E/I Questions

I guess this is aimed mainly at Steve in NJ, but the rest of you can chime in on this.

I am thinking on installing the Petronix on my tractors because of the cheap junk out there, the points, condensor, rotor and caps.  Even the last set I got at NAPA was junk.  Lasted 2 months and on side of the points FELL OFF...

What are the problems with frying these systems?  I've heard the horror stories of jumping and putting chargers on them.  What is the truth on all of this?  If any of you DO jump yours, HOW do you hook up the cables, e.g. in what order do you hook up the leads?

Thanks ahead of time guys!

I have a hyster with a continental that I converted probably 20 years ago. It's been jumped and charged with no attention paid to the ignition system and she has never had an issue. And she sits outside 100% of the time, that reminds me, I should start her up and run her today.

put it into my D17 and WD45 after fighting it all last summer. Even had the dealer out 5 times at 150.00 a hour from the time they leave the shop to they get back. put EI in this fall after the dealer and surrounding dealers told me too. JD and caseih dealers in the area don't mess with points and condensers at all anymore. They put EI in and forget about it.
My sit out side under tarp and have never had an issue yet. the run better now than they have in the last couple of years.

Charlie, that is the way I also have always done it.  Started working in my Uncle's Shell station when I was about 12.  He showed me the RIGHT way to do a lot of things.  Gave me a real lesson on my first ever Power-Glide transmission.

I guess I'll make the plunge and change over on at least two of my tractors this spring.  My worker (WD45) and my mower (C).  I honestly don't know what I would do without either one of them!!

Brian Jasper co. Ia wrote: With electronic ignition comes higher secondary potential. You can take advantage of that by opening the plug gaps up. I run my CA at .045 now. It never fouls the plugs anymore and has never started so well.

Now that is interesting Brian!  I've never seen that in all the threads I've read on this issue.  THANKS!!

Lets put this one to bed...There is no magic here, no smoke and mirrors...Ive converted 11 engines with pertronix, best upgrade you can do. Points systems work, there is no argument. Points systems are a switch, they begin to "fail" as soon as they are used because of moving and consumable parts. Points only last so long and because of wear, need adjustment. A pertronix system is simply a Hall Effect box, a magnet, that builds a field and then delivers a spark then the field deteriorates and then the process starts over as things go round and round. No "transistors" or moving parts. No wear, no reason for failure except operator error(installation error). If you drive a car or truck, or have a lawn mower, rototiller, or any other gas engine built since about 1975, you are using a Hall Effect ignition system. How many have you had quit? Me, none. In fact, I'd make my own out of junkyard ignitions but its not worth it when Pertronix has done the R and D to have a unit that is installed in 10 minutes or less in many, many dizzys for usually around $100 bucks. Find a 3 ohm resistance coil(aka 12 volt coil) or buy the whole outfit from Steve the Jersey man and youre rockin. I spent 3 weeks in a coma 22 months ago after open heart surgery that was iffy, but SOME THINGS STILL MAKE SENSE, Trev.

Anyone have steves #?

The Pertronix E.I. was designed to work with the stock coil. As Brian mentioned, the Blaster coil that Pertronix offers is optional, but it does give you top performance and more "fire in the hole". The wider gap adds to that advantage which gives a much better explosion in each cylinder which of coarse leads to better combustion. Some coils that have been in service for a looong time can get hot because of the secondary starting to drop out, or its just plain tuckered out period! I don't push new coils or the optional Blaster coil. I leave that totally up to the customer when he or she purchases a E.I. kit.  I don't know what their budget is. If they ask me about a coil, I then tell them the benefits. Still up to them whether or not to make the extra purchase.

Now, for the jump starting thing. Tuck is right on with cable location. Here's the skinny on the E.I. and jump starting. Lots of times we're in a hurry, and we jump on our Tractors and we get that 'Rump" sound of a dead Battery. We jump off the Tractor and go for the jump box, Battery charger or cables. Whatever. The thing we forgot to do is TURN THE IGNITION KEY OFF. We jump the Tractor is BLAM! That spike of amperage goes through the key switch and drills that module! Internal melt down so to speak to the module. Now we go to turn the key on and YIKES! The key was already on. So we crank it anyways to try to start it, and it cranks great now, but doesn't fire. DRAT!!  Left the key on! That's why I always say, even if you're just gonna charge the Battery up because it sat for a long time, if your Tractor is equipped with an E.I. disconnect one of the Battery cables just for safety sake. You don't want to throw that money out the window that you spent on that E.I.  Be careful on what you do, and  you to will get mega years out of your E.I.   And that's the skinny on dat'.....
Steve@B&B
bb-customcircuits.com

For the early machines, I just need to know if its 6VPG, 12VPG, or 12VNG. For the D17-on up, I'll need the Distributor number.