D17 Series IV Hydraulics and Loader

I have recently learned that there is a loader that is compatible with my '67 D17 Series IV. My question was how the hydraulics were controlled as my tractor only has two levers on the control bank (1 for hydraulics and 1 for 3pt). Some people have posted that their 17's came with 3 levers (2 hyd. and 1 3pt). Does anyone know if the "factory" second hydraulic lever and associated hoses, etc. are available for purchase or will I need to modify the hydraulic system by tapping into the existing single control and adding the joystick control that could operate both the loader arms and bucket? I would also appreciate any pictures of both setups (factory with the 2 hyd. controls and adding in the joystick). 

We have a d17 IV and tapped into the hydraulics and have a separate remote for the bucket (up/ down pressure & bucket tilt). Tractor remotes work work as-is.

Buy a hydraulic multiplier. Just plugs into your remote and wire it up.

MACK, do you also have photos? I will also try to contact you seperate from the forms to discuss prices if you are indeed willing to sell.

But, he doesn't have three levers in the console...only two levers. He needs an additional remote valve section.

Guess I didn't think it should be that difficult to add another remote valve and have the original factory style double outlets setup using parts from a salvage tractor. On many other brands you have the capability to add valve banks as needed but maybe not on AC. Our Series IV is one of the last one's and like stated above it came with double remotes installed from the factory new in 1967.

Roger, I agree! After thinking about it, I would prefer to have a "factory" looking second hydraulic control as compared to the joystick aftermarket option. 

I added a remote valve to the stack on my D17sIV. It came from a 180.
If you go this route, you'll need the longer tie-bolts that hold the stack together as the valves are 1 1/2" thick.  These should be factory; DO NOT use Redi-Rod or All-Thread.  You'll also need the outlet tubes/fittings that connect to the bottom side of the new valve.
These are routed to the back plate for the couplings.  The existing tubes on mine had bad leather rings and I had to make some backing rings to take up the space.
When disassembling, have a clean area and pay close attention to the small valves & springs in between the valve bodies (items 4 & 5) below....you don't want to have a Roger Welsh moment.  Note; "View from bottom of assembly"

Yes, there is one change of lines. The short unpainted input line behind the seat is 1 1/2" shorter. That could easily be replaced with a hose. The two "new" lines to the left outlets could also be hoses instead of steel lines.  My feeling on this matter is not everybody is talented enough to disassemble the original valve stack and add on an extra valve. When doing so, that is the best time to just reseal the whole stack and have it leak free for the next 30 or 40 years. I'd suggest just purchasing the open center "power beyond" type dual spool valve and mount it above the hand clutch area. This would be a dedicated loader only valve and leave the tractor valves just as they are. Mounting it to the right side leaves your left hand free to shift gears. This is what I'd advise to someone who might not be comfortable with the disassembly of the original tractor valve stack.

Hi Stan, I was wondering if you could send me some pictures of where and how you tapped into the system for your loader? I am wanting to do the same and need some ideas. Thanks

After having gone through the pains of doing it like I did,

Edited by Gatz in NE - 30 Oct 2018 at 3:17pm