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Chilson450 
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 Topic: D14 rebuilt engine oil pressure
Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 8:19am |
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I recently installed a rebuilt engine in my d14. The engine was rebuilt by a local machine shop and stored for years before I installed it. I got it running and it run very well with about 15 psi of oil pressure. I then later realized that oil was not getting to the top end or the governor. I pulled the tee fitting out of the side of the block and oil dribbles out. But as soon as I put the tee and lines on, it won't push oil up to the top end. The lines are clear. Anyone have ideas on lack of oil coming out of that port? I did run it for about a minute or two. I'm hoping my mains and rods are ok. Would they still be getting oil?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 8:22am |
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Center camshaft bearing hole not installed/oriented correctly would be my guess.
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Chilson450
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Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 8:26am |
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Would that starve the mains and rods from oil?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 8:42am |
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Don't remember for sure on that series of engine. I think not.
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Alvin M
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Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 9:07am |
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Center bushing has two holes must installed right like the DR Allis said
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PaulB
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Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 11:58am |
 Chilson450 wrote:
Would that starve the mains and rods from oil? |
It could. The Camshaft is the main oil gallery for all the smaller AC engines. Did you rebuild or replace the oil pump when you had the engine rebuilt, The small D series engines generally will have close to or above 30PSI when cold at start up. The BE/CE will have 15 -20 at cold start.
If your rebuilder didn't run a drill up though the main passages to the cam bearings, who knows how much oil is getting to the crankshaft.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Chilson450
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Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 4:29pm |
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Just a small update. Im not sure if it helps me though. I took the tee out of the side of the block. I looked in the hole and can see the cam shaft turn as I roll the engine over. But it's all the way to the side of the hole. I'm not sure if it's the actual oil hole in the bearing or the edge of the bearing. I get oil running out if I run it but will not climb the tubes to the top of the engine so that tells me no pressure is making it out of that hole. I'm scared to run it because I'm not sure the mains and rods are getting oil.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 5:03pm |
what does your FILTER look like ? The filter is a BYPASS type... you want a MINIMAL amount (15%) of the oil going thru the filter and dumping back to sump... 85% of the oil goes to LUBE the motor.. Remove the filter and look at the 1/4 inch tube up thru the center of the filter. If the tube is GONE, you will loose lube by dumping thru the filter.. If the tube is worn out on the end and the "hole" is bigger than 1/8 inch, you will loose lube dumping thru the filter... If the tube was removed and was pounded back into place and pushed down too far, you could shut off flow......
also , there might be a pressure gauge under the filter... What does it read ? You can crank the motor with the filter off and see what is comeing out... sometimes put a small rubber hose over the 1/4 inch tube and put it in a bucket to keep the mess down.
Edited by steve(ill) - 02 Nov 2024 at 5:07pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Chilson450
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Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 6:12pm |
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I have the correct bypass style cotton filled filter. It has a brand new stand pipe. The old one was a piece of brake line. I doubt I pounded it in too far. Actually worried it's not down far enough but it's stuck for now. Cranking the engine off oil spills out the stand pipe. I put a 30 psi gauge right at the filter base. It climbs right to 15 psi.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 6:26pm |
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15 psi is exactly what you want on a B- C engine.... Dont sound like you have a problem with the pump or oil supply ... you do need some flow to the top of the motor. You can tell by the small diameter of the tube to the top that you dont get a lot of oil,, but you don need some... How about running it without the TEE in the block and seeing if you can FLUSH anything out and get a little more flow... You can remove the valve cover and just dump 4 oz o oil on the rocker arm and followers for now.... is it possible that your SMALL line from the TEE to the top end is plugged or damaged ? ( maybe the nut was tightened and the ferrel squeezed down the tube hole ??) Maybe a new line is needed , IF you can get a small flow out of the TEE ??
Edited by steve(ill) - 02 Nov 2024 at 6:28pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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PaulB
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Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 6:48pm |
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A D14 engine should have more that 15 PSI if it has just been rebuilt. On the timing cover there is a small square thrust cover held on with 4 bolts. Remove that and see that you have all the parts there that should be there. Also the pressure ball may not be seating in the camshaft properly (dirt maybe or a rust spot on the ball). I'm seeing that the shop that did you engine was not familiar with the quirks of an Allis Chalmers 149 engine
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 02 Nov 2024 at 7:12pm |
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your right Paul... i thought he was talking about a B-C motor... I reread the post and see it is D14.... That would have a little more pressure than the smaller engine. ..... but i would say 15 psi at idle is OK ... he needs to look for OTHER problems as you said.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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