D17 rotor shaft not?

Bought one rebuilt from member here( all tight)I need to check weights in governor for anything in particular?(Its a bit intimidating for me since I've read posts on here talking about how touchy all settings on governor can be)- if I don't have to take that apart to check anything that'd be great...-
The horizontal shaft rotates when engine cranks over,but I need to somehow look closely at the mating gear to ensure it's good before I bolt back on.( I'm hoping allis made the distributor gear softer steel than horizontal gear that's on shaft)
Once bolted back together can someone do a step by step description for getting timing back?( please use simple terms)

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 07 Jul 2022 at 8:46am

Ok, so standing on spark plugs side of engine which is number 1 cylinder?

Okay I believe that I found the answer in a different post showing that number one cylinder is closest to the radiator and firing order is 1243 correct?

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 07 Jul 2022 at 9:26am

Ok, at this point I may pull governor shaft out completely to check bearings and weights since I need to find out why no oil is getting in there anyway...

Ok, thanks!
At this point I know timing is messed up since I've cranked over without distributor to check that horizontal mating gear was rotating, but can removing entire guts out of distributor housing change timing(I guess what I should ask is when disassembling /reassembling it is there need for marking anything or knowing a certain position when reassembling?

Maybe try All States Ag parts,they salvage a lot of tractors and have several locations, another one is Austin's salvage in Butler Missouri

Got a new governor housing/ horizontal shaft/gear/ weights and distributor.the filter seamed like it may be falling apart some which may have led to a decrease in the amount of oil being sent to the governor area through the small line...
I need to add this greasing of distributor gears to my yearly things to do on all my tractors.
Now to get it all back together

Okay when I pulled the filter off there was junk stuff down in the long tube in center of filter, but the lines and governor weights had oil on them, maybe it was not enough oil pressure to get the oil past the governor weights because it was bone dry behind separation plate(there is a 1 inch by 2 in cut out in between where the weights are and where the distributor gear meshes with horizontal gear but like a say( bone dry other than at weights area of governor housing...)???
Is it possible that it's low oil pressure as of a plugged filter and was only enough to keep the governor weights area lubricated and not get past the separation plate? Thanks Matt

When people say that they point the rotor at number one cylinder ( to get a engine back in time)which part of the rotor is pointed there? (is it in a literal term as the metal contact point is pointed at the wire that leads to the number one cylinder?) thanks Matt

Edited by steve(ill) - 18 Jul 2022 at 2:16pm

Try pulling on fan blade while pushing in on fan belt. Do this on my 45,220 & 8070.

Dr and some of the more experienced guys might be able to "set it by ear"..... i would suggest you set the timing statically at TDC...remember, the point just STARTS to move open at TDC.... If you have a timing light, you can then check it running at 30 degrees to the FIRE mark...  AFter you get the timing set at TDC, you can back up the crank and then move to the 30 degree FIRE MARK... Then with the distributor cap off, rotate the rotor shaft and see that the point OPENS . ( by turning the shaft so the weights move OUTward)

Edited by steve(ill) - 20 Jul 2022 at 5:50pm

So how I did it was I pulled the number one spark plug out put my thumb over it and cranked it over until it popped my thumb off, looked in the hole and no matter which way I moved it by hand I could not find any TDC stamp anywhere? Flashlight in hole and only rotating a slight bit back and forth to find TDC with no luck. So I put thumb back over hole crank it over until it popped my thumb off put the distributor in with number 1 pointing rotor cap at it and it started but ran rough so I loosened rotor bolts and rotated it only a small amount until it smoothed out. I know it's not right but I cannot find any marks on the flywheel?
It idle's down smoothly, but has poor throttle response... I put number one spark plug wire on number one as rotor was pointed at it, number two on the next distributor port clockwise, number four next distributor Port clockwise, number three next distributor port clockwise and the center obviously to the coil. (1,2,4,3) clockwise from number one...

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 20 Jul 2022 at 7:03pm

I seen several things that look like possibly numbers or letters but I'll have to try to look again or use the wire trick. I'm not sure how obvious this TDC Mark is or what part of the flywheel to look at for it?

HUNT... you should see a slash mark front to rear and the letters TDC above it.... Move 30 degrees BEFORE  TDC and you should see another slash mark ( like a cold chisle line) and the word FIRE above it.... Unless you have rust, it should be easily visible.

Edited by steve(ill) - 20 Jul 2022 at 8:50pm

HUNT.......... i had forgot until Dr said something..... When your coming up on #1 cylinder... LOOK AT THE PULLEY on the front of the crank shaft... The SETSCREW should point straight DOWN.. you may have to rotate another 90 degrees to get it DOWN.. then verify by looking  for your TDC mark on the crank

Edited by steve(ill) - 20 Jul 2022 at 9:24pm

Okay, so by loosening the two distributor bolts and rotating it clockwise while it running(I know that I read this somewhere, but maybe it's bad information to do this? It obviously is b/c you can smooth out a rough idle but throttle response is no good still) is not really helping it get more in time it just smooth out the idle?

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 21 Jul 2022 at 4:50am