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jeffreyjack 
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Joined: 13 Jun 2023
Location: Richland Center
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 Topic: D15 II loss of power going up hill
Posted: 13 Jun 2023 at 6:05am |
Thank you for this site. Recently retired to my parents piece of property and am using Dad's A/C tractor more and have taken over the maintenance. So I guess you could say this is my first tractor. My biggest problem at the moment is the tractor acts like it is running out of gas on steep inclines. I live in the driftless area of Wisconsin and hills are unavoidable. It used to chug and run out of gas when the tank was down to about a quarter full. Topping it off would solve the problem. But now I have the same problem when the tank is 3/4 full. I am not even running a steep incline. I am using the tractor now to cut grass with a bush hog. When the engine is under load it starts to chug. I am guessing it has something to do with the fuel filter. I cleaned out the bowl as there was some sediment there. Also found out that the gas shut off is not doing its job. However, I do not think that is the problem. Thinking about how this system works, it may have a clogged filter? I am guessing the engine uses vacuum pressure to siphon gas from the top of the glass bowl.
Just want to know if I am barking up the wrong tree with this idea. Maybe someone on here has a better idea? There has been no maintenance done aside from engine oil changes, by me, in the last 8 plus years.
Thanks in advance for your input. JJ
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
Points: 5204
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Posted: 13 Jun 2023 at 7:57am |
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Sounds like there is dirt in the tank, or rust that has come loose that may be preventing enough fuel to reach the carb. Only way to know would be to drain the tank and use a light to see if you see dirt in the tank. It would be best to remove the tank and clean it. If your fuel shut off is not working properly I would replace it with a new one. They are less than $40. They can be rebuilt with a kit but I have found most times they are worn to point where it’s just easier and less hassle to replace. Our series II will flood the carb if we don’t turn the fuel off after each use. Carb has been rebuilt several times, float adjusted and it will still slowly flood after sitting for a day. Need to send it to Steve one day to have him go through it since I haven’t been able to solve that issue. Maybe the kit I use is not good quality but not sure?
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 13 Jun 2023 at 1:02pm |
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Gravity flow fuel system. Some carbs have a "filter built in the fitting on the inlet. It sounds like poor flow. You have to find it. There has been more than one story about floaters in the tank blocking outlet randomly.
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Trinity45
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Joined: 17 Mar 2014
Location: Kentucky
Points: 1884
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Posted: 13 Jun 2023 at 3:16pm |
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As they said, fuel flow, I know I had a problem with my cub cadet, it would stop running when the outlet was on the down hill side, a cocoon got into the tank and the suction would pull it over the inlet on the down hill side.
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AC720Man
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Posted: 13 Jun 2023 at 5:41pm |
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Our 6060 would die at 1/8 tank fuel. Finally drained the tank to clean it at the end of hay season. Removed the tank to clean it and a foil came out from a fuel additive bottle cap. Solved the problem. Apparently one of us failed to remove it completely from the bottle. Won’t ever forget that.
Edited by AC720Man - 13 Jun 2023 at 5:42pm
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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EPALLIS
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Illinois
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Posted: 13 Jun 2023 at 9:15pm |
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I had the same issue on my D-15 Series II. Boiled the carb out and that fixed everything. Good luck!
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Gary Burnett
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Virginia
Points: 3062
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Posted: 13 Jun 2023 at 9:24pm |
Do the easy simple things first.Pull the plug in the bottom of the carb to check gas flow,then take the line loose at the carb inlet,then take the glass bowl off the sediment assembly.If still no good fuel flow take out the whole cut off assembly sometimes that will
let any rust or dirt out.Then unscrew the sediment assembly out of the tank,of course drain as much gas out of the tank that you can before you do that.Could be a small piece of something obstructing flow or a tank full of rust.
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jeffreyjack
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Joined: 13 Jun 2023
Location: Richland Center
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Posted: 14 Jun 2023 at 6:09am |
Solid suggestions to my issues. Thank you to all for your input. I would bet I will be on here again with more questions. I have other issues with the A/C that are not as pressing as this one. Power Steering? Didn't know I had Power steering until looking at info on line. Not working. Guages are dead. Leak in PTO near/under trailer pull bar. Been there since Dad purchased tractor. The list goes on.
Thanks again for your input. It is appreciated so much.
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jvin248
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Joined: 17 Jan 2022
Location: Detroit
Points: 445
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Posted: 14 Jun 2023 at 7:00am |
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Some carbs have a fine mesh screen attached to the fuel inlet pipe. Some owners have removed and lost that screen.
So it's a good item to look for when checking the other parts. One of my MF35s came with that screen half full of crud that got by the bowl and inline paper filter (or most likely the filter was added and screen never checked, it was the 'parts tractor' of what I bought at the time, I got it running and plowed snow with it).
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KJCHRIS
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Joined: 21 Dec 2015
Location: WC Iowa
Points: 951
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Posted: 14 Jun 2023 at 3:23pm |
Gravity moves the fuel from tank to carb. Bottom of carb should have a small drain plug, remove it, catch first of it in clean can or jar, does it have water or junk in it? Also it should run a steady stream. IF an inline fuel filter has been installed, has it been replaced recently? They have an arrow on them that indicates fuel flow direction, is it pointed to carb ? Some haven't been installed correctly.! Turn load needle (sticks out bottom of carb) counter-clockwise 3/4 turn see if it improves. Somewhere in the system there was at least 1 mesh screen to prevent junk from getting into carb. It can be in the carb inlet fitting, in sediment bowl (above the glass bowl gasket), or the inlet to sediment bowl has a screen attached to it (requires removing sediment bowl ass'y from fuel tank). IF screen hasn't been out and cleaned it can have junk collected restricting fuel.
IF still low power / rough running at open throttle it's time to look at ignition points (are contacts clean/smooth) then to cleaning the carb. Hope this helped.
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AC 200, CAH, AC185D bareback, AC 180D bareback, D17 III, WF. D17 Blackbar grill, NF. D15 SFW. Case 1175 CAH, Bobcat 543B,
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MACK
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Posted: 14 Jun 2023 at 8:59pm |
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I would guess Governor linkage has some ware and needs adjusted. MACK
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Gary (sw Wis.)
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Posted: 15 Jun 2023 at 7:17pm |
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I had that problem years ago with my D14. Drained the gas took out and cleaned the tank valve. Problem solved.
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190XT - D17 - D14 - WD45 w/loader - WD - (2)B110 - 616H - 610 - B-208 - WD with 190 Mounted Corn Picker - All Crop 60
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 15 Jun 2023 at 10:41pm |
A fair blob of water wandering around the bottom of the tank will do this, too...
I vote for a fully-drain the whole fuel system, clean out everything, put it back together and see what happens.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 16 Jun 2023 at 5:59am |
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Disconnect the fuel line hose at the carburetor and place it in a gallon jug. Turn on the petcock fully with gas in the tank. The gallon jug MUST fill in less than 10 minutes for sure. If it passes this test, reconnect and do the same thing with the drain plug from the carburetor removed, using a funnel to catch the gas running out of the carb bottom into the jug. The flow still needs to be a gallon in less than 10 minutes. Lack of flow ?? there's your possible problem.
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modirt
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Joined: 18 Jul 2018
Location: Missouri
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Posted: 23 Jun 2023 at 5:24pm |
Am having a similar problem.........she starts easy, warms up, runs a bit, then under any load, stalls and dies, and will not start again until cooled down. In addition to under load, if you rack the throttle open, dies, and will not start. Seems like a fuel issue.
So to get to bottom of it, ended up replacing the sediment bowl assembly.......and while it was out, flushed out the tank, which was clean to start with. Have also replaced fuel lines.....including inline fuel filter. All new.
So to get to bottom of it, still disconnected fuel line at the carb. Ran a slow stream.....then almost stopped. But then suck on it to pull a bit of vacuum and it will run a stream till the tank emptied. But assemble it again and it goes thru the same process. Seemingly, not possible but is doing it.
With fuel line running a stream, if drain plug pulled from the carb, it drains out, but more of a trickle than a stream.
Time to pull and clean the carb?
Was having no issues with this last time it was running well, and that was last fall, right before it dropped a valve. Got all that sorted out.....carb was off, but may have had some gas sitting in it over the winter. But has been starting and running. Managed to rake a couple acres of hay with it, but kept dying while doing it.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 23 Jun 2023 at 6:35pm |
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Must flow more than a gallon in 15 minutes.
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modirt
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Posted: 23 Jun 2023 at 6:47pm |
And if not? Fuel lines from tank to carb are new and clear and run a stream......usually. Does not run a fast stream from bottom of carb.
Time to pull and clean it?
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Model 70
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Posted: 23 Jun 2023 at 8:31pm |
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Did you ever check your gas cap to make sure it’s venting ?
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modirt
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Posted: 24 Jun 2023 at 6:34am |
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When i was doing my flow testing, gas cap was off. I had it off to look into tank, and left it off.
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modirt
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Posted: 24 Jun 2023 at 6:41am |
When i was doing my flow testing, gas cap was off. I had it off to look into tank, and left it off.
To me, the symptoms sort of resemble vapor lock situation. At least when it dies and won't start. It has also died on me just idling while sitting still and not moving. Then not want to start again until it cools down.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 24 Jun 2023 at 7:10am |
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Fuel line a rubber hose ?? could be coming apart inside. Also should not have a droop in its routing...as straight as possible is best.
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modirt
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Posted: 24 Jun 2023 at 7:31am |
It was rubber, which is why it was replaced. Is now rubber fuel line.......but it does droop down a bit. Can trim some hose (has inline fuel filter) and see if that helps.
Easy to think the inline fuel filter could be slowing things down, but when it is flowing right, it runs a heavy stream and that is going thru the fuel filter. It is new also, so is not clogged.
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IBWD MIke
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Posted: 24 Jun 2023 at 8:02am |
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I had a fuel flow issue with my new-to-me D-15 when It first got home. Long story short, there was a very small brass flat washer on the neck of the sediment bowl blocking flow. I suspect that washer may have came from the fuel gauge float. Need to change that float as it doesn't really float. An accurate gauge would be a great thing. I have the parts, just need to get it apart.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 24 Jun 2023 at 8:40am |
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only happens when its HOT..... you got vapor lock or fuel tank pluggage... If you can ELIMINATE that possibility WHEN HOT, then i vote for a COIL or CAPACITOR break down.. That would be common for HAPPENS WHEN HOT..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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modirt
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Posted: 24 Jun 2023 at 12:53pm |
Last time it died on me, had pulled it out of barn to test to see if changing all the fuel lines, sediment bowl, etc. would matter. Was easing along, then cracked throttle open and she died. Would not start again for an hour till cooled off. But then ran back to barn, no problems.
Before, when raking hay, would make one round, then start stalling out starting up a hill......gave it full choke......stopped dying and sputtered, then half choke....it would even out, then no choke and all was good. Till the next round. But then finished raking and she made it home......stalling twice on the road. Same process got her home.
Should not matter, as it never has before, but fuel is 91 octane ethanol free unleaded.
Also is fresh back from 2nd engine overhaul to replace dropped valve, so engine has been apart, put back together all to specs. Valve lash set right, plugs gapped, points gapped and set, new condenser and new plug wires.
Don't know enough about internal workings of the carb to know if something in float or other could go wrong sitting around all winter, but again, was working fine last fall until valve dropped. Didn't do anything to it but pull it off and put it back on. But carb is only thing left to check.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 24 Jun 2023 at 2:47pm |
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91 octane is a waste of money. 87 octane is plenty good enough.
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mdm1
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Posted: 24 Jun 2023 at 3:03pm |
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Since what has been happening to me I would agree with Steve(ill). I thought mY G was fuel related also but it was the condenser. But mine would start back up but didn't run very long. Do you have an old condenser? Put that back in.
Edited by mdm1 - 24 Jun 2023 at 3:09pm
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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modirt
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Posted: 25 Jun 2023 at 7:18am |
So to test the coil / condenser theory, guess I could have a spare plug handy and if it stalls and won't start, pull a plug wire, put spare plug on then see if I get any fire from it. If I do......not electrical. If not, that is my problem?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 25 Jun 2023 at 7:24am |
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If it's a bad condensor it still may have spark but you can't tell if it is erratic or not. Just replace condensor with the old one that WAS WORKING.
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jeffreyjack
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Posted: 21 hours 21 minutes ago at 7:59am |
Thank you all for your responses. It is as most of you said, rusty deposits in addition to the original gas line is in decay. What a great site. I am sorry that it took so long to thank all of you. Taking the tank off may be a job that needs to be done.
Again, this was a big help. Thank you.
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