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David G. 
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Location: Western KY
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 Topic: D15 Series 2 Hydraulics
Posted: 17 Dec 2018 at 2:58pm |
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I've been working on a D15 series 2 I recently bought that has been sitting in a shed for 12 years or so not running. I rebuilt the carb and tuned it up. Got it running, runs great. I also changed all the fluids. Problem is the hydraulics won't lift the arms. It wasn't low before I drained it. Is there a need to bleed something or prime anything? It is full on the dipstick and yes I am checking the dipstick on right side of the tractor below the fuel tank. I have moved the traction booster lever up and down along with the raise lever with not so much as a jerk from the lift arms. Any and all help is appreciated.
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Alvin M
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Posted: 17 Dec 2018 at 4:22pm |
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foot clutch must be out no bleeding needed hyd pump is in oil
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DiyDave
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Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 17 Dec 2018 at 5:37pm |
Might have a leakin or busted hose, inside, goes to the cyl, also internal, that lifts the rock shaft. If it has this problem, fluid will drop, in the hyd compartment, and rise, in the rear.
Also, there is a speed adjustment screw, on the LS of the tractor, to adjust speed of rise. Also check TB linkage adjustment...  |
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DrAllis
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Posted: 17 Dec 2018 at 6:36pm |
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The speed adjustment is for lowering speed when using the Traction Booster. Lifting speed depends on pump condition and engine speed.
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modirt
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Posted: 18 Dec 2018 at 4:22pm |
I seem to recall some tractors have a "transport valve" or some such thing, left side below the seat. If that is set the wrong way, lift arms may not work.
Hope you find an easy solution. I found out the hard way when it was left parked for 20 years, there were a lot of reasons why. 
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mruhlig77
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Posted: 18 Dec 2018 at 4:28pm |
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Did you fill the resorvoir on the right side by the belt pulley ....and the you might pump the lift arms to find resistance....if none..maybe a broken internal hose or seal....
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DiyDave
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Posted: 18 Dec 2018 at 6:20pm |
 DrAllis wrote:
The speed adjustment is for lowering speed when using the Traction Booster. Lifting speed depends on pump condition and engine speed. |
I stand corrected...
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David G.
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Posted: 19 Dec 2018 at 3:11pm |
As stated before, the hydraulic reservoir on the right hand side below the fuel tank and directly behind the belt pulley, is full of fresh hydaulic oil. Also the clutch is released. It seems the lift lever has absolutely no resistance. I have concluded that the linkage is at fault somehow. I have run the tractor enough trying to raise the lift arms to pump most if not all of the fluid to the transmission compartment if there was a leak in the internal hose. I guess it's time to remove the pump. 
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DrAllis
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Posted: 19 Dec 2018 at 3:57pm |
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Make sure the linkage under the fuel tank isn't disconnected or broken before you pull the pump.
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David G.
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Posted: 19 Dec 2018 at 6:22pm |
DrAllis wrote:
Make sure the linkage under the fuel tank isn't disconnected or broken before you pull the pump. |
Good point doc. I have checked it and actually did disconnect it by removing the cotter pin on the linkage that operates the main rod that goes down into the torque tube. That's where I could tell that it has no resistance. It still has a definite start and stop point as it should. Since it will not completely spin around that makes me think that it's not broken. I got the hydraulic reservoir draining overnight. I'll pull the pump tomorrow if I get a chance.
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modirt
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Posted: 19 Dec 2018 at 11:17pm |
David G. wrote:
As stated before, the hydraulic reservoir on the right hand side below the fuel tank and directly behind the belt pulley, is full of fresh hydaulic oil. Also the clutch is released. It seems the lift lever has absolutely no resistance. I have concluded that the linkage is at fault somehow. I have run the tractor enough trying to raise the lift arms to pump most if not all of the fluid to the transmission compartment if there was a leak in the internal hose. I guess it's time to remove the pump. |
If it is pumping oil from one reservoir to the other, wouldn't the level on both dipsticks change? One up and one down? Did they?
If your D15 has one (mine doesn't), what was the status of the transport valve? As memory serves, I believe it also works to select or divert flow to lift arms and remotes, as needed?
Does it have remote hydraulics and are they working?
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Trinity45
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Posted: 20 Dec 2018 at 6:49am |
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We blew an internal line on ours back in the 70's and the arms would not work until we replaced the line. But I would check all external issues before going internal.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 20 Dec 2018 at 7:17am |
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The optional "Transport valve" will have nothing to do with the fact the pump won't even lift the arms with no load on them. The Transport valves purpose is to allow the lift arms to go up first and then the remote cylinder second all within a pre-set pressure range. Screwing in or out on the knob changes it to normal setting or pull-type implement settings.
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David G.
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Posted: 20 Dec 2018 at 11:56am |
modirt wrote:
David G. wrote:
As stated before, the hydraulic reservoir on the right hand side below the fuel tank and directly behind the belt pulley, is full of fresh hydaulic oil. Also the clutch is released. It seems the lift lever has absolutely no resistance. I have concluded that the linkage is at fault somehow. I have run the tractor enough trying to raise the lift arms to pump most if not all of the fluid to the transmission compartment if there was a leak in the internal hose. I guess it's time to remove the pump. |
If it is pumping oil from one reservoir to the other, wouldn't the level on both dipsticks change? One up and one down? Did they?
If your D15 has one (mine doesn't), what was the status of the transport valve? As memory serves, I believe it also works to select or divert flow to lift arms and remotes, as needed?
Does it have remote hydraulics and are they working?
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Neither level changed at all. There is no transport valve on this particular tractor. I put a pressure gauge I rigged up on a coupler into the remote outlet and worked the hydraulic lever, produced 0 lbs. of pressure. While operating the hydraulic lever there is absolutely no change in the sound or the tone of the tractor running.
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David G.
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Posted: 22 Dec 2018 at 6:18pm |
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I got the bottom cover removed from the tractor today and I see the problem but I don't quite understand why it's doing what it's doing. The problem seems to be with the traction booster linkage. While moving the traction booster lever up top, the linkage moves alot down by the pump however the an arm on the linkage ALWAYS keeps the spool valve pressed in. I don't really see why it does this. Any thoughts?
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DiyDave
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Posted: 22 Dec 2018 at 7:37pm |
Check the TB linkage, to the spring, on the drawbar...
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DrAllis
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Posted: 22 Dec 2018 at 8:08pm |
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I assume this is a snap-coupler tractor?? In order to remove that bottom sump cover, you should have had to loosen the rear jam nut on that piece of T Boost linkage to get the spring pressure released so you could pull the cotter pin and disconnect said linkage from the arm on the bottom of the sump cover. Is this true or not ??
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David G.
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Posted: 22 Dec 2018 at 8:44pm |
DrAllis wrote:
I assume this is a snap-coupler tractor?? In order to remove that bottom sump cover, you should have had to loosen the rear jam nut on that piece of T Boost linkage to get the spring pressure released so you could pull the cotter pin and disconnect said linkage from the arm on the bottom of the sump cover. Is this true or not ?? |
Dr, this is a factory 3pt hitch. The drawbar isn't on the tractor right now. There was an small arm of TB linkage that I removed from the under side before I took the sump cover off, but there was no need to do anything besides remove cotter key and pull the rod out.
Edited by David G. - 22 Dec 2018 at 9:07pm
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DrAllis
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Posted: 22 Dec 2018 at 9:06pm |
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Never been around the 3pt hitch D-15. I assume the hydraulic levers should work the same as a snap-coupler tractor. Properly adjusted levers should work like this: Lift/Lower lever locked down horizontal in the lower window, slowly lift the Traction Booster lever. At a point about 4 or 5 notches from the maximum upward travel of the lever, you should feel the linkage touch the spool inside the hydraulic pump. Moving up the last 4 or 5 notches will be harder because you are compressing a spring inside the hydraulic pump. That is a properly adjusted T Boost lever. On the sump cover there is a vertical arm with a roller on the end of it. That roller fits inside a pocket up inside the torque housing. If it wasn't in the proper location, your pump may not have been able to work. Using a long screwdriver, you should be able to push the hydraulic pump control spool "in" (which is forward) against spring pressure. Release it and the spool should come back out (rearward). The Traction Booster linkage and the Lift/Lower linkage are kind of like a teeter-toter when it comes to pushing the pumps control spool in (and out).
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David G.
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Posted: 22 Dec 2018 at 9:22pm |
DrAllis wrote:
Never been around the 3pt hitch D-15. I assume the hydraulic levers should work the same as a snap-coupler tractor. Properly adjusted levers should work like this: Lift/Lower lever locked down horizontal in the lower window, slowly lift the Traction Booster lever. At a point about 4 or 5 notches from the maximum upward travel of the lever, you should feel the linkage touch the spool inside the hydraulic pump. Moving up the last 4 or 5 notches will be harder because you are compressing a spring inside the hydraulic pump. That is a properly adjusted T Boost lever. On the sump cover there is a vertical arm with a roller on the end of it. That roller fits inside a pocket up inside the torque housing. If it wasn't in the proper location, your pump may not have been able to work. Using a long screwdriver, you should be able to push the hydraulic pump control spool "in" (which is forward) against spring pressure. Release it and the spool should come back out (rearward). The Traction Booster linkage and the Lift/Lower linkage are kind of like a teeter-toter when it comes to pushing the pumps control spool in (and out). |
Doc, you are correct on the part about being able to move the TB linkage on the teeter totter like set-up with a screwdriver. The thing is, regardless of where the TB control lever is on the quadrant it keeps the spool valve completely depressed. I can use a screwdriver and pry against the TB arms at the back of the pump and remove pressure from the spool and the spool pops out as it should. I don't understand why the TB arms always stay "cammed" over on the spool. My AC service manual shows many pics of the pump but none of the correct linkage settings.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 22 Dec 2018 at 9:29pm |
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I'm just concerned that the linkage from the rear of the tractor was maladjusted or the arm with the roller wasn't where it belongs. The pump still may have issues, but...
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DrAllis
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Posted: 22 Dec 2018 at 9:41pm |
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To remove the pump, you must compress that spring on the left side of the pump with a big screwdriver and slip a small nail into an existing hole into the springs guide rod to keep it compressed. Then, you position the levers so the pump can drop straight down.
Edited by DrAllis - 22 Dec 2018 at 9:57pm
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Unit3
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Posted: 22 Dec 2018 at 9:44pm |
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Factory 3 point? You get the "Lucky Dog Award". Those look so cool on a D15 II.
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2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C
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