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Allis B Brake Drum |
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RLBPA
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Somerset PA Points: 33 |
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Posted: 29 Mar 2010 at 9:11pm |
I am replacing final drive seals in my 39 B project. I have one side completed and back on. That brake drum was to say the least difficult. I needed about 12,000,000 pounds of force on my long reach puller, lots of Kroil and about a day long soaking before it would move. The other final drive brake drum is making the first one look easy. Its been soaking for several days with the puller on. I have tapped on the puller, tapped on the shaft, tapped on the drum and even lightly heated the drum with the torch. Does anyone have any suggestions?
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 82473 |
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i have never used a puller. i stick a power wire brush down the hole and clean up the shaft so the drum will not hit any crud once it starts to move. take the setscrew all the way out and put penetrant into the hole. i take the outboard bearing cap off, block the case with the shaft sticking straight up, and drive the shaft out. i use a 5 pound hammer and a brass plate. I have had a couple that had the splines distored a few thousands doing this and had to file the end slightly to slide back into the bevel gear shaft... i also put one in the 20 ton press and pushed the shaft out, but its hard to hold the housing in my small press.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 82473 |
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the "shock" load does much more than a constant "press".
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Dick L
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087 |
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Light heat is for warming a can of soup. It takes real heat to expand the drum faster than the shaft.
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