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ACinSC 
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 Topic: Dead battery
Posted: 13 Jul 2023 at 10:41am |
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My old C 10 wouldn't start , no click or lights . Battery is 4 years old . Pulled the 6 year old battery out of my D 15 and truck started right up . Both are EVERSTART MAXX 24F . Old truck does sit outside . Guess the heat killed it ? Thanks
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Codger
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Posted: 13 Jul 2023 at 10:55am |
Battery quality is spotty these days. Batteries produced by "Johnson Controls" such as those you have are not the best, nor the worst but overall batteries produced by "East Penn" seem to be of yet better construction yielding a better service life.
However, even Interstate branded batteries have decayed in quality and many produce for them on contractual basis.
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 13 Jul 2023 at 11:00am |
When was the last time it was able to start the truck? Has it been exposed to below-freezing temperatures since then? If so, highly likely frozen, in which case, do NOT use it- take it in as a core. Frozen batteries have plates distorted, usually shorted, and fractured busbars. They become bombs when you attempt to charge and use them.
Pop the caps, and observe the electrolyte level- are they all same? If not, you have a shorted plate in one cell. Draw an electrolyte sample with a hydrometer. If the readings are not all the same, you have a broken busbar in the top of the battery. If they're are all same, put a charger on it, does it draw current?
If it doesn't draw current, there's a break in the busbars between cells and post.
If it draws current, does that current drop off after a few hours?
If so, charge it up, the disconnect power to the charger, then unclip the leads, walk away for a few hours, come back with the hydrometer and check specific gravity on all cells.
IF you have consistent specific gravity between all cells, put it back in, and give it a try.
Frequently, a perfectly good battery will discharge as a result of dirt on the top of the battery. It doesn't carry much current, but it'll draw a battery down to flat over a long wait time. There's probably nothing in your old C10 that uses battery power when off... unless you've fitted it with a stereo, a phone charger, or electronic fuel injection...
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 13 Jul 2023 at 1:24pm |
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Probably 🤔 started my old truck a couple weeks ago. Started fine then. No accessories. Figure I just need a new battery. Guess I could check the water level and see if it will charge. I'll probably buy a new battery at Napa
Wonder who makes them? Thanks guys
Edited by ACinSC - 13 Jul 2023 at 1:27pm
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Codger
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Posted: 13 Jul 2023 at 3:54pm |
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Napa branded batteries are manufactured by East Penn manufacturing.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 13 Jul 2023 at 4:18pm |
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Thanks Rob!!
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Darwin W. Kurtz
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Posted: 13 Jul 2023 at 6:36pm |
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I had a battery that was in a vehicle that I bought at a school surplus auction.
Battery was branded Ozark Automotive Supply Co , never could find out much about them........had to replace that battery a couple months back......tag showed it was 12 years old
bet I don't get 4-5 out of the Interstate that I bought.
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DMiller
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Posted: 13 Jul 2023 at 6:50pm |
Are only in fact five major battery manufacturers, there are several dozen smaller companies but the majority of batteries come from one of Five Suppliers just rebadged.
The issue is the Lead in them, 85+% is now Recycle Lead from the cells, as with any electrolytic material there is a finite lifespan, much is working well past those limits. I just replaced the 2017 Exploder battery, Second Time. Been four in my 2012 Harley.
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Codger
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Posted: 13 Jul 2023 at 10:10pm |
Nothing wrong with recycled lead that is properly smelted back to it's original form with the impurities removed through the process. Done quite a bit of it myself in younger years but made no attempt to capture, or contain impurities floated off other than a garbage can, and an exhaust fan.
Not really difficult to remove the harmful impurities through fractionation, but the cost to set up and meet the established standards to operate make it a difficult process to comply with, and be profitable. So much so there are not many options remaining.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 13 Jul 2023 at 10:19pm |
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well, the battery could be old and DIED... but the first thing i would do is CHARGE it up and then see if the old alternator is working..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Codger
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Posted: 13 Jul 2023 at 10:43pm |
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I always use East Penn manufactured batteries if possible. Not really any branded name loyal; just look for that manufacturer. I have two new 4D batteries in my 11B tractor and one of the former tractor batteries in my backhoe tractor. One of the ones in the dozer went bad and I purchased a matched pair and they are kept on a maintainer/tender. The prior owner replaced the batteries four years apart and I like to keep all equal so replace all in circuit.
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KJCHRIS
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Posted: 13 Jul 2023 at 11:27pm |
It's likely to have a slight draw on the battery. Small enough that it can set for a week maybe more and start but if it sets a longtime battery gets drained. Alternator/reg issues, radio, faulty ignition switch, almost any electrical component can start to fail and cause a slight draw. They can drive a person nuts trying to find. I put a small test light between Pos post and batt cable if light glows a little then start unhooking things 1 at a time until light goes out. IF light don't glow I'll use the voltmeter. I say glow as not be fully lit, that's a slight draw.
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AC 200, CAH, AC185D bareback, AC 180D bareback, D17 III, WF. D17 Blackbar grill, NF. D15 SFW. Case 1175 CAH, Bobcat 543B,
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ACinSC
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Posted: 17 Jul 2023 at 4:20pm |
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Uh oh ! Now the "good" battery is dead as a hammer . Must have a draw on the battery , as suggested . Plan B . Thanks !!
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 17 Jul 2023 at 7:36pm |
you mean... it was alive, and running the truck fine, and now it's dead... or putting a new one in, and it's no different from the old?
If it seems charged by any OTHER test (like a meter directly to the posts), then likely there's a bad cable... which happens... moisture gets in, drawn deep up the wire by capillary action, and turns the copper into fuzzy green powder... which doesn't conduct very well at all...
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 17 Jul 2023 at 7:52pm |
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Second battery was fine. I even drove 15 miles or so. Started it several times and after sitting a couple days it's now dead. Need to figure out what's going on. Thanks
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 17 Jul 2023 at 9:18pm |
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normally a bad alternator ..... Charge up the battery, disconnect the alternator and let it set a couple days......... or if you have a small amp meter, put in the positive cable to battery post ( in series)... and see what the amp draw is.. then pull the alternator wire off and see if it stops..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Codger
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Posted: 17 Jul 2023 at 9:28pm |
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Which alternator is installed in the truck? Could be a 10DN series if externally regulated, or a 10SI series which is internally regulated. If the externally regulated style, remove the cover on the regulator and ensure the contacts are not welded together on the current cutout section. If the internal regulator style chances are either a shorted diode trio, or defective electronic regulator.
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Hubert (Ga)engine7
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Posted: 18 Jul 2023 at 7:36am |
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Had the local tire shop install a new alternator on granddaughters Escape after the original finally gave up. Three weeks later battery was completely drained. Alternator had developed a dead short. Can't get new parts that will last these days. Tire shop replaced it at no charge and all is good for now.
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 18 Jul 2023 at 7:47am |
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Just checked and it has a voltage regulator next to the radiator. Have the charger on the battery now. Thanks guys
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 18 Jul 2023 at 8:56am |
that would be the OLD STYLE Alternator... So your truck is early 1970s ??
Charge up and then disconnect ... or open as mentioned and look inside.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 18 Jul 2023 at 11:11am |
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Yes , it's a 1969 C 10 . Just bought a $35 multimeter , trying to figure out how it works . I'm reading the directions . Thanks !
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 18 Jul 2023 at 1:28pm |
with an External Regulator, you might be able to just replace the box and be back in business. Some regulators can be replaced by new ELECTRIC (solid state) units.... You could have a bad alternator also.. How old and how many miles ? Original ? might be time to replace it......... another option is to install a NEW 10SI or Denso with INTERNAL regulator and eliminate the old Mechanical Reg Box... Might have to move a couple wires around...
You meter should have an AMPS setting, but probably really low ( a coupe amps)... You can take off the positive cable from the battery and put the meter IN LINE... but dont crank, turn on the light, or anything that pulls AMPS... Just read the value on the meter to see what it is pulling... Probably should be like .02 amps or 20 milliamps, etc.. Not a large value.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 18 Jul 2023 at 2:20pm |
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Thanks Steve , feel like temp's 100 degrees here . I'm trying to charge the battery enough to pull my old truck in the shop . Much nicer in here . Pretty sure the alt and VR have been changed , but prolly been a while . Have to check my maint log . Thanks again
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ACinSC
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Posted: 18 Jul 2023 at 4:20pm |
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March 22 2008 , re-built alt and new VR from Steve B . Wonder if it's still under warranty ? If I can get this truck in my shop , I'll see what's going on , hopefully . Thanks !
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 18 Jul 2023 at 6:56pm |
Just had that on my GMC - Alternator went bad as diode allowed discharge in about 3 days of sitting . Alternator worked good since last replacement in 2004 so almost 20 years of use . 2 batteries in truck as used for snow plowing , replaced one battery with new one and weel later both were dead again so figured out - removed batter wire from alternator and unplugged the other wires , took volt meter and tested alternator bet terminal to case and got ohm reading - says bad - new alternator $118 for 140 Amp unit . Seems no one sells the diode trio for the unit
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Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 19 Jul 2023 at 3:20pm |
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I'm still trying to get a battery charged up . Gave up on the 7 year old one. Have the 4 year old battery on the charger now. Beginning to wonder if this charger is any good? Thanks
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Codger
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Posted: 19 Jul 2023 at 3:39pm |
Use a charger that has an ammeter for a rough indication of charge rate. An aged and completely flat battery may, or may not recover, but this problem is more pronounced with age.
If a battery is extremely low in charge, and upon initial recharge process the current will be very low. This is normal and will start increasing after a bit of time. This could be up to 2 hours before noticeable charge rate change.
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Lars(wi)
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Posted: 19 Jul 2023 at 4:22pm |
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On a completely dead, or near dead battery, it best to bring it back to life slowly, like max 2 amps overnight, then up the charger a notch, then several hours later again, give it another kick upwards. If the battery gets hot while on a low to medium charge, more than likely it’s toast.
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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 19 Jul 2023 at 7:54pm |
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Thanks guys! I left it on 2 amp low charge. I'll check it in the morning.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 21 Jul 2023 at 3:31pm |
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Gave up and bought a new Everstart Maxx battery at Wmart . They were $50 cheaper than everywhere else . After unhooking everything one at time Test light stayed on . Guy on another discussion page asked about the radio , which hasn't worked in many years . Found radio was turned on , and that was the culprit . Kinda crazy , but I'm glad it's fixed . Just wanted to let y'all know . Thanks !!
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