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D17 piston and sleeve replacement? |
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paulinkansas
Bronze Level Joined: 30 Nov 2009 Location: Kansas Points: 45 |
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Posted: 30 Nov 2009 at 11:48am |
This is a series III with a gas 226 engine. It smokes alot, and uses about a quart of oil every 30 minutes. I had the head rebuilt with new valves, guides and seals. It still smokes. Now I want to try replacing at least the piston rings or more likely replacing the pistons/sleeves with an overbore set. My problem is getting the oil pan off. There is part of the power steering system that appears to be blocking access to one of the pan bolts on the front right, and it looks like the steering shaft is going to block removal of the pan on the left.Do I need to remove the front wheel and steering assembly in order to remove the pan? It's a wide front. I've tried hammering out the roll pin that holds a u-joint in place on the steering shafts, but it won't budge.
Can anyone give me some tips, procedure or advice on removing the oil pan? I have the I&T manual for this. It basically says to remove the oil pan to gain access to remove the pistons, but doesn't really explain what all needs to be done in order to remove the oil pan.
Thanks for your help.
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Chris/CT
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niantic, Ct Points: 1939 |
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Remove engine from tractor.
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kev/ont
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Castleton Ont Points: 282 |
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I would have to agree with chris on this, Removing the engine from the tractor will allow you to do alot better job of prepping the block for rebuilding. It sounds to me like you have a broken skirt or something of a similar nature for you to be going through a quart in a half hour.
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TexasAllis
Silver Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Texas Points: 396 |
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Pull the engine. Pretty easy job on a D-17. |
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Skyhighballoon(MO)
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pilot Grove, MO Points: 3115 |
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Paul - it can be done. I've done exactly what you are doing on both a Series III and a Series IV D17 for my dad. Unfortunately, it was about 25 years ago so I don't remember the specifics on the problems you mention. You might need a specialty wrench to get the tight fit bolts or something but yes it can be done without removing the engine or the steering shaft. However, as everyone as said, taking the engine out isn't that bad a job on a D17. Mike
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
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CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22823 |
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If the valves and guides were wore out and the rings and pistons and possibly sleeves wore out, the crankshaft will more than likely need ground and new bearings. I would say pull the engine and do it all.
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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Kipn
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Tewksbury, Ma Points: 800 |
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You have made the top of the motor to strong for the bottom of the motor. To much compression for the rings and to hard on the bearings now. Replace them also and as said, make sure crankis right. They're usually not. Got mine turned and sized for $200.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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The shop manual says the ft pedestal has to come off to get the pan off in the tractor. Like the others have said, better to just pull the engine and go through it. Hot tanking and shot blasting the block gets all of the crud and rust out of it. You'll never be sorry you did it 100%. |
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Creek Jenkins
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Northern Minn Points: 812 |
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I just did an in-frame o/haul on my Series I. I wish I would have pulled the engine, it would have been easier.
cheers,
Creek
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roosky01
Orange Level Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 371 |
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Split tractor, removed and re-installed engine in a D17 twice in one day. Completely.....
Don't ask....LOL! |
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Government always finds a need for whatever money it gets.
Ronald Reagan |
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D-17_Dave
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mocksville NC Points: 990 |
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When you separate the front end from the side plates, the star shaped coupling will slide apart. No real need to remove the steering cross unless the joint is worn out and needs replacing.However, if youdo remove the role pin you'll need to strike it with a solid hit. Do this by placing a hard wooden block under the joint with enough clearance for the role pin. This wedge will keep the shaft and joint from "running away" from the blow. Get a good heavy hammer. That pin has been in there a long time and will need some coaxing to get started. The pin should have at least one side flush with the joint. Use the punch on this side so the blow doesn't flare out the head of the pin. If you don't have a flush side I;d grind one side flush if the first couple of blows doesn't move it. Once it starts it should come out pretty easy.
If your depending on the tractor for regular duty then splurge and remove it and give it the whole treatment. it'll then be good for another 25+ years under normal use. This may mean a combination of most of the above. Turn the crank if needed, maybe replacing the cam, a complete high compresion piston/sleeve kit, oil pump, carb kit, water pump and new hoses, plugs and wires and maybe an electronic ignition. Good time to check the clutch out, and fix any other leaks arount the tractor. Might even be time for a little paint.
WOW, look at that sharp looking and running tractor now!
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