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D-14 & D-15 parts swapping.

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Dave (Mid-MI) View Drop Down
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Location: Hemlock, MI
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave (Mid-MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: D-14 & D-15 parts swapping.
    Posted: 07 Feb 2011 at 2:08pm
Got a call from a friend last night. He has his grandfather's D-14 with loader and manual steering. Engine is very worn; not much power and lots of oil use. He has a line on a D-15 series II that supposedly runs good, won't stay in second or third gear, rear rims shot, and has power steering. He would like to put the D-15 engine and power steering in his D-14. I told him that I believe that the engine would bolt in, but that it runs faster than stock, so the tach wouldn't read correctly. Also D-15 is 12 volt and his 14 is 6 volt, so he would have to make some changes. Since the frame is wider on the D-15, the power steering probably couldn't be swapped. What do you guys think? TIA. dave
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GregLawlerMinn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GregLawlerMinn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2011 at 2:46pm
Dave
I like my D15SII with PS and all hydraulic loader; great combo.
 
I think the D14 tranny is the same as the D15. Maybe better to bolt up the rear of the D14 to the front of the D15 and move the loader to the D15?
 
Engine rebuild kits for the D14 (149 CI) engine are readily available; may be less hassle to rebuild the D14 engine.
What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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Larry Miller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Larry Miller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2011 at 3:02pm
The 15 PS will go in the 14. You will have to cut a notch in the side rail to make room for a nut on the side of the PS unit however.
I used to be young and stupid, now I am not young anymore.
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EdIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EdIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2011 at 5:43pm
If you used a flat head or hex socket plug, it wouldn't be necessary to notch the frame rail.  Makes a much nicer looking job.  FWIW    Ed
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Chalmersbob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chalmersbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2011 at 9:25pm
The entire frame from the torque tube to the front gear box are 1 1/2" wide on the D15 then the D14. This includes the torque tube. Also on the D14 the side rails bolt on with 1/2" bolts and on the D15 they used 5/8" bolts at the torque tube. The 160 engine should bolt up ok. If you remove the plate where the PS ram goes into the gear box and check if the second gear ( idler) is there. According to the parts book, they used one gear box for PS and a different one for non-PS. However, I talked to someone at a show who said he put PS on a non-PS D14 by just adding the parts to the gear box. He said the idler gear (228640) was in it.  I don't see any serial # breaks in the parts books on a change to the gear box. Bob
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Calvin Schmidt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Calvin Schmidt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2011 at 5:56am
Greg has the right idea. I have a D-14 transmission and rear end in a D-15 diesel.
It bolted up and works with no problems. I think that this is your simplest solution.
 
Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed
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