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Freewheeling 
Bronze Level
Joined: 05 Nov 2017
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 116
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 Topic: Clutch problem
Posted: 12 Sep 2024 at 11:38pm |
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I resurfaced and balanced the flywheel on my IB, installed a new clutch disk, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. The bearing yoke and tube are in good shape and lubed. The pressure plate fingers are adjusted to 1/4". The pedal rod is adjusted to just bottom on the stop when engaged. However, even through the fingers are depressed, the pressure plate continues to spin. Any ideas before I split this critter again?
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WF owner
Orange Level
Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Bombay NY
Points: 4588
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Posted: 13 Sep 2024 at 5:10am |
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Is the clutch disc in backwards? It's very easy to do that (from experience).
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Jim.ME
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Joined: 19 Nov 2016
Location: Maine
Points: 950
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Posted: 13 Sep 2024 at 7:12am |
The pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel, it spins when the engine is running. Pushing the clutch pedal does not stop the pressure plate.
When the throwout bearing pushes the pressure plate fingers, the pressure plate is supposed to release the clamping force on the clutch disc. The clutch disc, between the pressure plate and flywheel, is what is supposed to stop spinning
If the clutch is not disengaging the clutch disc may have been installed backwards, as has been posted. Not an uncommon happening.
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Freewheeling
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Joined: 05 Nov 2017
Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: 13 Sep 2024 at 7:57am |
Well duh, what was I thinking. Of course its bolted to the flywheel. Brain doesn't engage sometimes when I'm pissed. Can't believe i put the disk in backwards but it's been one of those weeks. I'll find out this morning.
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Freewheeling
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Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: 13 Sep 2024 at 11:40am |
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The disk was installed correctly. Everything looked good. I remembered seeing a spec that called for 1 13/16 between the face of the disk and the contact point on the fingers. Not even close. With the adjustment screws all the way I get 1 3/8. That would explain why I'm not getting separation.
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Freewheeling
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Joined: 05 Nov 2017
Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: 13 Sep 2024 at 10:34pm |
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I called Kentucky Clutch and they said I should add a washer under each pressure plate bolt or replace the finger bolts with longer ones. Moral of the story - Don't just adjust the fingers to 1/4". Verify that the initial setting on your reman pressure plate is correct.
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Eric B
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Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 920
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Posted: 14 Sep 2024 at 12:42am |
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To be able to work in the access hole for clutch adjustment is very tricky to say the least. I have adjusted the clutch on several and I'm not really sure where you are making the 1/4" measurement? When you have good adjustment you only have a few thousands of an inch between the fingers and the throw out bearing. Please share your success story once you get the clutch working right, thanks.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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PaulB
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
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Posted: 14 Sep 2024 at 6:42am |
In all the years I've pulled CA tractors, I've done a lot of engine switching. I found that matching the distance from the rear of the engine block to the throwout finger tips resulted in better clutch function than measuring the distance to the tips from the driving disc. This would be because of the variables involved: resurface flywheel, resurfaced driving member in the pressure plate and varying driving discs thicknesses. To this end, I made a jig for adjusting the fingers, it make a one time installation.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Alvin M
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Joined: 24 Jun 2018
Location: PA
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Posted: 14 Sep 2024 at 7:52am |
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Make sure the bushing in the flywheel is lubed good if not the shaft will turn
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Freewheeling
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Joined: 05 Nov 2017
Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: 14 Sep 2024 at 10:00am |
The 1/4" is the space between the throwout bearing and the contact point on the fingers, I have a 1/4" square bar bent to allow it to fit through the hole. My I&T shop manual says to just adjust the fingers to 1/4" with each of the 3 being within .010 of each other. (Good luck with that.) Then the clutch rod to where it has 3 threads showing. Since the rod that was in mine was a cobbled job, that wasn't reliable.
My Allis Chalmers service manual says to adjust the fingers to 1 13/16 from the clutch disk to the contact point and then adjust the clutch pedal to get the 1/4 ". It states there are usually 1-2 threads showing and to make sure the pedal hts the stop on the torque tube. The trick with getting an accurate 1 13/16" is to place the clutch disk where there is not a spring under the finger.
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Freewheeling
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Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: 14 Sep 2024 at 10:02am |
You should market this! 
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Tracy Martin TN
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gallatin,TN
Points: 10605
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Posted: Yesterday at 6:42pm |
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I have a jig similar to Paul's. I also have a fixture to set the clearance between fingers and throw out bearing while tractor is split, no guess work. HTH Tracy
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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HudCo
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Joined: 29 Jan 2013
Location: Plymouth Utah
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Posted: Yesterday at 8:25pm |
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the wick in the end of the crankshaft didnt get pulled out to far that keep it spinning
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Freewheeling
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Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Yesterday at 8:59pm |
Nope. I installed an oilite bushing instead of a wick.
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Freewheeling
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Posted: Yesterday at 9:08pm |
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What's the distance from the block to the finger?
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