Cold Cranking Amps

Have a  Aggo Allis 5670. Replaced the battery with a non OEM battery. Has 850 CCA. Will not turn over fast enough to start in cold, below 25 degree, weather. Does anyone know how many amps are needed? (4 cyl. diesel)

With a single 850 CCA battery I can start a DT 466 truck engine , the Perkins in my 715B , the 2-71 in HD5,  but all of them might need a shot of either to aid in starting much below 25F. in fact the Perkins at 30 needs a shot. On my old 785 NH skid the Perkins in that would start down to 0 without either using a single 850 CCA battery.

Steve in NJ wrote: I would think your 850 CCA Battery would be boarderline for the application. If the engine has a block heater and it's plugged in on the wicked cold nights, that 850 still may stumble a bit getting the engine turned over. It may get the job done with the heater helping, but still on the low amp side. Usually, if you can supply a 1000 CCA power supply, you'll have much more success in turning over a Diesel in the low low temps. Its much easier on the starter motor also.  HTH Steve@B&B

I don't have a block heater. I do have the ether button for manual injection, but when the temp drops, the battery will only turn over to slow to fire. Guess I'll look for a 1000 or 1100.   thanks

cold cranking amps is the amperage rating the battery can deliver for 30 seconds at 0 degrees f . on thick diesel probably not enough.

What oil are you using??

You might consider Mobil 1 5w-40 diesel oil.  If you are using a 15w-40, the 5w-40 will make a big difference in cranking speed and no difference at operating temp.

The 5670 is an air cooled engine. The manual talks about an optional heater. Something about a air chamber heater. Don't know much about it. Sounds like it would not warm the oil and cause it to spin easier. I do have the glow plugs, but again with a wimpy battery, by the time they are warm the battery is spent.

First off, have a 5660, had a 5680, and I know exactly what you are talking about.  The heater, in the intake manifold, is electric and sprays diesel fuel on the heater element, you have to wait till the light goes out on the dash, by this time you have one shot to get it going or else no more battery. BTDTB.  The original battery is like 1250 CCA, only available from AGCO or SAMI, I priced one and they wanted more than $300 for it.  Instead I put on a 1000CCA battery out of my Freighliner for the time being,  it did not fit under the cover behind the seat on the 5660 too well so instead I put two 750 CCA batteries that did fit under the cover with one on a mount on top of the roll bar support.  When they went I went back to one truck battery (same as the Freighliner one I originally tried) and have not had a problem since.  In the between time though I had put new injector tips on and when we dynoed it it only put out 32 hp after an adjustment to the governor it has never failed to start, funny thing is it never ran the way it does now when it was new, always started hard but now it is a new tractor, it will smoke when you get after it and it has 55 hp on the dyno.  Wish we had put it on the dyno before we bought it, I am sure it would have had no more than 35hp new.

Edited by Amos - 23 Jan 2012 at 4:37pm

Rawleigh wrote: As said first check your cables and clamps.  Bigger really is better in battery cables for diesels.  try putting a big set of jumper cables from battery to starter to rule out voltage drop from bad cables.

Clamps are good and clean. I'll try the jumper cable.

BobHnwO wrote: Leaving a trickle charger on the battery will increase cranking power a bunch!

Will end up doing that, but it is a nuisance to take off the side cover to get to the battery. I wonder if attaching some cable extensions and bringing them outside of the cover would solve the problem. That way you could hook up a charger without taking off the cover.

  

"Cranking Amps" are measured at 32 degrees. "Cold Cranking Amps" are measured at 0 degrees.