D17 carburetor/ engine running issue?

Hi, I have a 19 59 ACD 17 that will start right away but then idles poorly and when I pull the choke lever half to three quarters of the way out it runs perfectly and that goes for At Any throttle level whether I'm driving or not? Here's a couple pictures of my carburetor outside, I've had this apart last year to rebuild it and I also put a inline filter in front of carburetor to eliminate any small junk getting into it so I have a hard time believing that it's got anything in the Jets but it's possible I guess. It says my file is too large to attach pictures so I'll have to work on this and add them when I can figure it out why it won't let me but until then anyone have experience of why this would be happening?

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 18 Mar 2025 at 7:01am

Okay, all this information was fresh in my mind a couple years ago when I rebuilt the carburetor so can you tell me what the carburetor settings are supposed to be set up as Factory? I feel like I remember it saying to turn the screw all the way in till it just touches and then back it off?

I would agree with Dr.. You Main Jet is restricted..

yep... thats the screw... but also possible a chunk or rust is stuck INSIDE on the jet.

Edited by steve(ill) - 18 Mar 2025 at 9:50am

Okay I turned the main jet out three turns and it seems to have fixed that issue but now when I put the throttle all the way down low it stalls and turns off so I'm guessing the idle adjust screw needs to be increased? What should this idle at when correct?

I'm in the house now and not going back out to the Tractor until tomorrow so where you're saying it connects to the throttle Rod is that the same point that the governor connects to?

So turn this screw in tighter correct?( the screw that I have circled in green is on the back side of the carburetor up against the engine block and it's the only one that I can see that has adjustment) what's crazy is I remember setting all these a couple years ago when I rebuilt the carburetor and added the inline fuel filter in front of the carburetor( do these screws get out of adjustment just by running?)
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And this is the idle adjust screw towards the front of the tractor that I have circled in green that needs to be one and a half turns out from tight correct? Thanks much guys for the info! This will be so much nicer cutting hay with her running good this year hopefully... I have a viable tachometer that I had a guy rebuild so what is it supposed to idle at and the top end RPM be?/18254/Screenshot_20250319_075003_Gmail~2_2025-03-19_06-55-38.jpg[/IMG]

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 19 Mar 2025 at 8:15am

All the work you mentioned doing a couple of years ago, how many tanks of gas have you run through it in that time? And more importantly when you put the machine up, do you run it out or drain the carb?

Technically, you cannot make it "too rich" because the internal jetting already predetermines the maximum fuel burn rate, which is needed for plowing/discing, etc.  You may turn the "L" shaped main jet in 1/4 turn at a time and just use the tractor the way you want to use it. At some point, you will get to that fine line of the engine stumbling a bit when you yank the throttle open and then you have now become too lean. Open it back up 1/4 or maybe 1/2 and quit. BUT, if you go to plowing/heavy loads it should be opened up probably 1 full turn to be sure it is rich enough for max power. Most farmers never continually messed with this setting because the fuel saved on lighter loads wasn't that big of a deal when gas was 15 cents a gallon. Lean settings can burn valves when used for constant heavy loads like plowing.

Edited by DrAllis - 23 Mar 2025 at 7:25am

i was tought to open it up a few turns and throttle it up to full rapidly  and snap it back to idle to clear the crap then turn it back in to the point where it would excellerate without stumble , i would open it up when discing,     my grandpa would turn them all back down and get after me for wasting gas for raking mowing and every thing easle   

Stanley.. price of a tractor is determined by how bad someone wants it.. You can buy a "runner" B in poor conditon for $800.  ... might cost you $2000. to rebuild and paint.. Is it WORTH $2800. + your labor when finished ?  Normally not.. You can buy some pretty nice tractors model "B" for $2000. - $2500.  Depending on location and how bad someone wants it.... thats a good starting point.

Edited by steve(ill) - 23 Mar 2025 at 6:14pm

Thanks for the info on the value of an AC B.

I figured it would be,thanks again for your help