D-17 diesel runs rough after pump install

Hello all

This spring I was bushhogging with my D17 diesel and it quit just like I shut the fuel off. I had fuel at the pump and coming out of the little timing cover, until I shut the fuel off at the sediment bowl. Tractor would hit on ether. No raw fuel out the exhaust when cranking.

Pulled the pump and injectors and took to a local shop. They supposedly are well versed in these pumps. Counter man recognized it as I walked in the door.

Got the pump back, it sat a couple months, got it reinstalled yesterday, injectors installed, and I cleaned outsides and ends of the lines with ether then compressed air. Removed the fuel filters and cleaned housings and installed new.

Used compressed air to get fuel to the timing hole in the pump. Cranked it in 3 second tries and after 4 or 5 I had fuel at a couple cylinders. Tightened those lines, gave it some summertime in a can, and it hit and I got fuel at 2 more cylinders, so I tightened those 2. One more little sniff and it was running.

Idles great, but unloaded it intermittent misses and gray smokes. Put the bushhog on, and under load when the governors open it smooths out.

Acts like this fellows tractor here

https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/d-17-diesel_topic50556.html

I wouldn't expect a fresh rebuild pump to have issues?

Also it will wind up to very high RPM. Tach is out but it sounds a lot higher than 1800 RPM. He mentioned the throttle being tied past wide open having something to do with the governors. I had it mounted and timed and tightened down and 4 lines on before I cut their tie wire.

Aside from calling the shop Tuesday after Labor Day,any suggestions?

What year D17 ? Did you time the engine before you pulled the pump? On my series 1 I turned the engine until the timing marks lined up and then installed the timing pin in the flywheel to make sure I was correct. My second thought is I’m not sure why you used compressed air to force fuel through the system. To me that just introduced air in the lines. A little patience and gravity will move the fuel when you have the bleeder cracked open. Your filling 2 filters and the lines with a small amount of fuel so it takes about 5 minutes to get to the bleeder. Once it’s bubble free there close the bleeder and then open the timing window. Once it’s bubble free there install the timing window cover and install the machine screws. A few cranks and it should fire up without cracking any injector lines. Ed just rebuilt my pump and that’s the process I followed. After about 3 revolutions it fired right up.

AC720man - it's a 1965 model Series 4.

I barred the motor over until timing marks aligned and pulled the pump. When I got it from the shop it was timed the same way. When I Bolted it up i checked and they were still aligned.

I used air at the advice of the pump shop.

Drallis, the pump had 1800 stamped on the nameplate so I assumed that was hi idle. I've got a digital optical tach on the way from Amazon to verify.

Should I advance the timing 2-4 degrees from where it was when I pulled it? I had the injectors rebuilt, so that would retard it slightly if my understanding of mechanical diesel injection is correct.

Definitely not messing with a distributor here LOL. Engine off and batteries disconnected....



Edited by cbuttre835 - 02 Sep 2023 at 4:37pm

Good call by Dr. Allis.

Fetched my punch and hammer to set some marks, and noticed old marks a little more than an eighth inch (probably 5/32) apart.

I set mine then advanced it to line the old ones up (almost, didn't loosen any lines) and it's running well.

Unrelated issue - no. 3 spits fuel but without a mirror on a stick I can't tell exactly where. It's splattering off the head and running down the block.

The 3/4 fitting holding the line on is bottomed out.

Again, this is not a 7.3 HEUI so I'm learning as I go.

What is there to check or replace? Looked just like a swaged end on that steel line. The nut is not replaceable that I can see. It's not flared but a little square end on the line.

Cut line off just behind old ferrule,replace with new ferrule and nut if needed. Tighten nut and you should be back in business.               MACK