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ACinSC 
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Joined: 16 Dec 2015
Location: South Carolina
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 Posted: 30 Apr 2020 at 6:16am |
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Yeah thanks Jay . Have the fender and platform out of way. Should pull the final drive soon . Hope I can see what's going on .
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 30 Apr 2020 at 8:01am |
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I see absolutely no need to remove the whole axle/final drive assembly. If there is a bearing out on the axle shaft, replace it right where it hangs. If the axle mounting surface isn't true, maybe the axle shaft is bent ??? Starting the tractor with the wheel off and spinning the axle in low gear (opposite tire BLOCKED so tractor cannot move) should give an eagle eye an idea if things are bent or not. There must have been a failure earlier in its life and maybe the inside bearing area of the axle shaft is bent from heat ??
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ACinSC
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Location: South Carolina
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Posted: 30 Apr 2020 at 9:20am |
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Don't like the idea of replacing bearings and races laying on my back under the final drive housing . All I lack to pull it is a shop crane that I can borrow . I do wonder if the axle is bent ? Thanks !!
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 30 Apr 2020 at 9:38am |
 Here's my D14 drawing... when I replaced my bearing , I whacked off #31, removed #30 and I 'think' the shaft came out. probably removed the #24 'pan' into a kittylitter bucket( lotsa oil + NO drain plug...). Mind you this was 20 years ago. I KNOW I did NOT remove the final drive ! Something that big,heavy and messy...I'd remember. I did replace #16, seal, #17 brg cone, but not #18 brg cup. Be carefull with teh bullgear.. dang thing is heavy,oily and WILL fall to ground PDQ !! Once oil is mostly drained, use solid wood block and 'crib it up' so it don't surprise you !! Ask anything, I'll try to jog my memory for any other tips... Jay
As long as the brakes are NOT oily, NO need to remove the complete final drive.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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jaybmiller
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Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 30 Apr 2020 at 9:42am |
re: laying on my back under the final drive housing
I didn't do that. I had solid wood blocks ( a tower of 8by8 pine) securely under the final drive wher ethe fender is attached. I sat on a small stool. It was OK for me even with L3-L4-L5 'problems'. If I have to go on my back, off come the bifocals...useless upside down, that's why I KNOW I wasn't 'laying down on the job'...
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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ACinSC
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Location: South Carolina
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Posted: 30 Apr 2020 at 10:00am |
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Thanks Jay . I wanna see what the brake shoes look like anyway . Might as well pull the final drive while I'm this close .
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 30 Apr 2020 at 10:04am |
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if the seal is leaky, let me know, I've got two spares National make here.....somewhere...
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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ACinSC
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Location: South Carolina
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Posted: 30 Apr 2020 at 3:35pm |
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Thanks Jay . I'm gonna call Brenda when I find out what all I need .
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jaybmiller
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Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 30 Apr 2020 at 5:52pm |
finally found the seals... National number is 471765. They're about 1/4" thick, and the originals were 1/2" thick and no longer available,so I was told. These are #14 in the 'differential' drawing in the parts book, page 157. They go in #1, carrier bearing unit. I put 2 of the new ones in to replace the original. They fit fine and a 2nd seal on 'fresh' shaft is more protection for $5. I don't know why the shims have extra holes in them but they go at '12 oclock'. if you don't have the drawings, let me know, I can copy/email them to you. Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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WeisAC2
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Joined: 02 Feb 2017
Location: Aiken SC
Points: 112
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Posted: 30 Apr 2020 at 5:53pm |
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ACinSC
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Posted: 30 Apr 2020 at 6:18pm |
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Fav son came through with pics again . Shoes don't look too bad . Thanks
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 30 Apr 2020 at 7:57pm |
hek I'm impressed the brake drum came off !!! That's a HUGE plus....
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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ACinSC
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Location: South Carolina
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Posted: 01 May 2020 at 5:11am |
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Yeah Jay , fav son said that didn't happen last time . Thanks !
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 01 May 2020 at 7:53am |
Thanks to you and your son for documenting the work with some good pictures. Having never been into one of these it helps to understand the brake systems. Brake shoes look good to me.
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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WeisAC2
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Posted: 01 May 2020 at 9:37am |
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ACinSC
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Posted: 01 May 2020 at 10:44am |
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Bull gear has a chipped tooth . Only thing I see wrong with the final drive . May just change the shoes and differental seal while I'm in here . Anything else I should do ? Thanks !!
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 01 May 2020 at 10:55am |
Any 'extra' steel in the pan ? A chunk 'tooth shaped', maybe some roller bearing sized metal ?? That bull gear is HEAVY BTW, so be careful....
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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ACinSC
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Location: South Carolina
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Posted: 01 May 2020 at 12:10pm |
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Don't see any metal in the pan but I pulled and cleaned the bull gear pans not long after I got this tractor . Can't remember finding anything then . My memory ain't too good tho . Thanks !
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ACinSC
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Posted: 01 May 2020 at 3:41pm |
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Hey Jay , I finally got on the right page and now I see that seal . Sure doesn't look the picture I have . Thanks !
Edited by ACinSC - 01 May 2020 at 3:56pm
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 01 May 2020 at 4:17pm |
Ac, Maybe I missed it but have you determined why this has the tire tilting problem? Sounds like your inspection has not found the issue? Has to be something???? Not trying to make more work for you. But I think I would take the bull gear out and inspect the bearings and shaft. You have it in the very best position to do that! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 01 May 2020 at 4:36pm |
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Yeah Chris I never did find out why the tire/wheel isn't always plumb . Like the good Dr said the axle may be bent . Everything turns and looks and sounds ok to me . I may do the brakes and diff o-ring and seal and let it ride . Not like I'm farming , only use this tractor to harrow with a few times a year . Thanks !!
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TimNearFortWorth
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Posted: 02 May 2020 at 7:53am |
Good opportunity to drill the pans on the inside down low and have a thread-o-let installed. Any D-Series I get into the pans of, do every one of em' for future draining after removing my first pans years ago. Sometimes find them hard to get a good seal if someone else has been in there and got rough with them and distorted the flange mating surfaces. Sure makes it easy to drop fluids every few years on units used most. Works good for me and always wondered why A-C did not provide a drain plug on those pans originally.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 02 May 2020 at 8:00am |
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Drain plugs were never provided for three reasons: #1. a plug protruding from the bottom always has a chance of being hit by something and breaking off. #2. Cost. It adds to the build cost of the tractor. #3. Inspection. It forces the Tech to visually look at what is in the oil pan to determine if there is excess wear going on and can take care of it before it gets worse. It's the same reason most automatic transmissions on cars and pickups don't have drain plugs. They also have a 4th reason....there is a filter inside that needs to be serviced.
Continuing to use that toothless bull gear is a bad idea.
Edited by DrAllis - 02 May 2020 at 8:01am
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TimNearFortWorth
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Posted: 02 May 2020 at 8:04am |
Makes sense Doc but I have mine welded onto the side, as low as I can situate them squarely. Would not work on the very bottom but I have had no issues with them mounted down low on the inside.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 02 May 2020 at 8:43am |
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Thanks Tim and Dr Allis .
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