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Enlightenment amidst faulty engineering philosophy

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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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    Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 10:02am
Today's story is about Furnaces...

My last biz trip was to Canada... started off with a flight to Toronto via Detroit.  Landed, and got a message that the furnace at home was down.

For the next nine days, I instructed my wife and son on how to 'limp' it through... and when I got home, it was clear that the furnace wasn't gonna recover... couldn't tell exactly why at the time, but all the functions seemed appropriate, but the fire was 'backing up' into the burner box, rather than going into the heat exchanger like it should.

While sitting in my hotel room, I found a new-old-stock furnace on Craigslist, and ordered a propane conversion kit.  Within a few hours of hitting the ground, I had the furnace in back of my truck, to the company shop, and made a steel frame stand to mount it on my basement floor... stand-alone... no ductwork.  I had my propane line transfered to it, exhaust piped out the wall (PVC), and warming the house up within a day... and good thing too...

Most of our flowers had wilted and dropped their leaves.  CO monitors never went off, and nobody passed out, but the nitric acid was very noticeable.  Two weeks later, they're coming back okay.

The old furnace looked perfectly fine everywhere, but between the upper and lower half of heat exchanger is a basically permanent cover (can't be accessed without totally evicerating the furnace) that I took off, and found it heavy full of a brown dirt...  it'd still flow exhaust, but not damned much.

The brown dirt... well, we live in the country, along a gravel road, surrounded by corn fields... and the furnace gets it's combustion air from a PVC pipe out the north side wall... where one of her flower gardens is (they're everywhere)... well treated with fluffly brown compost every spring.

So... the furnace sucked in dust from fields, roads, and the flower garden.

I'm in process of new furnace ductwork and total plan (it needed some re-engineering anyway), and the NEW setup will NOT be drawing air from outside...
It'll get it from the basement... where the older-type 'low efficiency' furnaces got their air.
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 10:04am
So file it under "Failed Engineering Philosophy":  Ultra-High Efficiency homes.  Here's why:

Back in the older days... we had houses, with furnaces in the basements... and flues going up chimneys, that would allow the burner's exhaust to draft naturally out via convection. 
We added insulation, and tightened up the windows and doors a bit to make it more comfortable... and we put additional heat-exchanger layers in the furnaces to grab more heat from the fuel we burn... but this made it difficult to keep good airflow for the burner, so we added draft inducers.

Nowdays, we take our homes... seal 'em up really, really tight... because it saves more energy.  We make the furnace draw it's combustion air from outside, because pulling it from inside causes the furnace to suck air through doors and windows.

Somewhere along the way, we discovered that the air quality in our homes went down... we found RADON gas accumulating in the basements, so we added fancy continuous blowers that suck air from cavities under the basement slab, and pump it out through a stack up in the roof.

The failed philosophy is that there was something wrong with drawing COMBUSTION air from deep down at the basement floor, and drawing it up the chimney using convection... not only when the fire was burning, but a little when it was not. 

The failure was that in assuming that heat goin'  up was a waste... that somehow replacing it with electric draft inducers and special blowers that run 24/7, and increasing the complexity and dramatically reducing the maintainability of a simple system was somehow a benefit.

The cost of energy may be high... but the alternative economics (adding the draft inducer, RADON mitigation, etc) and the cost and complexity of maintenance rapidly adds up.

Did I mention that I live in the country?  The biggest cost we pay, is the rapid loss of self-sufficiency... in terms of knowledge and skills, ability to take care of ourselves.  When there is no infrastructure for one to depend upon, and nobody else to come to rescue, one must be their own saviour... or as the literature lovers say "Rugged independance and self-determination".

Carry that over into ANY technology...  You got remote start?  stinks when the door-fob for that electronic-pushbutton car goes dead... my remote start consists of a pair of Addidas and a half-worn-out key.  LOL 

Oh... and my backup generators have HAND CRANKS... Wink


Edited by DaveKamp - 05 Jan 2019 at 10:09am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 10:17am
and...
we need  BIGGER furnaces in our houses cause we've been told to replace incandescent bulbs with CFLs and LEDs....
Incandescent bulbs supplied a LOT of 'local' heat when reading  a book, newspaper or doing something that required having  a light on.
NOW, them new fangled 'have to have' bulbs DON'T generate 'local heat', so we have to bump up the stat higher and higher to keep warm while reading a book or newspaper
..
AND since we're using less electricity ,the hydro companies jack UP the rates, to compensate for the loss of profits cause we're using  less....



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chaskaduo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 11:53am
The proverbial wheel
 


Edited by chaskaduo - 05 Jan 2019 at 11:56am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 2:20pm
Dave what are you thinkingWink????  You could change the balance of the whole universe. Darn old independent non conformist. We need 100's of thousands more like you. 

How are the politicians ever going to keep you in line???  Oh they can have Shameless bury your house in "pretty" so the smoke cannot escape the chimney your so covered. Evil Smile But you probably have a piece of pipe squirreled away to just put it up higher. Angry So you escape again.LOLLOLLOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 3:07pm
 I expect each of us is struggling in our own way with having to "make do" to counter the effects of "Progress",,,,,,I don't have a thing against progress,,,Clap,,,until that progress forces me to change my life long habits and then winds up costing me more money to do what I was doing with less Progress. 
Case in point,,,I've  got ole Hungry plumb upset with me cause the "outdated, old fashioned, energy wasting 100 watt light bulb that I had been using to help keep ole Hungry from freezing in his dog house,,,,finally after 3 years,,,,,burned up,,,I mean,,it burned the heck up like in NO HEAT. I went to Walmart bout 8 PM last night and,,,,and,,,you guessed it,,,they no longer sell them old fashioned heat producing bulbs,,,,!!!! The person in hardware dept told me them bulbs went the way of obama,,,sheeesh,,,!
 I come home and finally luck onto an Old Fashion bulb on an old drop light I was saving and got ole Hungry settled in bout 2 hours later,,,took a while to slide my big azz into and out of his dog house to change the friggin bulb. Gonna have to look in Ebay  cause I don't want to have to use an electric, gobbling, expensive, energy wasting, electric heater,,,Dang Progress,,,,!!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 3:37pm
DJ... why can'tyou use one of them IR 'heat lamp' bulbs that are sold for chicken coops and such? They also keep your burger and fries hot while you pay !

Jay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill_MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 8:02pm
Dave, just put ya a K&N filter on the outside inlet, you'd have the only 'hot rod' house in the whole county!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan IL&TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 8:12pm
Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:

and...
we need  BIGGER furnaces in our houses cause we've been told to replace incandescent bulbs with CFLs and LEDs....
Incandescent bulbs supplied a LOT of 'local' heat when reading  a book, newspaper or doing something that required having  a light on.
NOW, them new fangled 'have to have' bulbs DON'T generate 'local heat', so we have to bump up the stat higher and higher to keep warm while reading a book or newspaper
..
AND since we're using less electricity ,the hydro companies jack UP the rates, to compensate for the loss of profits cause we're using  less....





Jay it's all relative. You being way up north would not mind the increased heat load of those old fashioned bulbs in the summer but down here they make a noticeable difference in my electric bill in the summer months by not adding to my heat load. I figure they paid for themselves in just a couple of years. I like them.😀
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 8:46pm
What I hate is all them fancy little switches on the riding lawn mower.. You got to be setting in the seat, blade off, foot on the clutch before the motor will crank.. Lift you butt off the seat in the yard and motor stops!!!!......... most of my old switches are kept in the DUMPSTER in the barn lot..... Same for seat belt alarms in the pickup !
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 10:41pm
Originally posted by Bill_MN Bill_MN wrote:

Dave, just put ya a K&N filter on the outside inlet, you'd have the only 'hot rod' house in the whole county!!


Well, actually...

When I did the rebuild on my '40's era Brunner 4-cylinder air compressor, I fitted the intake with a combination paper and foam cannister filter pair to fit a Shop-Vac.  That filter's capacity is substantially higher (like... two orders of magnitude higher) than the Brunner will ever pull, so it'll draw clean air forever, even in my dusty garage.

I'll probably do a similar setup for the furnace, but still, I'm drawing from the inside, not the outside.  According to the documentation, it'll go from 96% AFUE down to 93.6% AFUE as a result...

2.4%... Whoopie...  I figure that 2.4% will cost me an extra hmmm... $3.07 per heating season, but maintain the heat exchanger's performance (rather than steadily degrade it) and increase it's service life by several years or more.

Sometimes, less is more.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 12:19am
I replaced all the CFL and incandescent lamps in the house and shops with LEDs over the course of about three years starting six years ago... and for several reasons... first was to substantially reduce the power load on my generators under emergency power... but the second was to reduce the amount of additional air-conditioning requirements.

It did both.... extremely well.

Downside?  they were a bit more expensive (much more then, than now, anyway).  They generate lots of Radio frequency noise.  Won't bother most people, but I'm a HAM Radio operator, so it matters a WHOLE LOT to me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 6:46am
Up here, 'way up North', according to Stan....haha, I've replaced most every bulb with T8s and LEDs.  Hydro company had a scam that my business qualified for. 5 years ago THEY replaced my T12 tubes with T8s and new ballasts, 2 years ago they replaced my old bulbs for LEDS ! All 23W, dimmable ones! About 2 weeks after the LED install, some 'magically' moved into my house.....
The problem we have here is everytime we reduce power consumption, they jack the rates up, so we..the consumers STILL pay $$$, the bill doesn't go DOWN...sigh...
rant over...
oh yeah 'smart' meters don't allow customers to 'load shed' anymore either...

Jay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 8:05am
My word Dave, maybe you should just give in and get on one or more of the many government programs that offer assistance.  I am sure there is one somewhere that gives out free furnaces every couple of years.  Then you can also get free medications to cure your thinking problems, all at little or no cost to you.  ConfusedConfusedConfused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 9:42am
Originally posted by Orange Blood Orange Blood wrote:

My word Dave, maybe you should just give in and get on one or more of the many government programs that offer assistance.  I am sure there is one somewhere that gives out free furnaces every couple of years.  Then you can also get free medications to cure your thinking problems, all at little or no cost to you.  ConfusedConfusedConfused

Heee heee... 

I am, like most of the guys on this forum, a perpetual survivor... one who is proud to exist on his own capacity, through the power of his own conviction.

Thomas Jefferson wrote about US.  WE don't need Government Assistance...  Wink... We don't rely on the governement:

  The Government relies on US.




Edited by DaveKamp - 06 Jan 2019 at 9:43am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LouSWPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 10:12am
I replaced the florescent lights in the kitchen awhile back with LED replacement tubes from Wally World. not long after wife complained of headaches, said the flickering LED's was giving her headaches. I didn't notice the flickering until she said mentioned it, and the didn't bother me. But, then again, she spends more time in the kitchen than I do. replaced the LED's with new fluorescents and wife problems went away
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Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 10:49am
That's interesting, Louis...

I have not worked with TUBE replacements, especially not the 'troffer' type fixture replacements (like what you'd use in a kitchen or workshop fixture) but I have been studying the various replacements for CW-HO 60's used in our overhead sign applications.

MOST lights powered by AC will exhibit some amount of FLICKER, and you can visually detect it best when there's an older TV set, or a strobe light, or when taking a video or still picture with a digital camera.  it's strobing at line frequency.  Interesting thing here, is that your wife doesn't notice strobing with the FL lamps... but the strobing of an FL lamp is by far worse than just about any other illumination method.

MOST LEDs now run on DC.  There's a power supply which converts line AC to DC, and steps it down to lower voltage, where it feeds a string of LEDs.  The individual LEDs run on around 2.5v, so they connect 10 in series to get 25v, and feed them at the 25v level.  It's easy to tell when you've got this type of supply setup- when you turn off the switch, the light loses light quickly, but you'll still see a faint glow for a few seconds after they're off.

I suspect the flicker you got, has something to do with the lamp being powered in some 'other' way.  Do your replacements require changing out the florescent ballast?  If not, that's probably why.

I replaced our kitchen FL tube fixture with a complete LED dimmable fixture, and I checked it with a strobe... and it's perfect.  I put a dimming wall control on it because Ann said it was actually 'too bright'.  She was happy to see the FL fixture go... and when I took it out, she saw the burn mark around the ballast and knew that it wasn't long-for-the-world.

When I started my experimentation into LED lighting, she was INCREDIBLY resistant... (actually, worse).  I came up with the perfect test-plan:  If I could replace an incandescent or CFL WITHOUT her noticing, that meant it was good.

One thing people don't understand... is COLOR.  Color is important-  and high-efficiency lamps are high efficiency because they keep the light energy where you need it most- they don't generate infrared and ultraviolet.  Old lamps... especially incandescents... created a wide range of light frequencies, so it didn't cause anyone any serious problems... but LEDs are efficient because they don't waste energy sending out all the stuff outside our visual range.  Some people's eyes don't deal well with certain color ranges.  Fortunately, LEDS come in a fair range of color...  warm white is from 2600K up to 3800k or so, and cool white is from 3600 up to well... some can go to 6000k or so.  If you get a 'wrong' color range, it can make a person's eyes hurt.  My dining room is that way... the colors she chose for wall and ceiling don't LIKE a cool white, but a warm white isn't enough to make it look good.  I solved this by alternating two colors of lamp in the chandalier... half are in the 4k range, the other in the 5k.  Good mix.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 4:21pm
I changed all the 4 ft tube lights to screw in sockets about 15 years ago and started using the screw in CFLs about 60 watt equiv.... Within the last 5 years I have removed the screw in CFLs as they fail and replace with 60 watt equiv ( 9 watt) LEDs ( in grounps for 1-2-3 as needed) that look just like the old incandescent glass bulb, but they are white glass... and I normally use the DAYLIGHT bulbs which are in the 5000 K range of light. We like the DAYLIGTH in the kitchen, bedrooms and workshop... Us the lower 3500 K bulbs in the livingroom
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 4:47pm
THANKS guys!!  I really learned something today!
I've got a question though..... I had some fluorescent lights down in the laundry room and put in the 4' LED's.  When I turn the switch on, it takes a second or two before the light actually comes on.  Why the waiting time?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 4:56pm
Ted... are the 4' LEDs in the same fixtures that your fluorescent lamps were originally?
If so... did you have to remove the ballast and rewire the fixture?

If not, that means your LED lamp replacements are being powered by the FL ballast.

The fluorescent lamp ballast has two states... 'start' and 'run'.  In START state, the ballast applies low voltage AC to a pair of pins on each end of the lamp... this heats a filament heater at each end.  Once the temperature of those filaments gets high enough, the transformer's second mode (high voltage, low current) kicks in and strikes an arc from one end to the other...

Your LED lamps are probably delayed because the old ballast in your fixture is taking that long to toggle to 'run' mode.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 6:11pm
There are 2 kinds of LEDs for replace FL lamps. 1 uses the existing ballast, the other you need to remove the ballast. Then there's the 'which' ballasts do you have " Old school 1.2" bulbs( orginals...)or the electronic balasts used to power T8 or 'skinny' FL lamps.
This is one area where you MUST read the instructions....Smile

Jay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HD6GTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 6:57pm
DJoe, I been buying regular old hunnerd watt bulbs at Menard's. Gotta look for them, still on the shelf here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 7:26pm
 
 Hey Tom,,I checked the lumber yard to see if they had some old incandescent ones but no dice. We ain't gots a Menards here but,,,,but,,, i'm way overdue to go visit Ms big Ones at TSC,,,maybe she'll give me a special deal on bout 4 of them "old, out of style" bulbs,,,,,Clap
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LouSWPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 6:11am
Well David, I don't know the cause, but my assumption was the switching power supply that dropped the 120VAC to whatever working voltage was used. these were complete assemblies, not just a tube replacement, but the whole fixture. I have preformed the florescent tube to LED replacement modification else ware in the house with no problem.


I will say I am concerned because, after what happened with my wife, I removed them, and gave them to my son, along with a few other I had, still new in the box. Not long after that my son suffered a seizure at work and they discovered he had a brain tumor. Now I am not suggesting the lights caused the tumor, but I am concerned that the lights could cause another seizure.


anyways, just offering my experience, antidotal as it may be


In retrospect, it is possible there is no power supply at all, just a step down transformer and the low voltage AC fed directly to the LED's. I could see some flicker coming from that. I don't remember the color range, but they were a very bright white

Edited by LouSWPA - 07 Jan 2019 at 6:24am
I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 7:02am
By the way Lou, how is your son doing???
 
I wouldn't think stepped down AC only would do a very good job of firing an LED.  The duty cycle where it was the right polarity and magnitude would be less than 1/2 the time, and would flicker like crazy I'd think.....no juicetrician here, but that's how it reasons out in my mind.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 7:42am
Lou.. you got a proper GROUND to the fixture and power supply ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LouSWPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 10:25am
Originally posted by Tbone95 Tbone95 wrote:


By the way Lou, how is your son doing???
 
I wouldn't think stepped down AC only would do a very good job of firing an LED.  The duty cycle where it was the right polarity and magnitude would be less than 1/2 the time, and would flicker like crazy I'd think.....no juicetrician here, but that's how it reasons out in my mind.


He's holding his own. Had a set back over the holidays, he was briefly hospitalized with another seizure, but he is out now. Thanks for asking
I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 11:24pm
Well, there's lots of illumination out there that runs right off AC mains... I've worked on several LED 'engines' that were nothing more than long, long, long series strings... no rectification (they did it on their own) and no DC conversion... so the LEDs were gonna flicker at 60hz... because they were only on through half the cycle...

I have had a couple smaller lamps that had bad power supplies... and they're all switch-mode type now.  If a strobe reveals that the flicker is occurring at some frequency other that is an even order of line frequency (i.e. 15, 30, 60, 120hz), then it's probably something awry with a switching supply.

IMO, most consumer-grade SMPS units are lousy, starting with the design, continuing with components, and finishing in workmanship.  The imbaciles that believe iron-core transformers 'waste' energy, should be stripped of every accredation from high-school diploma up, for failure to pass 6th grade science.
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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jaybmiller View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan 2019 at 6:33am
re:
The imbaciles that believe iron-core transformers 'waste' energy, should be stripped of every accredation from high-school diploma up, for failure to pass 6th grade science.

gee Dave that's a tad harsh, but 100 % TRUE !Big smile

Ever since the 'space race', stuff has been getting smaller in order to increase profits, putting consumer coins into someone else's. One of the computers on my desk is the size of a USB drive,$20, sigh...
That being said, I did score some very pretty($$$) LED track or pendant style units last year. They are powered by a MASSIVE torroid transformer ,good for 20 amps! Has to be a 8" donut!! Dang heavy..a man's power supply ! Keep thinkng I should make a battery charger out of it,then I look at the Made in China, smart charger ,size of a DVM that only cost me $15.

Jay
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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