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Draining Anti-Freeze

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Ranse View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Draining Anti-Freeze
    Posted: 19 Dec 2022 at 4:05pm
I was going to temporarily drain the anti-freeze in my D10.  I drained the radiator first.  When I tried to drain the block not a drop came out.  This may be a stupid question, but will the block drain out through the radiator?  Otherwise I can't understand why I got nothing from the block.  Thanks.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2022 at 4:12pm
the antifreeze will run out of the HEAD and BLOCK down to the level of the radiator hose connection on the water pump... You may still have a quart or two in the block.. possibly below the block valve..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote B26240 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2022 at 4:46pm
I'll bet the lower part of the block is packed with sludge.   
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2022 at 5:14pm
Remove petcock and ram a piece of #9 wire up in there to free it up.
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Ranse View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2022 at 5:14pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

the antifreeze will run out of the HEAD and BLOCK down to the level of the radiator hose connection on the water pump... You may still have a quart or two in the block.. possibly below the block valve..

I just wonder if a quart or two is enough to crack it?  The antifreeze that was in it was good to +5 degrees.  According to our forecast for this weekend that might not be good enough.  That's why I drained it. 
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2022 at 5:46pm
being 60 years old the "CRUD" idea is well founded... remove the petcock and rod it out as mentioned, just to make sure.... yes, there will be a little left over and freezing should not break the block as it has room to expand.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2022 at 8:09pm
Yep, always pull the petcocks and rod them out good, sedimentation not only prevents drainage, it rapidly degrades cooling system performance.

As to wether a quart or two will CRACK the block, YES... especially if that quart is intermixed with crud.  Happens ALL the time, especially with marine engines... the crud makes the water into mud, which keeps it nicely in one area as the crystalline structure builds.  Water reaches it's maximum density at about 39F, as it freezes, it becomes less dense (it's expanding, right?)... expanding to about 9% greater volume, and it can exhibit well over 100,000psi of expansive force while doing so.

An aside note, one of the biggest mistakes people make with marine engines, is proper winterizing process, which includes removing the petocks and rodding out the passages at the end of each season.  Most mechanics are lazy now, and instead of pulling the drain plugs and rodding them to drain the blocks, will just drop the drive in a garbage can of anti-freeze, which gradually becomes more and more diluted with block water and crud as they proceed through the 'fleet', the last boat being practially unprotected against freezing, and ALL blocks gradually building up the bottom half with crud, and after 6-7 seasons, blocks start cracking, and engines start overheating, requiring replacement (now out of warranty).

In all my boats, cars, trucks motorcycles, generators, forklifts... I may have flushed and scrubbed out cooling passages that would likely never have caused a problem, but I've flushed some out that were so dam-packed tight with crap, that they were NEVER gonna cool right, and once cleaned out, fitted with new frost plugs, gaskets, water pump rebuild and thermostat, ran like they were brand new.


Edited by DaveKamp - 19 Dec 2022 at 8:15pm
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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55allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 55allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2022 at 10:32pm
I agree with DaveKamp…
I normally would start to drain the radiator and than the block right away to make sure it will drain out…
I’ve seen rocks (when I’m flushing for the first time) plugged in those petcocks that took a hammer and punch to get them out.
1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 7:00am
While the above advice is correct for cleaning out the cludge in the block, for your immediate need of freeze protection, why not just refill the system with a 50:50 pre-mix?  At your temps, even if diluted with several quarts of your old 5 deg stuff, you would have plenty of freeze protection.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote corbinstein Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 9:01am
Old car folks have the issue after 50 years or so of having the remove the freeze plugs and blasting the whole works of crud out of the system. Usually in the summer tho. 

Do what the good Dr. Says and give it the ol Coat Hanger. 
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