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TomD 
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Joined: 15 Aug 2015
Location: United States
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 Topic: D15 engine
Posted: 15 Aug 2015 at 11:18am |
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Was tilling when the engine started to knock and lock. Oil looks like new and full. My guess the oil pump stopped working? Help
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DougS
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 15 Aug 2015 at 11:24am |
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You're going to have to tear it apart anyway if the engine locked.
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allismanamp
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Posted: 15 Aug 2015 at 12:45pm |
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Dad had a c Allis he rebuilt the motor on and the same thing happens come to find out he put a new filter and oil in it after the rebuild and the Napa filter did not allow correct oil flow
The filter was hollow where that little rod is suppose to push into
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~AMP~
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TomD
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Posted: 15 Aug 2015 at 12:58pm |
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Thanks much-sounds a whole lot better than oil pump. I'll check it out
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Orange Blood
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Posted: 16 Aug 2015 at 8:19am |
 TomD wrote:
Thanks much-sounds a whole lot better than oil pump. I'll check it out |
I think you misunderstood, if the filter is incorrect, that may have caused the problem, but the knocking and the locked engine are the result, and that damage is permanent. You will need to tear into the engine to fix the knocking and locked problem.
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desertjoe
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Posted: 16 Aug 2015 at 9:02am |
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Hey Tom,,,,tough luck for sure,,,BUT,,,it may not be as bad as it sounds ( no pun intended),, a lot depends on how long it ran while knocking till it locked up,,,,(fingers crossed here for you) and it IS Sunday,,,,!!!
At any rate, you're gonna have to open it up to find the problem which could be part of the valve train, the governor/camshaft area or the crankshaft/rods, or even the clutch/flywheel. Every rotating section will need to be looked at til you find the culprit.
The one thing is not to try to "force" the engine over any more by pulling it as you may do more serious harm to what you already got. My thoughts would be to pull the valve cover and have a close look there first. Is there any oil on the rocker arms,?? That right there will tell you if it was an oiling issue or not and may yet be a governor/camshaft issue or a clutch/flywheel interference. If no oil up on the rockers,,,you gotta pull the oil pan and start pulling the rods one at a time,,,then the mains. Obviously the lack of oil will point to the oil pump or the pickup assembly. GOOD LUCK and keep us informed,,,,!!!
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 16 Aug 2015 at 9:22am |
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You're almost certainly looking at an overhaul because the damage is done. Where abouts are you? If you're near Kansas City, Don Bradley can get you running again, I'm just east of Des Moines, and there's a number of other guys scattered around who can get you fixed.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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TomD
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Posted: 16 Aug 2015 at 12:00pm |
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Thanks to all. Got a Fram PH8A filter,turned the engine over with a pry bar on the flywheel,put oil in the filter housing,put the new filter on and then turned it over. Started right away with good oil pressure, Thanks again for all your input. Tom
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DrAllis
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Posted: 16 Aug 2015 at 1:10pm |
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Something about this event just isn't adding up. You don't know for sure you even lost oil pressure, right?? Was the oil pressure gauge at zero??? I'm thinking you've overheated it from a loose fan belt and I assume you weren't looking at the temperature gauge either??? or does it even work?? Installing a new oil filter hasn't repaired anything.
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DougS
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Posted: 16 Aug 2015 at 2:30pm |
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You ran the engine until it seized, supposedly due to no oil pressure? That *had* to do some engine damage. You had to use a pry bar to unstick the engine? I have a feeling that you're going to be back here asking where you can purchase an engine overhaul kit.
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Dave H
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Posted: 16 Aug 2015 at 6:17pm |
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I don't understand also, but as a minimum I would look at the screen going into the oil pump. It don't matter what the oil looks like it is what the screen looks like.
some idle thoughts from experience.
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JFon101231
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Posted: 21 Jun 2016 at 5:07pm |
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How would one get at this screen? Have a new to me tractor with low pressure...
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 21 Jun 2016 at 5:21pm |
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As Dr Allis said those engines will lock up quickly from overheating,tilliing works the engine pretty good.
Now that's its running again pull the valve cover to see if oil is flowing.
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JFon101231
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Posted: 21 Jun 2016 at 5:37pm |
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??? I'm not sure how that answers my question. My tractor is not locked up, but I'd like to check this screen based on low oil pressure and unknown history of the machine.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 21 Jun 2016 at 6:53pm |
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Any oil pump suction screen is accessed by engine oil pan removal. Some tractors that is an easy job. Some not so easy. Cleaning of the oil pump suction screen isn't normally the cure for low oil pressure. What model are you talking about and what are your concerns??
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JFon101231
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Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 8:32am |
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Oh, duh. I was under the impression this was some other screen in the block somewhere etc. As it turns out, the oil pressure was good, gauge is bad. But did find it milky so seems as though this machine has some head gasket issues :( Machine is the backhoe version of D15 Series II, think it is called I-600?
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 8:50am |
JFon101231 wrote:
Oh, duh. I was under the impression this was some other screen in the block somewhere etc. As it turns out, the oil pressure was good, gauge is bad. But did find it milky so seems as though this machine has some head gasket issues :( Machine is the backhoe version of D15 Series II, think it is called I-600? |
The milky could just be condensation,I'd change oil and run it to find out for sure.
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JFon101231
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Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 9:05am |
I plan to, but I should say it was milky with clearly some "water" in there more than I think would come from just sitting. I.e. pouring out what drained and the water was enough that you could tell what you were pouring back into the jug. I checked coolant in radiator and it was oily also, so I'm thinking the two have been mixing. Have to clear that out too though then see what happens.
Perhaps its only a small leak... based on my skill level (never torn an engine apart) and a place to do the work (outside), its not something that I'd really want to do unless I had to. Not familiar with this tractor, but I assume that would be only explanation right? And only way to fix it would be pull the whole motor, as pulling the head and slapping on a new head gasket probably won't seal great/long anyway?
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DiyDave
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Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 10:42am |
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A 4 cyl allis gas motor is one of the easiest ones, ever, to do. Get a shop manual from agco, and get to it. About a 2hr job for removal, Take the head to a machine shop, and let them go through it, and pressure check it, to see if it holds pressure on the coolant. Meanwhile, fill the block up with water, and see if the level drops. If it does, most likely culprit is bad cyl sleeve seals, at the bottom...
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DrAllis
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Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 11:30am |
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So, let's actually determine if the cooling system is actually going down (antifreeze) versus rain water or condensation. An oil sample taken will determine if there is antifreeze or not, but if the radiator never goes down, it must not be leaking coolant.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 1:13pm |
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Also finding oil in the cooling system is not necessarily an indication of a problem. In the days before good antifreeze coolant it was directed in the owner's manual to add 'water soluble oil' to the radiator. Like Dr. A says, figure out if it's actually loosing coolant first.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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