible.heat the casting,put the freezall in the center of the drilled cavity,and at the same time put some penetrating oil around the threads.you may have to do this 2-3 times.if you want a the best penetrating oil get you some MOUSE MILK.there is none made better than this stuff.(freezall is used to ck capicators in electronics)
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bigallis1
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Posted: 01 May 2010 at 5:43am |
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Ryan, use Mapp Gas instead of propane with your torch.
Mapp gas burns hotter than propane.
Got that tip from a "MacGyver" buddy of mine.
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 01 May 2010 at 7:16am |
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Looking at your pic, I would say that's a job for the heat wrench and Kroil being its cranked into a cast iron piece. Get the cast cherry red with a torch, let it cool a bit. Spray around the stud with Kroil so it creeps in the threads while their hot. Give it a half hour. Heat it cherry again, double nut it, and slooowly crank it out. Let it cool down completely. Run a tap in it, some anti-seize, and install your new handle. Viola!
Steve@B&B
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mlpankey
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Posted: 01 May 2010 at 7:21am |
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try a stud removal tool if youre wanting it out . i thought you were just wanting a quick east way to reattach the handle when i mentioned the all thread nut
Edited by mlpankey - 01 May 2010 at 7:21am
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LouSWPA
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Posted: 01 May 2010 at 7:39am |
 RyanTN wrote:
WOULD. NOT. BUDGE! Thanks for all of the ideas everyone. I hit it with penetrating oil twice a day for week. Tried some heat. All I had was a propane torch, don't have a cutting torch, yet. I know it didn't get it hot enough. I tried double nutting it...then vice grips--NOTHING! A few more days of penetrating oil. I tried the all thread nut- NOPE. Then I moved up to drilling and an easy out-aka stud remover. It still would not move and the easy out finally split the bolt in two. I am trying to collapse what's left with a punch, and so far no luck. I think the next move is to drill it out and install a helicoil. Thanks again for all the ideas! |
Ryan,
without a firewrench I suspect that the results of your adventure were predetermined. some of the guys suggested heating the casting around the bolt (not the bolt) and then spraying with penetrating fluid of some kind, which is what I do, but you need sufficient heat to bring the mass of the casting the bolt is in almost cherry red.
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 01 May 2010 at 9:06am |
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I deal with fastener situations like this frequently. I wire-brush it clean, thread or slide a nut on, and hit it with a wire-feed welder... more often than not, my portable box with gasless wire. I get the fastener good-and-hot while welding, then let the fastener cool... the casting absorbs the heat and expands... I hit the bolt again, after about three cycles, touch the fastener with a candle (draws paraffin in), then put a socket on the nut and turn it out.
Considering everything else around, I'd avoid using a cutting-mode torch, lest you wind up with dross in the workings... or something on fire that really shouldn't be on fire. Heating the casting with a MAPP flame is a good idea, but anytime you're putting in that sort of heat, it WILL draw your penetrant out. Apply penetrant as the metals are in a cooling-stage, not heating.
The best penetrant I've found, is a three-way mix of hydraulic fluid, diesel fuel, and acetone. It is VERY aggressive.
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Lance/SC
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Posted: 01 May 2010 at 9:24am |
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O. K., if all else fails, use the old torch and candle trick. Use a regular hand held propane torch. Sneak in the house and get one of your wifes candles she keeps around in case the lights go out. Heat the bolt good and hot. It doesn't have to glow red but get it really hot then touch the candle to the bolt at the bottom. You can hear it sucking the wax into the threads. Have the vise grips ready to lock onto and try to turn it. You may have to do it a couple of times but it will work.
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gary ny
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Posted: 01 May 2010 at 10:32am |
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An old weilder told me to heat the bolt to red hot and then hit hit with a hammer a couple of good hit then let cool the get on it with some good vice grips and just keep working it back and forth.I have use that advice for yrs with alot of success but you will need more than a propane torch.I like using a brazing tip in the tight areas to control the flame better but watch out for scale .
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