final drive bearings lube and sprocket support

I'm curious for opinions on the best method to pre-lube the final bearings, especially the upper pinion shaft bearings. I'm tempted to use thin bearing grease, as I know for sure it will not run off, if I have delays in assembling the whole final train. I can also use lithium assembly lube....it's thinner than grease and I've used it on every engine bearing for the last 30 yrs. It's especially good for priming oil pumps on those old stubborn Ford and Chrysler big-blocks with long pickup tubes. Next, I have to replace the outer 'support' bearing on the sprocket shaft. Worn out, but well oiled. Wouldn't have expected that bearing to wear out so fast (I don't really know how old it is), because the 'main' bearings on the sprocket shaft looked really good. That support bearing is around 300$ from what I've looked at so far. I found that the only reason my final seals were leaking was clogged vent tubes (venting inside the steering brake compartments) Air pressure building up inside the final case had no where to go except through the sprocket seals. One more thing, this 'neoprene cement' used on the seals, what are we using today for this purpose? Anyways, with the left clutch pulled out, I can feel the slack in the right final geartrain, and it's more than I like to feel. Probably have to pull that side down and replace some bearings there before I end up with shrapnel like the left pinions. Buddy said 'you could have bought a cheap Caterpillar for what you're spending". I said, 'yeah, but then I'd have a cheap Cat.....I'd rather have a expensive Allis Chalmers". 

I used a permatex sealant when i fixed a final on my 16.  I dont recall which specifically but it was similar to hi tack or indian head but does not harden. never had any trouble.  I second lubriplate,  once you fill the final with oil it will migrate out to the bearings anyway and lubriplate will disappear into the oil

Edited by Codger - 17 May 2023 at 7:01am

Found several on-line sources for 'neoprene cement', ordered one from a surf-shop. Being new to this type of seal, it appears that the main purpose of the glue is to hold the seal parts together long enough to properly assemble them. It may help hold the 'bladder' in place later in the areas where it sits over the pins. My seal came out in sections, glue was long gone, and aside from some shrinkage in the bladder/bellows thingy, it was intact, and shielded the outer bearing well. After working on hundreds of different machines for my whole life, I have never seen a seal where two metal rings worked against each other to form the moving element. My thoughts from pictures was that they were some sort of Bakelite or carbon rings rubbing together. 

steel on steel seals are very common for Industrial equip... All the LARGE ALLIS dozers used them on the final drive shaft.... 21C, 31, 41B ....... the ceramic face on ONE SIDE is common for higher speed water pumps, chemical pumps, etc.

Yes, it does dry quickly not giving much time to work with it. Once the can is opened, the product does not have much of a shelf life but can be extended if you screw the lid back down onto the can using a plastic sandwich bag with a hole punched, (for the applicator brush to pass through) sealing the threads and keep it in the refrigerator. Allow to warm before the next use.

Some of your suggestions remind me of one of my 'off-label' usages......Marvel Mystery red air tool oil for drilling holes. It works really well, and better than many 'cutting fluids' sold at most welding and machine supplies. To my original question, I figure that it's a good idea to dip the bearings in clean oil, then add some Lubriplate for a longer-term insurance on start-up. It's important to coat the entire bearing to prevent air from reaching any part. 

Sorry to be off topic, but...

WF owner wrote: Sorry to be off topic, but... I know John Deere calls it corn head grease, but I'm sure JD gets it from some supplier (refiner). If someone tried to buy it from someone other than JD, what would you ask for?

NLGI #0 grade