Disc blades

    Picked up an Allis 10 foot disk today. I haven't figured out what model it is yet but it has the snap coupler hitch (no lift arm attachments), fixed angle on the gangs, screw handle for depth adjustment of the wheels and a screw handle adjustment with a coil spring for the tongue. It has been setting for a while so the blades need replaced. I was looking at blades on Agri supply's web sight and 18" blades come in 3, 3.5 and 4.5mm thickness. I am planning on notched front standard rear. What thickness do you suggest? My field is 40 acres of river bottom that ranges from pure sand to clay and a few , maybe 15, rocks a year. A disc will be used as my primary tillage equipment, not enough ground to spend money on a disc chisel and a plow rolls my vegetation layer under sand and kills my yield in about half the field.
Thanks, James

I have a D17 diesel and a WD45 gas, those are my biggest Allis tractors. I'm starting to get a decent orange collection so I'm just going to run with it. On the disk thickness I had a person tell me to put the thickest I could buy on it, but I dont know how thick I can go before the frame isn't heavy enough to push it in the ground. I have never had a good disk so I thought I would put this one back to new condition. I forgot to mention it has 8 blades per corner on 7 inch spacing, so 32 total.

Take one disc off yours, and take a mic, and measure it, near the hole, in the middle.  Taking one off will also ensure that you order the correct hole size and shape...

Probably not a big deal on that small of a disc, but I've seen a 28' where someone put on thicker blades and the bearings wouldn't line up anymore. Had to turn down the centers in a lathe.
I would measure one but it's probably a 3 or 3.5mm. I changed mine a few years ago on my 210 disc which is what yours would be. I put 18" blades on the front. They take a 1" circle center whole. The circle center are hard to find and you'd probably be ok with a square center hole as long as you keep the gang tight.

Another factor is how many acres do you intend to do over the life of that disc? Don't buy 100,000 mile tires when you only intend to drive the car another 50,000 miles.

Unless you know the composition of the steel, you won't know which blade is better.

Look at www.shoupparts.com for a wide selection.

Gerald J.

While you're at it you might want to look at the bearings and seals.

Doug the bearings feel good but I bet the seals are bad. I plan on replacing everything but the spacers. The axles appear to have an 8" or so flange welded to the shaft opposite the nut end. It may be easier to drill the flange and make the axles out of bar stock and weld the flange back on.

J W Freck since your close I'll ask, I'm always looking for Allis equipment and parts including all crop 72 parts. I'm also looking for some of the older small grain bins and I need a heavy duty coulter hub for an IH 412 plow. If someone close by has anything PM me.

Don't know if those brgs are still available but be sitting down when you hear the price.Get a gease needle and grease em up.You'd be suprized how long they run.

Agrisupply bearing part# is 88107. It was mistyped in the rebuild post. You can see the correct part# in the picture.
http://www.agrisupply.com/bearing-fits-john-deere-disc-support-wheels/p/33609/

Edited by Allis dave - 16 Oct 2015 at 6:52am

speakin of blades....I put new blades on my "eleven blade" 200 yrs ago.Only thing I found at farm stores had more cup in them and 2 size square holes.I used short sections of black plastic water line in the blade to "fit" it to the axle.The disc doesn't have enough angle on the wings to use the cup of the blade right.Works ok in soft ground but won't cut good in tough material like corn stalks or grass.
Moral of the story is be sure blades have same "cup" as originals or you're throwin money away.The AC blades are different than the rest.