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E gleaner motor for wd45
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Tom b 45 View Drop Down
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Joined: 24 Jul 2017
Location: Mo.
Points: 14 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tom b 45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: E gleaner motor for wd45
    Posted: 24 Jul 2017 at 7:21pm
I picked a e gleaner motor for my like new frame and gears 45
With after market wide front I am thinking about putting in the
Motor with the gleaner front and water pump so I can put the
Hydraulic pump on top it looks like I can make a block off plate for the pump so I can take the tank part off do you think
I can stuff it in their or will I have to add length to the frame?
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Tom b 45 View Drop Down
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Joined: 24 Jul 2017
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Points: 14 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tom b 45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2017 at 7:37pm
I PROBABLY PUT my last post about the gleaner motor in the wrong place please let me know I am new to the forum
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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8534 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2017 at 8:41pm
Tom,
 Welcome! seems like your post is in the right place, Someone will be along to give you the details on the Gleaner in a 45 frame.
 I think the crank is longer on the Gleaner. May require some machining?
DonMO could tell you.
Pictures would be great.
 Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DennisA (IL) View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Ridott IL.
Points: 2074 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DennisA (IL) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2017 at 8:52pm
I put an E Gleaner engine in a WD many years ago for someone. For the most part it was a simple switch. There are a couple of items that need to be change but it's been so long ago I just can't remember, sorry.
Thanks & God Bless

Dennis
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 21996 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2017 at 9:33pm
Lets forget about the hydraulic pump and just install the engine as-is. You will have to eliminate the hand crank shaft and move the radiator ahead 3 inches?? and make the hood longer and figure out how to make the radiator hoses work, cause they won't as it is configured. Now, you get that all done and then you go ahead and get your hydraulic pump stuck on there however you are going to do it.
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MACK View Drop Down
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009
Points: 7664 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2017 at 9:48pm
Drill WD water pump holes to 7/16 and use WD water pump, use WD front cover, bore WD front pulley so longer crank nose will go through, and turn oil line from block to filter up side down to clear steering shaft , then you are in business.      MACK
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
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Points: 3531 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2017 at 10:23pm
I did as Mac states, but before installing radiator- cranked the motor and set a hack saw on the front crank snout to cut it to WD specs. Took about a minute. You will need a block off plate when the fuel pump is removed.
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Joined: 17 Jul 2017
Location: MN
Points: 8 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Johnnypopper1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 2017 at 11:53pm
Getting my z block just about buttoned up. I cut the crankshaft down instead of bore out the pulley hub as Mack mentioned, it was faster for me to just cut it off. If I did it again I would machine out the pulley hub and leave the crank length. Push the pulley back closer to the seal and drilled a new set screw hole. Used the wd water pump, but had to remove a timing cover stud collar and used a shorter bolt to give the lower radiator hose clearance so it wasn't rubbing the hose. Here are some before and after pictures.


Edited by Johnnypopper1 - 24 Jul 2017 at 11:59pm
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Tom b 45 View Drop Down
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Joined: 24 Jul 2017
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Points: 14 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tom b 45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2017 at 8:10pm
Thanks to everyone who replied I have did the gleaner Change over using wd front and water pump but my belt ran off even wen I got my 45 pulley bored out but I never thought about cutting the crank off but I really want that double crank pulley for live hydurlic power what to do ? Thanks for all the input plus I have three e gleaner combine pumps so I want to use them
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Hillbilly6778 View Drop Down
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Joined: 01 Dec 2017
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Points: 10 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hillbilly6778 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2017 at 6:41pm
Do you have a picture of how the throttle linkage hooks into the governor? I just bought a Model D motor grader and it has the D17 out of Gleaner combine and they just have a janky universal throttle cable running from the carb to a plate they bolted in the cab. The correct linkage going from the carb around the fan side of the engine into the gov is there, but the linkage is missing going from the top hole in the gov to the original throttle control. The top hole of the gov appears to have a plug in it. Just wondering how yours it hooked up. I’ll post a couple pictures below.
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Hillbilly6778 View Drop Down
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Edited by Hillbilly6778 - 05 Dec 2017 at 6:47pm
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Hillbilly6778 View Drop Down
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Points: 10 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hillbilly6778 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2017 at 7:05pm
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