Dr. Allis oil pressure max . 75lbs

Fired puller up Saturday at max rpm it  has 75 psi oil pressure 50 wt valvoline racing oil. Fram hp1 filter and cooler holding up well. Glad to have the pressure before the 27 psi at 5000 was scarry . I am a firm believer in 10 psi per 1000 rpms.

Cut that Fram open, then cut a Wix open. You'll never buy another Fram filter again. I agree with the 10 psi per 1k rpms above 2k.

How about Mobil 1 15/50 Synthetic Racing oil, I use in air cooled engines.

does that mean your turnin 7500 rpm?

Any video of that mighty engine running coming??

Yes, what Brian said.Stay away from FRAM filters. They are and can be a problem. Found out the hard way! No more for me! Yes, use multi-vis oil. I would stay away from synthetic oil until the rings are seated good. Just my 2 cents from 37 years of working on all kinds of junk!

Lou, stands to reason higher surface speeds and pressures at the bearing are going to reduce the oil film unless there is more oil pressure to compensate by providing more oil to replace the film.

A known fact (or what I was taught back in auto tech collage) is that over 70 # is unneccessary and its at the point of starting to wash bearings.

  As D17 Dave pointed out about the 'opposite of hole having to much pressure applied is true till you have a bearing with a 360 degree grove cut in the bearing or shaft.

Chris/CT wrote: Any video of that mighty engine running coming??

had a bad diaghram in the accelerator pump or I would have been at crossville last saturday. I hope to be in rutledge this saturday. pull starts at 1 pm

ML is right on about that last post. Chrysler 2.7L V6 will typically run up to 100 psi cold, but does fall off quite a bit hot. We had one here we sold and the oil light would come on at idle. I told them to change the sender first, and if that didn't fix it, plan on putting a pump in it. The manager claimed he knew a master Chrysler tesch that claimed he never heard of replacing pumps in those engine and said put bearings in it. Replaced the bearings and no change. Put a pump in it and hot it idled at 22psi, before it was down to almost 0. Cold it ran to 110 with the new pump, old pump was 100. At 2500 hot it ran 60. If he built in added bearing clearance, I can see why running 50wt, but if not, I'd go back to 10-40 or 15-40. Heavy oil is going to build more heat pumping than the lighter stuff.

Dave, you sure it just isn't INTERNATIONAL? Just replaced one of those branch tube connectors the other day for a high pressure oil leak.

I have a 180 prostocker that runs 5000 rpm,s ; I use straight 30 wt. , change the oil every 2 runs cause of fuel in oil ; its pushing alot of fuel !!!  and at least once a year it,ll tear the teeth off of the oil pump, its cam driven , havent messed up the cam yet but   when that red light comes on ; I know what happened !!! Make sure you have a light and a gauge, I like the light cause it,ll get your attention much faster and you cant keep your eye on the gauge ALL of the time !!!

Interesting conversation guys.  I have a 2000 7.3L powerstroke with 263,000 hard miles on it which are mostly trailer pulling miles.  Recently it developed two bad injectors.  The mechanic replaced them, but now it cranks for about 40 seconds in the morning before starting.  Before he replaced injectors, it started sooner, but still not as good as it used too.  Cold (30 degrees or less) & Winter starts were not good at all.  Sounds like an o-ring is leaking on an injector or we are thinking it's high pressure oil pump could be going bad?  Any ideas...

Sorry, but I don't buy that slam on Fram oil filters Bri. I don't care how many so called tests they've done and cut open oil filters. I've been a Fram dealer for more than 35 years. Never had a problem myself, nor any of my customers. And I have a lot of Drag Race/Performance customers. Ran both the standard and the HP series filters on my street cars, Streetrods, & race cars over the years and never a problem. Never broke a motor either buzzin' em' at 8K. Next time you happen to come across a Drag Racing program on TV, when the camera happens to swing by them 7500 HP Top Fuel engines while they're getting ready to make a pass, note what they have screwed to the engines. A pair of FRAM oil filters, and those boys been using them for years. I'm sure Cory Mac' doesn't have Wix filters on his TF car. Just like the Powerglide trans took the slammin' for years as being a "junk" transmission. That's all they use in lower sportsman Drag Race classes for quite a few years now. The only weak link in that tranny was the Sun gear. Replace the cast Sun gear set with an Iron unit or billet aluminum piece, and Viola! Instant "bulletproof" tranny. So much for the "junk" trans. Same goes for the filters....

All I'm going to say is cut a Fram open. Compare it to a Wix or a Purolator. As soon as you do, You'll see what myself and alot of others know. I've never had an engine failure caused by a Fram filter, I'm just saying the quality isn't there when compared to a good filter. Fram ranks down there with Champion Labs with less media/glued cardboard construction. I give Champ Labs a half step up since they have a plastic sleeve inside the filter center to prevent it from collapsing with cold oil or plugged media. I'm not trying to be mean, but it means little to nothing for an engine that makes a few 1320' passes and gets torn down and rebuilt. High mileage engines that still have the hone marks in the cylinders and little to no discernable wear to the rotating assy don't come about from using lower quality oils and filters.