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D17 rear blade work(sc attached)

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Hunt4Allis View Drop Down
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    Posted: 09 Mar 2020 at 10:54am
Can these units actually grade soft dirt?(being that there not hydraulic power down)
Im tempted to try and use mine in our pasture to level some dirt/ hay and remove topsoil that the cows have all trampled up.
I'll only know if I try but wondered what others experience is with these on that size tractor.
Thanks Matt
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D17Milo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote D17Milo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2020 at 11:24am
Things that will help, a good cutting edge, work your ground when it has some moisture in it, and maybe some weight on your blade.
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Hunt4Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2020 at 11:46am
It's plenty wet and I was thinking about adding some weight to blade
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimNearFortWorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2020 at 12:31pm
If the ground is wet or has any moisture in it, you will not need any weight if you have a half way decent cutting edge and reasonable tire tread.
If you really want it level, check the rear tire pressure and pull the tractor onto concrete shop floor or driveway, lower blade within1 - 2" of floor and adjust for level and you can finish off your grading of dirt like glass.

I always start with rotating the blade one hole forward for back to front angle, then adjust that side down to break the crust of what you want to grade. Scoring the surface may need repeating when you go back to level but they are a very handy light blade.
Keep a hand on the lift lower controls and go slow as it takes some practice, especially final passes to clean up, 1st gear at idle gives you enough time to adjust and you will be pulling enough dirt that it'll come over the blade as the 17 is heavy, I can easily do that with D15's in soft dirt.
With blade up on edge, you would not believe the size of Cedars I can grub out after it rains, rootball and all stringers come right up out.
I use the snot of my SC blades and prefer one on a S1 or S11 15 over the A-C 3-pt. blade on the 17IV.
They can do plenty of work, just be careful when used to push backwards or you'll mangle the adjusters and have to straighten them.
Good idea to also check your SC Bell/Spring, making sure it stays latched.
I use mine clearing land and have pulled plenty of big limbs to burn piles, always check mine before starting each day.
Have fun with it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frnkeore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2020 at 3:09pm
I put 250 lb on my 6 ft, 3 point blade and it helps. Be sure to add the weight evenly on both sides or it will be hard to adjust. I started with 100 lb on one side, that's why I say that.

It starts to cut fairly easy in wet grass, that way. Hard pan with dry grass on it is VERY hard to get started. It will just slide over the top. I had to tip the blade to the extreme angle, that it would go to and score the as deep as it would go, over the area, before it would bite in, level. I now disk before and that cured it.
Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+, '59 D14
'55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861
Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70 and 5 more.
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john(MI) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2020 at 3:21pm
If it's an Oxnard blade you can use the adjustments on the rear of the blade to move the cutting edge forward.  That  will make it dig better.  You will probably need to play with the adjustment to find the best grade.  After you get it worked up, adjust the blade rearword so it doesn't cut and that will smooth the grade.

If that doesn't work you could try tilting the blade with the adjustment on the top.  Tilt the blade and also angle the blade and it should cut.
D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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Brian G. NY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian G.  NY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2020 at 9:35pm
Originally posted by frnkeore frnkeore wrote:

I put 250 lb on my 6 ft, 3 point blade and it helps. Be sure to add the weight evenly on both sides or it will be hard to adjust. I started with 100 lb on one side, that's why I say that.

It may not be for the purists, but I do the same....I have 4 suitcase weights; sometimes I hang 2 and sometimes 4 on the blade.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote truckerfarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2020 at 10:54pm
If possible post a picture of your blade. That way we can give you the correct information for adjusting it. Different blades are adjusted differently.
Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer

Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!
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truckerfarmer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote truckerfarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2020 at 11:07pm


This is my snap coupler blade behind my WD45.

Does yours look like this?
Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer

Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!
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Hunt4Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2020 at 7:08am

Here's a picture of blade
I got it included with my d17 last year when I bought it ( owner claimed he used it all the time) I haven't used it at all
I need to flush my fuel system out first b/c I think I stored up a bunch of junk in the tank using d17 to cut field last year with my 80t...
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Brian G. NY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian G.  NY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2020 at 8:48am
Truckerfarmer, I sure wish my snap-coupler blade looked like yours.....those little extensions would make a big difference!
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truckerfarmer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote truckerfarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2020 at 10:06pm
Thanks Brian. I made them myself. 6" on each end, making it a 7'. That way it was easier to get a new cutting edge.
Unfortunately Hunt4Allis, yours doesn't appear to be able to tip the moldboard to adjust the amount of cut.
Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer

Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2020 at 10:18pm
 don't see a way to tilt yours....not AC...doubt it will perform like the Oxnard Allis
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Hunt4Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hunt4Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar 2020 at 7:12am
I see...
Well all I can do is hook up to it and try🙄
It came with the d17 and he used it on it for grading of some sort.
Now to fix my fuel system dirt...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar 2020 at 8:37pm
You could make new straps, the ones that go into the snap latches.  You could lengthen one of them about an inch or two.  Or make one with a bunch of holes so you could play with it up and down.  That's the only way I can see doing it with that blade of yours.
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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