This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
The Forum Parts and Services Unofficial Allis Store Tractor Shows Serial Numbers History
Forum Home Forum Home > Allis Chalmers > Farm Equipment
  New Posts New Posts
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login


D17 foot clutch side to side play

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
twinson View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level
Avatar

Joined: 17 Aug 2019
Location: IL
Points: 70
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote twinson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: D17 foot clutch side to side play
    Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:21pm
Is there a good fix for a D17 that has a foot clutch pedal that has excessive left to right play?
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
AC720Man View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
Points: 4910
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:28pm
I drilled mine out and put a bushing in it. Solved the problem. Series 1

Edited by AC720Man - 28 Oct 2023 at 5:28pm
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20488
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:43pm
Series 4 has a brass bushing. Replace it and it will improve things.
Back to Top
twinson View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level
Avatar

Joined: 17 Aug 2019
Location: IL
Points: 70
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote twinson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:51pm
What about Series I, II or III?
Back to Top
twinson View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level
Avatar

Joined: 17 Aug 2019
Location: IL
Points: 70
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote twinson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:52pm
What is the correct ID of the bushing?
Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20488
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 5:55pm
Part number from AGCO 70235082 takes two bushings. Prior to chassis s/n 24001 there were no bushings. One would have to drill out the clutch pedal to accept bushings.

Edited by DrAllis - 28 Oct 2023 at 5:58pm
Back to Top
Alex09(WI) View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 15 Mar 2012
Location: CECIL WI
Points: 1699
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alex09(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 6:36pm
If your clutch pedal doesn't have any bushings, your pin is prolly worn as well. However the pin can only be replaced when splittin gthe tractor in front of transmission.
www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287
KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY
Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20488
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2023 at 7:28pm
If you are capable with the right tooling, you can remove the old pedal shaft without a split, but it takes some patience. Many times, new bushings correct the problem enough to just call it good enough, especially if you install a grease zerk to keep future wear at bay. Remove the left platform to get room to work. Get the clutch pedal off and wire the clutch rod up and out of the way. Center punch the shaft dead center and start drilling holes. A drill with a "level bubble" works best for up/down positioning and you can visualize left/right. Start with probably an 1/8" hole and get in about an inch. Work yourself up to I think a 7/16" hole and continue drilling deep until you break thru on the inside. You'll hit the detent spring for the PTO lever, which is in a 3/8" pocket hole. If you are centered and straight, you'll hit the end of the spring and continue in compressing it a little so it can be retrieved with a magnet. After the spring, use the magnet to remove the detent ball and any shavings from drilling. Pretty sure the 7/16" hole you made will then accept a 1/2" NC thread tap. Grease the tap and make some 1/2" NC threads and then connect a big slide hammer to remove the pivot pin. Be sure to measure the pivot pin length exposed to position it exactly at the same depth it was when you reinstall it.  Weld up and machine your old pin to size. Press back in with a big hammer and loctite to the EXACT same depth. Protect the pins end from swelling damage. Before installation, fabricate a slug to go in the 7/16" hole and plug the end of the pivot pin with a 1/2" bolt and loctitie. This must be done to put pressure on your PTO lever detent ball spring. Drive the pin in too far and the PTO lever will push/pull hard, so use Mr. Slidehammer to pull back out one or two licks. Is this easy ?? Nope. But if you don't want to split a tractor, it can be done.

Edited by DrAllis - 28 Oct 2023 at 10:03pm
Back to Top
captaindana View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Fort Plain, NY
Points: 2462
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote captaindana Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 6:02am
Holy Moley Doc you are incredible as usual!
Blue Skies and Tail Winds
                          Dana
Back to Top
jaybmiller View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 22453
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 6:24am
yeesh,and here  I was thinking a bunch of washers as 'shims' might take up the 'lefty-righty' slop.

The docs way is better, but I'd be back in the field before I read the whole proceedure
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20488
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 7:44am
Remembering how A-C did those two bushings, there was a gap in the middle, which hardly ever wore on the shaft. I think I stuck 3 bushings in one tractor years ago and trimmed off the excess bushing sticking out. A grease zerk really helps make thinks last, but engineers were all about minimal daily upkeep.
Back to Top
ACinSC View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 16 Dec 2015
Location: South Carolina
Points: 2761
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ACinSC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 12:33pm
I did like Dr Allis suggested on my D 15 . Three bushings and cut off the excess . Worked for me . Good luck !
Back to Top
AC720Man View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
Points: 4910
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 1:21pm
I made a mistake, I drilled out the pedal on my WD and installed a bushing. On my D17, I replaced the bushings. I realized it when I went to feed today and looked at both tractors.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20488
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 1:26pm
I've run into some pretty nasty D-17 clutch pedals that drag against the platform. I'm kinda anal about seat suspensions and clutch/brake pedal conditions.
Back to Top
Ryan Renko View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edwardsville, I
Points: 2321
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan Renko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2023 at 7:04pm
When I replaced the brass bushings in my Series IV clutch pedal I drilled and tapped threads and put in a grease zerk. I thought it wouldn't hurt. Ryan

Edited by Ryan Renko - 29 Oct 2023 at 7:04pm
Back to Top
Allis dave View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 10 May 2012
Location: Northern IN
Points: 2916
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 7:59am
RWTool on here was rebuilding WD45 pedals. He might we able to do a D17 for you if you're unable.
Back to Top
Alex09(WI) View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 15 Mar 2012
Location: CECIL WI
Points: 1699
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alex09(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 8:23am
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

If you are capable with the right tooling, you can remove the old pedal shaft without a split, but it takes some patience. Many times, new bushings correct the problem enough to just call it good enough, especially if you install a grease zerk to keep future wear at bay. Remove the left platform to get room to work. Get the clutch pedal off and wire the clutch rod up and out of the way. Center punch the shaft dead center and start drilling holes. A drill with a "level bubble" works best for up/down positioning and you can visualize left/right. Start with probably an 1/8" hole and get in about an inch. Work yourself up to I think a 7/16" hole and continue drilling deep until you break thru on the inside. You'll hit the detent spring for the PTO lever, which is in a 3/8" pocket hole. If you are centered and straight, you'll hit the end of the spring and continue in compressing it a little so it can be retrieved with a magnet. After the spring, use the magnet to remove the detent ball and any shavings from drilling. Pretty sure the 7/16" hole you made will then accept a 1/2" NC thread tap. Grease the tap and make some 1/2" NC threads and then connect a big slide hammer to remove the pivot pin. Be sure to measure the pivot pin length exposed to position it exactly at the same depth it was when you reinstall it.  Weld up and machine your old pin to size. Press back in with a big hammer and loctite to the EXACT same depth. Protect the pins end from swelling damage. Before installation, fabricate a slug to go in the 7/16" hole and plug the end of the pivot pin with a 1/2" bolt and loctitie. This must be done to put pressure on your PTO lever detent ball spring. Drive the pin in too far and the PTO lever will push/pull hard, so use Mr. Slidehammer to pull back out one or two licks. Is this easy ?? Nope. But if you don't want to split a tractor, it can be done.


That is thinking outside the box right there! Good alternative to splitting!
www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287
KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY
Back to Top
PaulB View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
Points: 4727
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 9:40am
Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:

yeesh,and here  I was thinking a bunch of washers as 'shims' might take up the 'lefty-righty' slop.

The docs way is better, but I'd be back in the field before I read the whole proceedure

On my D15II I just drilled into the pin enough to tap a 1/4X20 TPI hole and used machine washers to remove the slop and a larger heavy fender washer on the outside to hold everything in place, cured the issue. Been that way for more than 20 years now
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
Back to Top
HudCo View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 29 Jan 2013
Location: Plymouth Utah
Points: 3538
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 11:40am
i have welded ( biult up) quite a few and shaped them back with a grinder and file and added a grease fittings bushings and machine washers what ever it takes .     i fill tha same as dr. on sloppy peddales ,seats and levers
Back to Top
Ted J View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18821
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2023 at 12:20pm
Originally posted by Allis dave Allis dave wrote:

RWTool on here was rebuilding WD45 pedals. He might we able to do a D17 for you if you're unable.
That's Rltool.......Ray Walker
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.059 seconds.


Help Support the
Unofficial Allis Forum