Did I ruin my B?!?

 Hello Allis fans.

  I just got me an allis model B. I love her to death. When I got it home everything worked just great. It ran nice and quiet and everything great. It did smoke a little when I would first start it up but that would go away once she warmed up a little. I talked to a guy I know about that and he said it needed new rings but would maybe settle back in place if I took it for a long ride. So this AM I decided to do that. Well about 5 miles and I decided to pull over by big green lake and take a little break. I put it in N and sat back to enjoy the view. Well I sat there and idled about 5 Min. at low throttle, then thought I'd be on my way. Pushed in the clutch, shifted into 1st, and let her out slow. Then a big puff of smoke came out from the bell housing and she quit!!! Now I can't even turn the crank! It rolls just fine in N but won't budge in gear. I even tried to give it a pull in 1st with my six wheeler and the wheels are locked up. Anybody know what to do? Also found a bunch of dried up grease crap around the bell where she smoked. DID I RUIN MY BABY?

Will it roll free with the clutch pushed down? If it does something locked up in the transmission. If it doesn't it most likely had the clutch fly apart.

Edited by Dick L - 13 Dec 2011 at 1:58pm

Welcome to the forum xrishansen,

Okay, sounds like something I can handle maybe. I was terrified I froze up the engine somehow! Is there any way to get around in there without splitting the tractor apart or am I gonna just have to do that? So........you guys think it's just a trans issue? I didn't seize it up you think? :)

You guys are fast. Thank you, I feel very lucky that people are out there with good advice or else I'd feel pretty stuck and alone about this.

To answer your questions.......I can't start it. It's just a crank, and the crank won't budge. Everything seemed fine till it died. Running great. I didn't try to turn the crank with the clutch in though, hard to do alone. This thing about being in two gears at once, can you guys tell me a little bit more about that?

Basically you pull the stick out of the top, and realign the gear forks, put the stick back in and you are done.  One of hte other guys will know more about the B, but I think it is just a snapring holding the gearshift lever in.

Did a little more looking on the Agco parts book, and it is just a snap ring, that hold the shift lever in, and worst case, if something is broke in the shift linkage, the side cover to the right and below hold the shift rails, and forks, so it would be a fairly simple fix, if we are on the right path.

Okay. Just got home from down by the lake.

I tried to pull the stick like one of you guys suggested. Took off the boot and tried poking around that ring, but I couldn't figure that out and it kinda looked like it didn't come out that way, but I know very little about this stuff anyway. So I thought well I'll just open the box from the side and have a looksee in there. So I opened that and holy more than I expected cuz the forks and stuff are attached to the cover! Well it came down and out and the stick was free. Okay. So then, I think I put that back right, but I'm not 100% on that cuz now it will shift into 1,2,and R, but the stick isn't going into 3rd. Also when the stick is loose and it should be in N it doesn't roll anymore. Anybody?

Its probalby not the transmission because you can shift in and out of gear, and back to neutral. When in neutral it rolls ( or did), but will not crank. That means the clutch or motor is stuck. Push on the clutch pedal, what does it feel like (disengaging?) I would have someone hold down on tthe clutch pedal, and then see if you can move the crank at all. Either way, you have to split the tractor to get to it. --- Block under the drawbar and the transmission so the back end is steady. Take off the hood, gas tank, wires, etc and then the flywheel housing bolts so the clutch, motor , radiator and front wheels will roll out in one piece. You can use an engine hoist on the front end and reach over and grab the valve cover area, or you can park in the barn and use a 3/4 ton chainfall and do the same thing. Roll the motor and wheels forward 2 feet, then you can see the clutch. The drivshaft will fall off the spline at this point... that might also be the problem.

Back end blocked front and rear-- torque tube and drive shaft are off, normally they stay with trans when motor is pulled. Your blocking can be  near front of torque tube.

Oh boy. Okay. Any advice on how to make it roll again so I can get it up on a trailer? What happens if I take the cover plate of the trans. again? Is it in neutral if those forks are out of the gears?

My guess is 65 years of mouse nest  in bell housing

D-17_Dave wrote: Pulling the tractor with nothing holding the gears could allow the tranny to jump into gear and strip something out in the tranny making you more problems.

Don't worry B's are a dime a dozen if you can't fix it yourself.
You can save it for a parts tractor if you get another one.

You guys are great!
  I bought this thing so I could learn about tractors and to have a hobby. Looks like I'll be getting that for sure. Now I just have a few more questions and answers for ya"ll.

  If I put line up the forks on that plate like the picture from Dick L and put it back in will that mean I'll have it in neutral again, or will I need to move something around inside there to do that?

  I remember now that the guy who sold it to me mentioned he had rebuilt the clutch and that's where she puffed and there was crud around it so I think that's it. When I do get it home can I split it right there with a couple of floor jacks? Looks to me like that would be pretty easy, there doesn't seem like to much to disconnect to do that. Or is it more complicated than just disconnecting a few things and pulling it apart?

 As far as the oil pressure That DREAM mentioned I don't really know because I don't think the gauge was working when I got it. It would burn a little bit but not a lot maybe half a quart in a week maybe running 15 20 hours or so. The needle never went into the low box, just stayed right on that line and didn't ever move. It also never ran hot never ever. That gauge works just fine.

 Thanks guys for all your good advice, I'll make sure and post a few pictures when I finally do get it back home. I'm gonna lie awake all night cuz I know it's out there sitting by the lake in the rain.