D17 Live Hydraulics project

The steering shaft on mine had a spline on the front end shaft and a female coupling on the steering housing. Nothing to take apart. All 3 steering lines need to be unhooked. At the front casting. What oil comes out is going to come out.

If a person could find a engineering drawing of this piece, it might be useful.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Case-IH-Coupling-Coupler-Pump-Drive-A-D140524-480D-4-/290534928592?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a53b30d0

Well I owned my late Grandfather's 1964 Series III for about 6 years, it was nice original sentimental tractor for me but I sold it to buy my 170, never looked back but that's just me.

Pirlbeck is right. Get the generator out of your way and with a big hammer and a large long punch beat it off. Forget about a puller, it will only cost you when you break your pulley.   MACK

Thanks for the helpful hints, guys-  yep, the splined steering shaft slid right out, no problem, so one less headache there.  I was somewhat foiled by the lower hydraulic line going to the bolster right down by the steering shaft... stuck, and I didn't have a big enough line-wrench, but I noticed that it was clear to move forward if I detached the line at the pump end, and removed one 3/4" headed bolt under the engine mount.  The little screw holding the retainer strap was so crammed, in, I couldn't get a wrench on it, so yanking the big bolt was easy and fast.  Unhooked the suction line at the pump end, and shoved rubber stoppers in both lines, so it didn't spill much oil.  Had a cookie sheet on the floor to catch the dribble, and the frame rail is well lubricated, but all's well.

To remove the sheave, I pulled the taper-headed locking bolt totally out as suggested (I'd dealt with these before on my '48 B).  I only slid the frontend forward about eight inches, and was able to thread a piece of 1/4" plate with three holes in there, used two bolts through the sheave's bolt-holes, and ran a long fine-threaded rod (actually, the handle to my slide-hammer) in there, just spun the handle to push the pulley off the crank.  It wasn't FAST to come off, but it didn't take a scary amount of effort to get it popped loose.


There's about all the farther I had to go to get the old one snuck out, and the new one installed.  There WAS a key in the keyway... and it didn't give me a lick'a trouble.  To get the new one in, I just started it by hand, wiggled it down 'till it really wanted a rappin', then I put a block of wood on it, stuck a steel rod through the crank guides, and tapped on it with a 4lb machinist's hammer.  I was careful to watch the tapered-bolt hole carefully, and stop when I got the crankshaft hole to line up with the bolt.


One thing I found somewhat odd, is that the bolster doesn't like to roll straight out of the frame.  The steering coupler likes to get hung up on the hole, and the steering ram doesn't clear the frame-rail bosses unless you pull it out cock-eyed.  It was somewhat of an exercise of frustration, because I'm limited to 15lbs lifting right now, but doc says I can push, drag, or shove anything I want with my lower body, so I used a couple of ratchet straps, some various metal scraps, etc., to get it slid out, then pushed back in and lined up.

And here's the 'new' 4-bolt sheave in place, with bolster ready to slide back into position...

I got it all back in and hooked up, belt back on, etc.  I could put the radiator and front shell back in tomorrow, but I'm gonna let it wait 'till Monday evening-  gonna pull the thermostat and test it (she doesn't warm up much), flush out the rad, and put it all back together with new hoses.  Got family obligations tomorrow, but if there's a break, I'll pull the hand-start B out and reinstall a broken off drawbar...  and in the meantime, I'll start fabricating the splined-shaft coupler and front bracketry.

Dave,
It is looking good! I wish I had 1/2 of the knowledge you have on this stuff. Keep up with the details....I am soaking it up!
Thanks,
Loyd

Dag, Bri- well, 'ya can't see it in the picture, but the early pulley has TWO threaded bolt holes in it.  I've got the center dimensions measured, so I can rattle 'em off to 'ya later.  I had a pair of bolts that didn't match the threads, but they were slightly smaller and would slip through just fine, and I was able to fish 'em in and thread nuts on the back.  The plate is just a flat metal square... I used a dial caliper to find the center distance, drilled the plate, dropped it in there... and just before tightening 'em down, threaded on a piece from my slide hammer to pull against the plate.

Dennis - the 2-bolt sheave has been transported to my in-law's, house, Marshall will sneak over sometime in the next few days, pick it up from the in-laws, and drop it over where he picked it up... unless you want it somewhere else.

Downtown Des Moines any easier? 

If Des Moines seems easier, leave it with the receptionist at this place, say "for Clint".
http://www.bbsae.com/

Ordered from S/center 2 weeks ago today(Tues)....they said we're really busy,it'll 4-5 days before we can ship it.Got it the next week on Thursday.Oh well.

Here's what I found, but if you're gonna copy my work, don't do it yet- let me 'fall off the horse' first!

9-4068-C              2.61 cu in CESSNA 25505LSA HYD PUMP        354.95
1-1392                7/8" 13T SPLINED COUPLING 163-1413          17.00

I'll probably cut one coupler in half, and fit it to a disk to fix to the engine end, and use the other coupler half on a piece of shaft that's been splined at the engine-end.

The Cessna pump is a very 'short' package, with ports located on the sides.   2.6ci will give me around 6 and a half gallons/minute at idle.  Here's how I figured that out:

1 gallon - 231 cubic inches (remember, the Buick 231 V6 was a 'one gallon wonder')

To make one gallon, the 2.6ci pump needs to rotate 231 / 2.6 = 89 rotations... at 89rpm, that's one gallon. 

Let's say I'm idling at 600rpm... that means I'll be churning through 600/89 = 6.7 gallons.

At 1800, I'll be getting 1800/89 = 20.

Now, as another noted above, 20gpm is quite a bit.  Most guys won't need that much flow... matter of fact, unless you know that you'll be running a hydraulically motor driven load (like a brush, or saw, or auger, or concrete breaker), I'd say size the pump around half that.  I chose this size knowing FULL WELL, that I'd probably run that pump only SOMETIMES, and swap to a smaller pump OTHER times.

I'll build my whole system assuming 20gpm... hoses, valves... all of it... and if I don't need the capacity, I'll have an identical, but smaller pump... with ADAPTER FITTINGS, so that I can swap in say... a 1ci pump...  which will put me at 1 gallon @ 231rpm... or about 3 gallons/minute at 600rpm.  Much more reasonable for most uses... throttle it up to 1200, and you'll run a full hydraulic loader nicely.

In my case, I'll be running a backhoe that works casually around 4-5gpm, and hard around 8... but a concrete breaker that requires 15 BY ITSELF.  Granted, the breaker isn't exactly operating concurrently to swinging the boom, but I do push, lift, hook, and pry while the breaker is running, so NOT having the volume is very frustrating.  I operate skid-steers with similar breakers, and they're all running 20gpm or so on the motor circuit, and I over-run them, so I'm certain that if I only fitted my setup for 6-8gpm, I'd be frustrated by slow progress and low power.

My other option, would be to have a 'split pump', one high, and one low-volume... but it's added complexity, added drag, and they stick out farther from the front.  I want this to be a tidy little setup that doesn't attract roosting chickens, doesn't get banged against things, and LOOKS like it was intended that way... but also... very, very, very easy to work on, and with.

Hee hee... thanks for the tip... but believe it or not, with all the crud I blasted off, that darned socket was somehow devoid of the grime-monster... there was a little I picked out, but most was from me movin' the bolster around.

My preferred mode of operation, is to hose everything down good with a pressure-washer before I start.  I miss lots of places, so I end up with 'temporary tattoos', but biggest concern is to make it so I can find the darned fasteners, and don't lose grip of my wrenches...  keeps me from getting unnecessary dents in my head... keeps the shop cleaner, but no matter how hard I try, there's always something in there somewhere.

Dave,Thanks for the info so far and keep riden that horse,lol.