Coil

You will have better ignition with a 6 volt coil on a 6 volt tractor.

Gas should gravity flow if the tank is near full when you have to park it on a hill. Might be worth turning the tractor direction to be sure gravity will flow the fuel. If you have added an inline fuel filter it may be restricting the flow because most of those filters are designed for use with a fuel pump, not the very low pressure of gravity.

Gerald J.

Early D14s were originally 6 volt (until 1959).  Sounds like yours was probably converted to 12 volt at some point before you got it. 
That power booster gauge (Called traction booster) hooks up to a small steel line which leads to a small box about a foot away that is mounted on top of the torque tube.  Most of those gauges no longer work now and they don't really tell you anything when they do work.
Hard starting when facing uphill can also be caused by the tank being low on gas. Chances are it's that inline filter which is causing the problem.  Put a fuel bowl strainer on at the bottom of the gas tank instead.

See what kinda' Battery is in that Tractor. 3 cells, its a 6V Battery. 6 cells its a 12V Battery. If its still 6V, get yourself a new 6V coil and install it. If its flipped to 12V, make sure you get the correct 3.0 Ohm coil for the 4 cylinder on 12Vs. You need 2.7-3.3 Ohms of resistance in the ignition circuit for a 4 cylinder on 12V's, so a 3.0 Ohm coil sticks you smack dab in the center. We have either coil in stock on our website if interested. You usually won't find a "hot" coil for 6V's, but there are hot coils out there in the aftermarket for 12V coils. Not really necessary for a Tractor unless your using it in pulling competition or running a higher compression engine due to some engine work. If you move to an electronic ignition, you can run the optional hotter coil if you wish, even though the E.I. is designed for the OEM coil and system. That is totally up to the individual.. HTH
Steve@B&B

I'd measure across the coil studs. If you measure about 3 ohms, it's a true 12 volt coil. If you measure about half of that it's a 6 volt coil. In the transition between 6 and 12 volts many coils were labeled as 12 volts, but they were meant to be used with a ballast resistor. Those coils werte really designed as 6 volt coils.

For very high speed engines (like Nascar race cars running V-8s at 10,000 RPM) a low voltage coil with a ballast resistor works better. The lower inductance of the low voltage coil builds current faster and when supplied through a resistor builds current even faster than the coil alone. Running one coil on a V-8 engine at 10,000 RPM plus needs that. And some Chrysler street cars ran 3 volt coils with resistors in the 6 volt days. Tractor engines don't run nearly that fast, more often in the 6 volt, a 4 cylinder engine topping out at 2000 or 2250 RPM and so a plain 6 volt coil with a 6 volt battery or a 12 volt coil with a 12 volt battery.

My 12 volt JD 4020 uses a 6 volt coil with a resistor. Over the time period that model was built, the resistor changed at least a couple times and mine is wired differently. The starter solenoid has an auxiliary contact that is wired direct to the coil and puts full battery voltage on the coil while cranking for better starting. The long skinny battery JD used has more voltage drop than other battery designs while cranking. In one version there was a resistor inside the ignition/start switch. In mine the ignition switch didn't start, a separate push button powers the starter solenoid and the resistor was a length of insulated iron or resistance wire hidden in the harness. Mine was modified to use a ceramic resistor made for the purpose mounted near the coil. I know Steve doesn't like those resistors but I haven't had any trouble with that resistor, my trouble was with the Scotch Tap used to connect the wire to the ignition switch end of the old resistance wire that went open while I was putting up hay. I hot wired the coil with a spare wire not switched and finished the job. Then I made a Y for spade lugs and took the blasted Scotch Tap out (and put it in the garbage) and haven't had an ignition problem since.

The coil polarity needs to match the battery polarity along with the battery voltage.

Gerald J.

Folks-

Edited by brews4me - 15 Nov 2016 at 11:21am

Yes that is a delco spring clip distributor.   Someone painted over the delco name plate on the right hand side in your picture.

It is easy to size the picture. When using the fancier reply that includes the picture option, just enter width 640 and height 480 at the lower left options fields.

Gerald J.

Ok, i'll give it a try, thanks so much!!!!

Edited by brews4me - 15 Nov 2016 at 4:07pm

re: the coil....
while it says 12v it might acually be a '3 ohm' coil,so really a 6 volt coil...
when installed in a 12v system, it'd need a 3 ohm 'ballast resistor' , that would allow 4 amps of current..

be nice is 'Steve' could look up what the heck a '112' coil is ! Google didn't help me,sigh..

Jay

my head hurts i'm learning so much here !

Gen, i took this pict last week also

Okay, the 1100025 is the higher amp 6V unit.  Max amps is 30-35 @ full field. Like I mentioned, I'd pull it off and take down to your local rebuilder if you have one and have him check it out. It also would be good to bring the VR with you also. So far you're six volts except for the coil. Pick yourself up a 6V coil. You still need to ID the VR yet.
Steve@B&B 

The VR will probably be spring due to usually lots of snow and weather, but will try to run down if possible to identify.

ok, found a guy in Denver that will checkout VR and generator, 68$ plus parts.