forklift problems

does any body know about these?

The transmission disconnect-on-brake-pedal is called an INCHING control.

To understand it fully, here's a little history:

Early equipment was frequently built using truck and agricultural engines, transmissions, and clutches. As time went by, manufacturers determined that the frequent direction changing, starting, and stopping required a different philosophical approach, in substantial part to the fact that such operation put a substantial amount of wear and tear on clutches, brakes and gears.

The FIRST major improvement for forklifts and loaders were to be set up with 'shuttle shift' direction control... meaning, when you moved the direction shifter, it was a straight line from forward to reverse. Stab clutch, slap lever other way, release clutch. Another improvement- integrate the clutches into the forward-neutral-reverse shifter, so no clutch-stabbing required. Next, was to set up the machine with brakes that could be modulated while approaching a load or dump point, then held to maintain position while loading or dumping.

NEXT... these machines are hydraulic... which means, the engine drove a pump which operated the lift, tilt, dumping cylinders. That means that while you're sitting still, engine idling, you're waiting for the pump to pump oil. Solution, is to stab the throttle to run the forks or boom up, tilt the bucket, or whatever. What you DIDN'T want to do, is blast off for mars while doing that gas-pedal stab, SO... you'd shift to neutral, hold the brake, and stab the gas.

Next improvement... incorporate a gadget that declutched the driveline while foot planted on brake, so you could rev engine to lift, tilt, curl, whatever, and then 'inch' forward by simply lifting foot off the brake.

Basically, every modern forklift, loader, and material handing machine has an inching control. USUALLY, that's built into one, or both brake pedals. Forklifts frequently have one brake, and one INCHING brake. You'll use the INCHING brake like it's a clutch... push it in to stop and hold, then ease up to creep forward or back. If you're on a hill, and need to go up the incline from a dead stop, put one foot on inching brake, and plant it. Put other foot on brake-only brake. Release inching pedal, step on gas, then ease up on the brake... it'll climb the hill. IF you do this with just the inching pedal, you might find that depressing the inching pedal slightly will allow the truck to roll backwards before you develop enough engine push to shove you (and whatever's on the forks) up that slope.

My Hyster H50H has the inching control integrated into the brake pedal. The H50H's transmission consists of a torque converter driving a dual-planetary reduction that yields forward or reverse by virtue of multi-disk clutch 'brakes' on the planetaries... the inching control limits servo pressure to each of the brakes, so in effect, you've got 'clutch' control and brake control in a 'blended' control of that footpedal. Push pedal down hard, you'll have full brakes, and no thrust. As you ease up, thrust comes up, brakes drop off, and eventually, you'll have full thrust... all while keeping the throttle mashed to the floor. If you've ever driven a forklift with a Ford 172 or 192 Industrial four cylinder, you'll understand why the throttle is mashed to the floor.

My Clark IT-60, about a decade older, has a separate inching pedal, not integrated into the brake pedal. The IT-60's inching pedal basically just dumps a torque converter. Admittedly, the Clark does it with a very minimum of... well... finesse. It's like... putting a Buick Station Wagon in neutral, throttling up to about 2500rpm, and bumping the shifter between D and R... but instead of being 4300lbs, you're 18,500lbs.

Any more questions?

I pulled the tranny, and the conection plate between the tourk converter and the fly wheel is busted so there is no linkage between the two. there was nuts welded to the conveter housing that brohe loose and eventually all the bolts that go into the fly wheel broke out of the plate. I am not quite sure where to start.

I need to get a flex plate for sure any info would help

model: fl 50 24 ps
sn:17210516
thanks I also will need a torque converter
appreciate the help

cool thank you

so far so good ha ha thanks alot

i also have an allis chalmers forklift model FL50-24PS
                                       serial # 17210510
can you tell me what motor this is & where i can get parts?
it has coolant in the oil.

I will also say that Komatsu forklift will help you in dealing with flywheel and a converter problem well..One of my colleague using it and he had a great experience with it.

Edited by wesleygerald - 01 May 2014 at 1:52am

got the converter rebuilt she should be runnin today - hopefully