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Don(MI) 
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 Topic: Flywheel on WD, what would you do? (Pics)
Posted: 25 Sep 2010 at 9:02pm |
Well, the transmission tower is back together again, that was a good lesson on what not to do, almost glad that happened because I got a little education on detent springs, ball, and everthing else in that dang tower. Works good now though, whew!
Anyways, we pulled the engine tonight, and I have a new replacement pressure plate and clutch plate from Tony to put on. We did notice one possible problem though, The inside of the flywheel has cracks going outward. The cracks are no longer than 1", and there are quite a few. See pictures.....
My question is this, I am not sure when they started, or how really, but do you think there is a good possibilty this will continue to get worse? Should I change it out, or are they all like this? The tractor won't be seeing much work as long as I own it, but I do plan on putting the mounted picker on it, and thats all it will be used for.
What would you do?
Thanks again guys! Don
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 25 Sep 2010 at 9:10pm |
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The cracks are heat cracks caused from the clutch slipping. It don't look good to me but I'm no expert. My clutch slipped a couple times on me years ago so I pulled the engine and found bad cracks all around. I got a replacement. The replacement had maybe 6 very small cracks and has worked fine for 15 years. The original in my 35 WC wasn't looking cracked at all till I made a clean-up cut on it in the lathe.
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 25 Sep 2010 at 9:13pm
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LouSWPA
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Posted: 25 Sep 2010 at 9:18pm |
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I'm like Charlie, no expert, but I would replace it, I can't see it getting anything but worse. That's a spinning mass, subject to centrifugal forces
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I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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Jeff Z. NY
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Posted: 25 Sep 2010 at 9:21pm |
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Normal heat cracks. I wouldn't worry about them.
If it makes you sleep better at night take it to a machine shop or NAPA to be resurfaced. The cracks are not usually very deep.
Note, Not long after you put in a brand new flywheel it will have cracks in it. I have never seen one from cars, trucks or tractors without cracks in them.
Edited by Jeff Z. NY - 25 Sep 2010 at 9:30pm
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Don(MI)
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Posted: 25 Sep 2010 at 9:32pm |
Wow Jeff, thats kind of what I like to hear! I wondered if all of them were like that,
I noticed they were not deep, and that flange widens out alot outward.
Any other opinions?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 25 Sep 2010 at 9:44pm |
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Run it. You didn't even know it was cracked until you took it apart.
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Bertman
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Posted: 25 Sep 2010 at 10:08pm |
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take it and have it sufaced its FINE
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dannyraddatz
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Posted: 26 Sep 2010 at 6:31am |
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Don,
I can't tell for sure but it may be a good time to do a front and rear main seal. I bought mine from a AGCO dealer and it was 10% more that NAPA but turned out perfect!
Danny
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Danny Raddatz
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 26 Sep 2010 at 6:54am |
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I didn't look that close at the engine picture till Danny mentioned the seals but it looks like you have an exhaust leak between the head and the manifold. I had leaks there and up front and didn't think much about it cause I didn't use the tractor much. When I got around to replacing the gasket it only lasted a couple months cause the manifold and head were both burned back. I pulled the head, resurfaced it a and cleaned up the manifold.
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dadsdozerhd5b
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Posted: 26 Sep 2010 at 7:36am |
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definately take it to be resurfaced at least. it will make the clutch disc last alot longer if it has a true surface to ride against. don't be surprised if it may have been cut before and be too thin. the cracks are from the clutch slipping, probably starting out pulling big loads. if you don't cut it, the clutch may chatter and you will kick yourself.
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 26 Sep 2010 at 7:58am |
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Don, The flywheel needs to be turned and the top of the step needs to get it so the difference between the two are back in specifications, That is based on the look of the clutch disc. Can you post a pic of the p plate so I can see it too. I'd put a new ring gear on there too. Don
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Don(MI)
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Posted: 26 Sep 2010 at 9:26am |
Don here is the P plate and clutch plate, I have new replacements I plan on putting in.
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 26 Sep 2010 at 9:35am |
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Have it refaced, ground to a flat surface. If it was nine I would be using a button clutch instead of fiber. But to each his own. And as it is a recessed clutch both mounting surface and friction area need to be cut same depth .
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Rick
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Posted: 26 Sep 2010 at 9:40am |
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Don(MI), I believe Don(MO) was referring to the pressure plate side of the cover assembly...that's the part he was wanting to look at to see how cracked up it was,if at all. The flywheel might have gotten hot and cracked previously,before this clutch was installed,with the one before it from slipping. As for the flywheel...to each his own. Once resurfaced it'll probably be just fine,however,with thousands of WD/WD45's out there,I would opt for a good used one that wasn't cracked. Rick
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 26 Sep 2010 at 9:47am |
Thanks Coke, That's what I was trying to say about the flywheel.
Don, I think you need to get the flywheel cut because it's not true across the friction part of flywheel.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 26 Sep 2010 at 9:49am |
Rick, It's about time you got on here a straited us out. LOL
Don
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Don(MI)
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Posted: 26 Sep 2010 at 1:44pm |
Yes, I thought about that after I put those on here, I was in a hurry to take off and just got back now. Here are the other pictures of the back side of the pressure plate.
Edited by Don(MI) - 26 Sep 2010 at 1:45pm
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powertech84
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Posted: 26 Sep 2010 at 1:49pm |
Cracks in the flywheel are very common and don't hurt anything. I see it all the time. Have the flywheel resurfaced and put it back together.
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Rick
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Posted: 26 Sep 2010 at 2:25pm |
Don(MI), Please e-mail me direct at rickinmo@socket.net ,so I can chat with you a moment. It'll be worth your time. Rick
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Mike(SEIN)
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Posted: 26 Sep 2010 at 3:55pm |
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while you're in there I'd put a new seal in the front of the torque tube, just so you don't have to pull that engine later.Don't ask me how I know.
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j.w.freck
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Posted: 26 Sep 2010 at 9:04pm |
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resurface the f/wheel.the pressure plate is toast.fingers are worn and many blue areas.also rep.the throw out bearing and the clutch disc.you will sleeo better when you do
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Brian F(IL)
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Posted: 27 Sep 2010 at 8:43am |
Don, I just got my tractor put back together. I'd had two of the 1/2" bolts that hold the flywheel onto the crankshaft come out and the other two were broke off. Make sure to use some loctite when reassembling. My mechanic said he'd never seen that happen before. FYI.
Brian F(IL)
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 27 Sep 2010 at 3:32pm |
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Personally, there wouldn't be anyway I would re-install that flywheel without at least having it resurfaced and miked! Putting a new clutch on a flywheel like that is a waste of your time and money for that matter. Cracks are one thing, but look at all the hotspots gall & chatter marks that are in that flywheel! That thing is toast at present. You'll ruin the new disc and put hot spots in the new PP again because of it slipping, and you'll have four pieces of junk. The old junk clutch & PP, and the new junk clutch & PP.
Its your Tractor, but if you do right the first time, you won't be back in there to do that particular job again.....
Steve@B&B
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CJohnS MI
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Posted: 27 Sep 2010 at 3:43pm |
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I have pulled down engines for other repairs that looked worse & closed my eyes and put it all back together with no issues.
If I'm putting in a new disc, then I AM putting in a new throw-out bearing AND pilot bearing/bushing.
That flywheel and pressure plate don't bother me. If the spring towers were uneven, or the fingers twisted or flatted off on the pressure plate, or the flywheel obviously dished - THAT would bother me.
I got a piece of paper right here with Grant's face on says that over half the "un-restored" tractors out there - not just ACs - look that way or worse. And the clutches work fine.
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 27 Sep 2010 at 3:48pm |
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As for pilot bearing and throw out bearing. Recall how much bother it was to get them exposed, that you have to do when they give up. Seems like cheap labor saving to do them now.
Gerald J.
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